3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

[Portside]

We've all been in a similar situation, it will come right with practice.

 

[Reavs]

I bought one of these for a friend of mine a while back. he has to use glue on the bed to get it to stick and print at 70% Speed to get a decent result..
Hang in there man,. it can be frustrating but well worth it when you get it tweaked!
Check this 20 hour print of his from his i3 Mini View attachment 38206

Oh wow, that look really good. Would love to try something like that with wood pla later on. The missus already has a request for a baby Groot. Thanks for the tips. I figured there was a reason for a tube of glue in the accessory pack.

 

[BLaaR]

@Reavs , what slicing software do you use ? What is your support settings ?

Getting the supports just right take some practice with the settings. Make it to strong, and you cant remove it or your model end up ugly where the supports was. Make it too weak and you can find yourself while the nozzle is moving it bumps the supports and it gets stuck to the nozzle or the supports break and the printer just prints in the air with filament oozing everywhere ruining the whole print.

If you don't mind not having that mirror smooth finish at the bottom, then use rafts. I come to love them as you lay down the raft it sticks very well and if you have very small parts or supports it stik great to the raft. Only minor problem is removing it from the raft once done but I never had a issue. Also with rafts you can get away with a somewhat off leveled bed. Very forgiving.

 

[Reavs]

@Reavs , what slicing software do you use ? What is your support settings ?

Getting the supports just right take some practice with the settings. Make it to strong, and you cant remove it or your model end up ugly where the supports was. Make it too weak and you can find yourself while the nozzle is moving it bumps the supports and it gets stuck to the nozzle or the supports break and the printer just prints in the air with filament oozing everywhere ruining the whole print.

If you don't mind not having that mirror smooth finish at the bottom, then use rafts. I come to love them as you lay down the raft it sticks very well and if you have very small parts or supports it stik great to the raft. Only minor problem is removing it from the raft once done but I never had a issue. Also with rafts you can get away with a somewhat off leveled bed. Very forgiving.

I'm using Cura at the moment. The supports are the thing i'm not sure about when setting up the print. I left it on defaults, but if I remember correctly, it's on "everywhere", 50° overhang, raft enabled and skirt disabled. Can't recall the rest of it right now but I'll check when i get back home. I tested it with a small print of a Star trek ship to see how it behaves, but it spends more time printing supports then the ship. Think i need to flip the ship on its side and see what it does.

 

[thePridge]

I grabbed a Tevo Tarantula from www.diyelectronics.co.za on black friday deals.

It was a bit of an IKEA experience:

Got it set up and I printed a calibration cube... Later I printed a parts fan duct...

Here is the calibration cube... Left is before adding the parts fan... Right is after... The corners haven't lifted and the edges are straighter.
I'm a noob so I still could probably make it better.

Later I printed a "cheesy" fan grill...

 

[Reavs]

Which support pattern do you guys use for smaller detailed prints?

 

[lowracer]

ok, So the powers that be gave permission that I can get a 3d printer. it will work out cheaper to print some lego blocks for prototyping/electronics/etc than to buy lego technic / mindstorm. will still use normal lego where fit is more important than the extra functionality

(basically thinking of printing lego blocks to mount an Arduino or raspi as a controller, and blocks to mount screens, powerbanks, motors/servos/little sensors, and then also print
any special movable parts where required)

the 220x220 x whatever printvolume should be fine for most, which exclude the Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini @ 2999

(build height not that important for me, as most of the time I might print lego height only)

diy electronics seems to be out of stock for the bottom end
https://www.buildvolume.co.za/creality-ender-range has the Ender-3 pro for 4459,00
any other suggestions?

not knowing much yet about the 3d printers, think local and new, but not sure if I should do the import thing

might also consider secondhand if I can pick up (say joburg/Pretoria) and the person can demo/show me around, and not getting rid of it because of issues

 

[ReaperST]

I just got a notification that the Ender 3 is back in stock at DIY Electronics. So maybe worth an email to them. They got it for R3999

 

[thePridge]

I just got a notification that the Ender 3 is back in stock at DIY Electronics. So maybe worth an email to them. They got it for R3999

@lowracer get in there before they update the stock count on the site and other people buy it... lol.

 

[kenny'sgh05t]

WOW haven't been on here in a while, Seems more and more people have joined the 3D printing world..

Update on my printing.
My ender 3 is a monster, I have printed many on many of hours on it.. PLA and even ABS without any issues. Had my share of spaghetti monsters. layershifts, cloged nozzels.. ect..
But I'm still going and printing away!!

Ill Post some pics a bit later on.

Cheers!

 

[Reavs]

Think I'm getting the hang of it. I had a issue with wonky layers, but fixed it by upping the temperature from 200 to 220. The only issue i still have is the marks left by support structures. I'm already eyeing that Ender 3 Pro as primary with the i3 mini for the smaller bits and pieces.

 

[lowracer]

I was thinking on whether to get it or not, so delayed it a bit, then decided to go ahead anyway.

Got a ender 3 pro from 3drone, worked out cheaper than the other places, shipping included, and it should be here tomorrow if the courier company comes to the party. (and I negotiated a slight discount)

Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer - 3Drone Online Store

 

[MSI1104]

Only thing I am waiting for is the MMU 2.0 upgrade from Prusa...

 

[lowracer]

Received the printer on Monday, built it up xmas day afternoon, did the leveling yesterday afternoon - and first print yesterday evening.

magnetic bed was a dream to work with - no hairspray, glue-water mix, or special printing muti required. I have not yet disassembled the parts, but think next time I will try them without the raft (being small parts)


For now, I will stay on PLA, no need yet to use anything else

how are you guys selecting your filament - (besides by color) - do you select by price, by brand, by store, or do you go for special features (shimmering glow in the dark radioactive green)

 

[lowracer]

Printed a totoro, without raft - went halfway, then came loose, and some spaghetti.
then realized the raft comes off easily off the printed stuff (the minifig above) so printed the Totoro again, with raft, and it came out perfectly

Lesson learnt - will print with rafts only from now.

next started printing a USB-SD-Micro SD storage "brick" with raft. went halfway, then go stuck. raft didn't adhere nicely to the corners, and lifted (and curved). Not sure if it was oils from touching the print bed, the fill (was set to 25% for the specific one) or the piece of test filament that came with the printer. - most likely a combination

Swapped out for a new roll of filament, gave the print bed a good wiping with alcohol, then did a 9-10 hour print job of 4 x cookie cutters with no hassles.

Lesson learnt - will wipe the magnetic print bed with alcohol prior to use.

(might have been a bit silly - put 4 x cookie cutter stl models on the same print, if anything went wrong, it would have been 4 x stuffed up prints)

 

[thePridge]

So I’ve decided I want to model stuff in 3D app and print with mah printer… I was holding a ruler behind stuff and trying to “Eyeball” the measurement… It felt kek. I asked my dad if I could lend his vernier… but it was at his work… so I thought “I’m sure I could print one”

Here is the result:

You turn the knob at the back to open and close the jaws.

It’s not 100% accurate… but it’s pretty close… close enough for what I’ll be modeling. It’s less that 1mm out… so by the time it gets to 70mm it’s 1mm out by that point…

could use some cleanup here and there… But I still need to buy my wife a dremel that I’ll keep

 

[lowracer]

So maybe if you calibrate the printer, based on the measurements, - you can print lego that fits well.

 

[thePridge]

So maybe if you calibrate the printer, based on the measurements, - you can print lego that fits well.

A buddy of mine actually suggested printing the "ruler" part and calibrating the printer to get is super accurate.
It's already "pretty" close... so smaller lego bricks might actually clip together.
I might try print one and see.

 

[roguemat]

Hey people, new here!
I'm the dude in the DIYElectronics videos like this one

Lesson learnt - will print with rafts only from now.

Rafts are the devil incarnate. With the build surfaces we have these days (and PLA) there is zero reason to waste the time and filament. You bed isn't correctly levelled most likely. Or if you're struggling with the buildtak, stick a piece of glass and use hairspray.

 

[jaxx]

So I’ve decided I want to model stuff in 3D app and print with mah printer… I was holding a ruler behind stuff and trying to “Eyeball” the measurement… It felt kek. I asked my dad if I could lend his vernier… but it was at his work… so I thought “I’m sure I could print one”

Here is the result:
View attachment 43306

View attachment 43307

You turn the knob at the back to open and close the jaws.

View attachment 43308
It’s not 100% accurate… but it’s pretty close… close enough for what I’ll be modeling. It’s less that 1mm out… so by the time it gets to 70mm it’s 1mm out by that point…



View attachment 43309
could use some cleanup here and there… But I still need to buy my wife a dremel that I’ll keep

I'm also thinking about learning to model in 3d so I can print my own designs for projects / fixes around the house etc (don't have the printer yet though). What application are you looking into? Fusion 3D seems to be the most popular, and it's free, so I was thinking of going that route.

Re the vernier caliper, Makro stocks a plastic one for < R100 that is good to 0.01mm if you use it carefully.
The printed one looks nifty, but won't do fractions of a mm.
Edit: Fusion 360

 

[Nalith]

So.. I'm almost a 3D printer owner....

Who else on here is into 3D printing?

Welcome to the club Worth getting into Fusion360 too while you are at it

 

[roguemat]

Definitely Fusion 360.

 

[Toi]

We've all been in a similar situation, it will come right with practice.


View attachment 38207

Nice to see another Morgan owner

 

[thePridge]

I'm also thinking about learning to model in 3d so I can print my own designs for projects / fixes around the house etc (don't have the printer yet though). What application are you looking into? Fusion 3D seems to be the most popular, and it's free, so I was thinking of going that route.

Re the vernier caliper, Makro stocks a plastic one for < R100 that is good to 0.01mm if you use it carefully.
The printed one looks nifty, but won't do fractions of a mm.
Edit: Fusion 360

I'm using fusion 360. I've partially modelled a part of the sun visor in the car that broke and I have a piece of a drone I need to model and print.

My printer is still new so I want to "print all the things" lol. That's why I printed the vernier. And for the detail level I'm looking at it all work for now

 

[lowracer]

<snipped>

Re the vernier caliper, Makro stocks a plastic one for < R100 that is good to 0.01mm if you use it carefully.
The printed one looks nifty, but won't do fractions of a mm.

one advantage of the cheapo verniers, compared to the printed one, is that you can measure depth with them, but the printed one seems to be able to do only inside and outside measurements

(obviously check first, but the plastic ones I have can do it, and they were <R30)

 

[Marick]

Hey people, new here!
I'm the dude in the DIYElectronics videos like this one

Rafts are the devil incarnate. With the build surfaces we have these days (and PLA) there is zero reason to waste the time and filament. You bed isn't correctly levelled most likely. Or if you're struggling with the buildtak, stick a piece of glass and use hairspray.

@0:30 Take your time with that warm up,you might hurt yourself next time
Otherwise great vid man.

 

[BLaaR]

Since a week back I could here a slight "grinding" noise coming from my CR10 below the print bed. Moving the tray I can feel what appears to be a "flat spot", If I move the tray by hand it moves without effort till it hits the "flat" spot. I don't know if this flat spot was there to begin with but my prints come out good. Just the grinding noise, can I oil the bearings or should I buy other bearings ? IF so what do you call the bearings as I see many different types on sites like DIY Electronics ?

I checked the wheels also but can't detect a flat spot on one of the wheels. Should I rather replace all the wheels with bearings ?

Oh, and my "mech a day project when well"

 

[roguemat]

Those v slot wheels are basically plastic shells with bearings inside. Radial bearings like this won't cause a specific problems like you're describing ( I think) because they all rotate multiple times over the length of the bed. So if it was somehow a bad spot in the bearings then you'd feel that spot probably 10 times over the y.

I'd suggest narrowing it down by first removing the belt and seeing if the problem is still there.
FWIW I'm fairly sure the bearing inside the V wheel is a 625zz.

 

[BLaaR]

Those v slot wheels are basically plastic shells with bearings inside. Radial bearings like this won't cause a specific problems like you're describing ( I think) because they all rotate multiple times over the length of the bed. So if it was somehow a bad spot in the bearings then you'd feel that spot probably 10 times over the y.

I'd suggest narrowing it down by first removing the belt and seeing if the problem is still there.
FWIW I'm fairly sure the bearing inside the V wheel is a 625zz.

Moving the bed all the way back, and then slowly forward I can feel the spot about 3 - 4 times. Maybe there is an issue with one of the wheels ?

 

[lowracer]

Moving the bed all the way back, and then slowly forward I can feel the spot about 3 - 4 times. Maybe there is an issue with one of the wheels ?[/QU

maybe you only need this:
Delrin Solid V-Wheel with 625ZZ Bearing | For Linear Motion

(you can get the wheel without the bearing as well)