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How to actually make your car faster

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I bought a Audi 3.0TDI to do this..

They want 5400 for it. Just waiting for ZF Transmission booking to do my oil change on gearbox before I go for it.
BTW in case anyone wondering they have already assessed my gearbox and as the oil is in good shape they can do a oil change and the gearbox won't slip.
 
This is why I want a Chev Lumina SS with the 6.2L engine. Take some really basic add one, some knowledge and you have a major performance car.

 
... RGB ...??? Oh, no wait...

On a serious note though...
I always thought you add a Ferrari dipstick and a turbo sticker and you are sorted. :p
 
I bought a Audi 3.0TDI to do this..

They want 5400 for it. Just waiting for ZF Transmission booking to do my oil change on gearbox before I go for it.
BTW in case anyone wondering they have already assessed my gearbox and as the oil is in good shape they can do a oil change and the gearbox won't slip.

I did a track day event in an A4 3.0TDI and when I saw it was a diesel firstly and also an automatic I was like this is going to SUUUUUUCCCCKKKKKKK.

Fucking hell was I wrong, that motor is pure powerhouse and the automatic didn't even bother me one bit because if I needed to concentrate on that as well I probably would have had an off or two.

But half way through the day that thing was drifting around every corner.

Only bad thing is that by the day's end the brakes were cooked.
 
I did a track day event in an A4 3.0TDI and when I saw it was a diesel firstly and also an automatic I was like this is going to SUUUUUUCCCCKKKKKKK.

Fucking hell was I wrong, that motor is pure powerhouse and the automatic didn't even bother me one bit because if I needed to concentrate on that as well I probably would have had an off or two.

But half way through the day that thing was drifting around every corner.

Only bad thing is that by the day's end the brakes were cooked.
I paid 89k for mine I redid the brakes, Glow plugs, and fuel pump(unnecessary due to poor diagnosis of starting issue turns out the aftermarket bluetooth at fault). If you have a older Audi you must have some form of VAGCOM.
No monthly installments R400 pm insurance and the Quattro 4wd handling is amazing..
 
So I saw a video this morning on how to make your old car less shit.

Basically, if you have an old car and it's using oil and you need to prevent wear and reduce oil consumption, put in a higher viscosity oil that contain zinc.

Eg instead of the usual 10W-40 oil, put in a 10W-60 with a zinc additive. That means that at operating temperature, the oil will be heavier and the zinc will 'seal' up any small metal grooves to reduce the oil going through to the exhaust.

You can find oil additives that you can just add to your current oil which will resolve the problem - they often have a viscosity of 110 which is diluted with the normal oil.

Racing oils almost always have zinc to protect the engine from metal on metal wear - Hoovie destroyed his LS1 engine by not using an oil with zinc in it. Basically, the oil sloshed to the side around a corner and the pistons then had to deal with zero oil pressure at high RPM and high temperatures (it's why racing cars use dry sumps).

In addition, higher viscosity oils are better when the engines are running hot as they don't burn off as easily and can absorb a lot more heat (you can see this effect when you put oil in a pan and heat the pan up too much, the oil starts to burn off). The energy required to turn the oil from a 10 from cold to 60 at full temperature requires more heat than a normal 10W-40. If you live in Skukuza, you may want a higher viscosity oil.

Warning: you can't use all 60 weight oils with a VVTi engine and you can't add zinc to an engine with a catalytic converter, the platinum reacts with the zinc and you end up with a stuffed up exhaust that's all clogged.

Edit: I'd probably add Liqui-Moly Cera Tec to an engines oil to stop wear. R500 for one bottle. Reviews are good but it's expensive.

I use the MOS2 based oil by Liqui-Moly as that has basic engine protection built in. You can buy the additive for R260 and just add it to your normal oil
 
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So I saw a video this morning on how to make your old car less shit.

Basically, if you have an old car and it's using oil and you need to prevent wear and reduce oil consumption, put in a higher viscosity oil that contain zinc.

Eg instead of the usual 10W-40 oil, put in a 10W-60 with a zinc additive. That means that at operating temperature, the oil will be heavier and the zinc will 'seal' up any small metal grooves to reduce the oil going through to the exhaust.

You can find oil additives that you can just add to your current oil which will resolve the problem - they often have a viscosity of 110 which is diluted with the normal oil.

Racing oils almost always have zinc to protect the engine from metal on metal wear - Hoovie destroyed his LS1 engine by not using an oil with zinc in it. Basically, the oil sloshed to the side around a corner and the pistons then had to deal with zero oil pressure at high RPM and high temperatures (it's why racing cars use dry sumps).

In addition, higher viscosity oils are better when the engines are running hot as they don't burn off as easily and can absorb a lot more heat (you can see this effect when you put oil in a pan and heat the pan up too much, the oil starts to burn off). The energy required to turn the oil from a 10 from cold to 60 at full temperature requires more heat than a normal 10W-40. If you live in Skukuza, you may want a higher viscosity oil.

Warning: you can't use all 60 weight oils with a VVTi engine and you can't add zinc to an engine with a catalytic converter, the platinum reacts with the zinc and you end up with a stuffed up exhaust that's all clogged.

Edit: I'd probably add Liqui-Moly Cera Tec to an engines oil to stop wear. R500 for one bottle. Reviews are good but it's expensive.

I use the MOS2 based oil by Liqui-Moly as that has basic engine protection built in. You can buy the additive for R260 and just add it to your normal oil

Pretty much what any of those "for higher mileage vehicles" oils do.

So just buy those.



****

Catalytic converter will anyway be in it's chops on a higher mileage car already so kind of irrelevant. And just about every car since 2000 will have a catalytic converter because it was built to run Unleaded.

But seriously rather than do your own hack just buy the oil for the purpose.

As for additives...that's a bit of a debate.

*

I'm also of the opinion you can't "dilute" oils to achieve a different viscocity, but I wouldn't call that an expert opinion just a logical one. But it kind of depends what was in the car to begin with and if you know that for sure. If it was multigrade you can probably do fine.

Best to generally drain it and only top up with the same oil that went in there in the first place.

The race car with a dry sump is a fine example but hardly applies to just about anyone driving on the roads and shouldn't be used as evidence to further this case. Racing oild were designed for racing cars and therefore probably will do more harm than good to your normal road going car for the very reason that they aren't running dry sumps and aren't operating at peak temperatures all day every day.
 
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I wouldn’t touch a high mileage oil - the oil comes with additives to prevent oil leaks.

The additives cause any oil pipes to swell up and “seal”. It’s fine if you only use that oil but if you resort to a normal oil, your oil pipes then shrink back down and that can cause more leaks.

SauRoN
Source: High Mileage Oil: A Practical Guide

Trust me, I used high mileage oil in my Camry and after all was said and done, they found 8 leaks.

I’d always stick to a good, regular oil that doesn’t interfere with pipes. My car has ~217 000 km and only now has started using a bit of oil.
 
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That was an engine designed for a Passat that they just shoehorned into a Polo. Overkill. Those things shoot off.

I think VW just didn’t want to have to spend the money on designing a new engine so they just used that one for the Polo.

If recall, it’s actual displacement was something like ~2.3L? Mental for such a small car.

Edit: I am wrong about the displacement, it was a 1.9, but it still had the same engine as the Passat. 240nm, 77kw for the Polo, higher for the Passat with one engine specced at 310.
You get the 6 speed ones with 96kw, same as the a4 1.9tdi . Can get 20km/l easily
 
Why just adding power doesn't make your car faster in a circuit race


Adding 60 BHP power to a car and then racing the stock and modded car will make the modded car faster.

Here they are comparing two very different cars. The newer nismos are factory modded and way better than the older car.
 
So I saw a video this morning on how to make your old car less shit.

Basically, if you have an old car and it's using oil and you need to prevent wear and reduce oil consumption, put in a higher viscosity oil that contain zinc.

Eg instead of the usual 10W-40 oil, put in a 10W-60 with a zinc additive. That means that at operating temperature, the oil will be heavier and the zinc will 'seal' up any small metal grooves to reduce the oil going through to the exhaust.

You can find oil additives that you can just add to your current oil which will resolve the problem - they often have a viscosity of 110 which is diluted with the normal oil.

Racing oils almost always have zinc to protect the engine from metal on metal wear - Hoovie destroyed his LS1 engine by not using an oil with zinc in it. Basically, the oil sloshed to the side around a corner and the pistons then had to deal with zero oil pressure at high RPM and high temperatures (it's why racing cars use dry sumps).

In addition, higher viscosity oils are better when the engines are running hot as they don't burn off as easily and can absorb a lot more heat (you can see this effect when you put oil in a pan and heat the pan up too much, the oil starts to burn off). The energy required to turn the oil from a 10 from cold to 60 at full temperature requires more heat than a normal 10W-40. If you live in Skukuza, you may want a higher viscosity oil.

Warning: you can't use all 60 weight oils with a VVTi engine and you can't add zinc to an engine with a catalytic converter, the platinum reacts with the zinc and you end up with a stuffed up exhaust that's all clogged.

Edit: I'd probably add Liqui-Moly Cera Tec to an engines oil to stop wear. R500 for one bottle. Reviews are good but it's expensive.

I use the MOS2 based oil by Liqui-Moly as that has basic engine protection built in. You can buy the additive for R260 and just add it to your normal oil

Its a better idea to cure the actual problem. Start using Shell Helix so that it can clean out the oil control ring so that it can do its job :)
 


So how to make your car faster........
Add bits from sti(turbo. Injectors fuel pump)
Add huge intercooler
Change intake
Downpipe
Ewg
Change exhaust
Add e50
Remap
Launch controll(make it spit flames) :D

Yes i did loose, against a gc8, ut changed gap from car lentghs to bumper lenth :p
 


So how to make your car faster........
Add bits from sti(turbo. Injectors fuel pump)
Add huge intercooler
Change intake
Downpipe
Ewg
Change exhaust
Add e50
Remap
Launch controll(make it spit flames) :D

Yes i did loose, against a gc8, ut changed gap from car lentghs to bumper lenth :p

Nah dude, completely wrong. Just chop 2 inches from your springs of your car to make it look like a racing car and BAM! Racer stance = racer car.

Also, don’t forget to fit stretched wheels, And get a high end exhaust for your 1300cc to make it gain 400kw at the wheels.
 
Nah dude, completely wrong. Just chop 2 inches from your springs of your car to make it look like a racing car and BAM! Racer stance = racer car.

Also, don’t forget to fit stretched wheels, And get a high end exhaust for your 1300cc to make it gain 400kw at the wheels.
The 400kw only works on hondas here at the coast.
 
Nah dude, completely wrong. Just chop 2 inches from your springs of your car to make it look like a racing car and BAM! Racer stance = racer car.

Also, don’t forget to fit stretched wheels, And get a high end exhaust for your 1300cc to make it gain 400kw at the wheels.
We have those cars at the coast, they have to do 2km/h over any sort of speed bump otherwise i think it will take off into the stratosphere. The guys who drive them are so cool i want to be just like them when i grow up. Everytime i look at my car i think how sensible it looks and drive it so sensibly, but everytime i look at the angle grinder and those springs on my car, i weep at the 400kw i am losing
 
My neighbours kid is such a ricer.

Shitty 1.6 Polo, freeflow exhaust that sounds like far cannon, massive sound system and a reversed snap back to add to the douche effect.
His mates are worse. A Nissan sentra with the worst exhaust job I have ever heard. All get drunk and then drive home. The mother doesn't bat an eyelid.

They used to play their music till 3am until I complained 5 times. Tried to beat me up. The usual.
 
My neighbours kid is such a ricer.

Shitty 1.6 Polo, freeflow exhaust that sounds like far cannon, massive sound system and a reversed snap back to add to the douche effect.
His mates are worse. A Nissan sentra with the worst exhaust job I have ever heard. All get drunk and then drive home. The mother doesn't bat an eyelid.

They used to play their music till 3am until I complained 5 times. Tried to beat me up. The usual.
Wait till they sleap, then have a huge party :p my neighbors use to do the same, party till 4am, did not find it funny when i used launchcontroll at 7am, but stopped playing music till 4am :D
 

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