I bought one of these for a friend of mine a while back. he has to use glue on the bed to get it to stick and print at 70% Speed to get a decent result..
Hang in there man,. it can be frustrating but well worth it when you get it tweaked!
Check this 20 hour print of his from his i3 Mini View attachment 38206
@Reavs , what slicing software do you use ? What is your support settings ?
Getting the supports just right take some practice with the settings. Make it to strong, and you cant remove it or your model end up ugly where the supports was. Make it too weak and you can find yourself while the nozzle is moving it bumps the supports and it gets stuck to the nozzle or the supports break and the printer just prints in the air with filament oozing everywhere ruining the whole print.
If you don't mind not having that mirror smooth finish at the bottom, then use rafts. I come to love them as you lay down the raft it sticks very well and if you have very small parts or supports it stik great to the raft. Only minor problem is removing it from the raft once done but I never had a issue. Also with rafts you can get away with a somewhat off leveled bed. Very forgiving.
So maybe if you calibrate the printer, based on the measurements, - you can print lego that fits well.
Rafts are the devil incarnate. With the build surfaces we have these days (and PLA) there is zero reason to waste the time and filament. You bed isn't correctly levelled most likely. Or if you're struggling with the buildtak, stick a piece of glass and use hairspray.Lesson learnt - will print with rafts only from now.
I'm also thinking about learning to model in 3d so I can print my own designs for projects / fixes around the house etc (don't have the printer yet though). What application are you looking into? Fusion 3D seems to be the most popular, and it's free, so I was thinking of going that route.So I’ve decided I want to model stuff in 3D app and print with mah printer… I was holding a ruler behind stuff and trying to “Eyeball” the measurement… It felt kek. I asked my dad if I could lend his vernier… but it was at his work… so I thought “I’m sure I could print one”
Here is the result:
View attachment 43306
View attachment 43307
You turn the knob at the back to open and close the jaws.
View attachment 43308
It’s not 100% accurate… but it’s pretty close… close enough for what I’ll be modeling. It’s less that 1mm out… so by the time it gets to 70mm it’s 1mm out by that point…
View attachment 43309
could use some cleanup here and there… But I still need to buy my wife a dremel that I’ll keep
Welcome to the club Worth getting into Fusion360 too while you are at itSo.. I'm almost a 3D printer owner....
Who else on here is into 3D printing?
Nice to see another Morgan owner
I'm using fusion 360. I've partially modelled a part of the sun visor in the car that broke and I have a piece of a drone I need to model and print.I'm also thinking about learning to model in 3d so I can print my own designs for projects / fixes around the house etc (don't have the printer yet though). What application are you looking into? Fusion 3D seems to be the most popular, and it's free, so I was thinking of going that route.
Re the vernier caliper, Makro stocks a plastic one for < R100 that is good to 0.01mm if you use it carefully.
The printed one looks nifty, but won't do fractions of a mm.
Edit: Fusion 360
one advantage of the cheapo verniers, compared to the printed one, is that you can measure depth with them, but the printed one seems to be able to do only inside and outside measurements<snipped>
Re the vernier caliper, Makro stocks a plastic one for < R100 that is good to 0.01mm if you use it carefully.
The printed one looks nifty, but won't do fractions of a mm.
@0:30 Take your time with that warm up,you might hurt yourself next timeHey people, new here!
I'm the dude in the DIYElectronics videos like this one
Rafts are the devil incarnate. With the build surfaces we have these days (and PLA) there is zero reason to waste the time and filament. You bed isn't correctly levelled most likely. Or if you're struggling with the buildtak, stick a piece of glass and use hairspray.
Those v slot wheels are basically plastic shells with bearings inside. Radial bearings like this won't cause a specific problems like you're describing ( I think) because they all rotate multiple times over the length of the bed. So if it was somehow a bad spot in the bearings then you'd feel that spot probably 10 times over the y.
I'd suggest narrowing it down by first removing the belt and seeing if the problem is still there.
FWIW I'm fairly sure the bearing inside the V wheel is a 625zz.
Moving the bed all the way back, and then slowly forward I can feel the spot about 3 - 4 times. Maybe there is an issue with one of the wheels ?[/QU