3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

[thePridge]

Printed this in white PLA... came out much better now that I sorted my bed leveling issues.

 

[roguemat]

Hmmm, ok. I'd still suggest you confirm it with removing the belt.
Are you in Durban? I have some spare v wheels I can lend you if you want to try different one.

Also, if it is definitely the wheels, it would be worth taking them all off and feeling by hand. But these bearings are really sturdy, and shouldn't ever damage under normal use. Maybe there is a bit of gunk on one of them?

 

[lowracer]

<snipped stuff>
Rafts are the devil incarnate. With the build surfaces we have these days (and PLA) there is zero reason to waste the time and filament. You bed isn't correctly levelled most likely. Or if you're struggling with the buildtak, stick a piece of glass and use hairspray.

I have an ender 3 pro with the magnetic bed. if I level the 4 corners of the bed, the middle has got a decent gap. I actually cut two smaller squares of paper (about 120x120, and 100 x 100) and put that between the two pieces of the magnetic bed, and then the middle is also level with the corners. It seems the warped bed is a common issue on the enders.

(I have not tried and printed on it yet)

So my question - so do I live with it, get it swapped out by the supplier, or do I take off the magnetic surface, and add a piece of class there?

 

[BLaaR]

Hmmm, ok. I'd still suggest you confirm it with removing the belt.
Are you in Durban? I have some spare v wheels I can lend you if you want to try different one.

Also, if it is definitely the wheels, it would be worth taking them all off and feeling by hand. But these bearings are really sturdy, and shouldn't ever damage under normal use. Maybe there is a bit of gunk on one of them?

So .......... after spending most of my afternoon , I removed the build plate and all of the wheels. Was a big learning curve for me and after assembling again, somehow the carriage was not level. I have no idea how that happened. So disassembled again and this time it was good.

The grinding noise is gone, so it seems your assessment was spot on. I checked all the wheels and bearings and they seemed good. Will do a print now and see how it goes. Not too sure how tight the belt must be so I hope I have it right.

Thanks again for assisting.

 

[roguemat]

It's hard to explain over the internet how tight it should be. It shouldn't be so tight that it makes the bed harder to move, and it shouldn't be loose enough that there is any slack.

 

[roguemat]

So my question - so do I live with it, get it swapped out by the supplier, or do I take off the magnetic surface, and add a piece of class there?

That's a tough one. The easiest fix may be to remove the bed and manually try bed it SLIGHTLY. But glass is also a good fix. I actually prefer glass. On my enders I'm still using the normal surface, but every other printer I've replaced with glass. Well except for one which I print on a bathroom tile.

 

[BLaaR]

Seems people are moving to mirrors as of late. Aparently mirrors can't warp like glass when it is made. Not sure how true that is. Still need to try it.

 

[roguemat]

Interesting, didn't know that about mirrors. You can use borosilicate too, but it is probably more pricey.
The one thing I don't like about mirrors is that it makes it quite hard to see how the first layer is going. Maybe my eyes are just dumb, but it confuses me.

 

[ReaperST]

Still really considering getting a printer, for the reason for printing pieces for PC building, DIY stuffs and probably some models and statues.

Ender 3 still a good option for that?

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[jaxx]

Still really considering getting a printer, for the reason for printing pieces for PC building, DIY stuffs and probably some models and statues.

Ender 3 still a good option for that?

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I'm in exactly the same boat... From my research, the ender 3 pro seems to be the way to go.

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[BLaaR]

Yeah, Ender 3 is the way to go. Only reason I got a CR10 was the Ender 3 was not in stock and I was worried I blow my money. Anyhow, @roguemat , have you spent some time with CR20 yet ?


Creality CR-20 3D Printer | 220 x 220 x 250mm

 

[roguemat]

@ReaperST @jaxx absolutely. Ender 3 Pro is where it's at!

@BLaaR no Too many printers, too little time

 

[ReaperST]

Mmmm... now to think about it

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[jaxx]

Thanks for the confirmation - I've resolved to spend the next month getting to grips with Fusion 360 (started with my first model this afternoon), then I'm ordering an Ender 3 Pro.

I'll also need time to clear out some space in my garage for the printer. Just a question in this regard - I know that the bed must be levelled against the hot end, but is it also necessary for the table on which the printer is stood to be 100% level?


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[BLaaR]

Thanks for the confirmation - I've resolved to spend the next month getting to grips with Fusion 360 (started with my first model this afternoon), then I'm ordering an Ender 3 Pro.

I'll also need time to clear out some space in my garage for the printer. Just a question in this regard - I know that the bed must be levelled against the hot end, but is it also necessary for the table on which the printer is stood to be 100% level?


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No. Just as long as the surface is flat and the printer or table doesn't wobble when printing.

 

[roguemat]

Right, flat, doesn't have to be level. You could technically print upside down and it'd work, you just will likely get some artefacts from the extruder plastic falling away from the main part (because gravity).

Hmmmm, now I want to run a printer upside down. BRB.

 

[roguemat]

 

[thePridge]

Well... that's not something you see every day is it. Lol

 

[BLaaR]

The proof is in the pudding.........err....printing.

 

[BLaaR]

From a discussion I had on a Facebook group where people are selling vintage toys , the gyro bots and pop cycles came up but they are without the zip cord. I am pretty sure it will be doable to 3D print a zip cord. Which filament would be best to use ?

 

[ReaperST]

I remember those toys. I had the motorbikes.

I remember those cords being injection moulded plastic. No clue what filament to use, just giving my 2c as I'm interested too.

On a side note, probably gonna order my printer tomorrow. Either Ender3/Pro or the CR20

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[BLaaR]

Some one already made one on Thingiverse

Now the question is, how hard is it to print flexible filament ?

Rip Cord by Imirnman

Will this work ?
Flexible White TPU 1.75mm 1kg CCTREE | Flexible Exotic Filament

 

[Toi]

Some one already made one on Thingiverse

Now the question is, how hard is it to print flexible filament ?

Rip Cord by Imirnman

Will this work ?
Flexible White TPU 1.75mm 1kg CCTREE | Flexible Exotic Filament

I think that TPU would be too soft. As soon as you pull it those little teeth could strip.

IMO I can see no reason why the rip cord cannot be printed with normal PLA.

There is no reason for the cord to bend, as long as you pull it straight, it wont break.

 

[Toi]

If you do however want to try and replicate the original rip cord as much as possible then I would recommend looking at PA6 nylon.

CCTREE Natural Nylon Filament - 1.75mm | Flexible and Durable

 

[MSI1104]

If you do however want to try and replicate the original rip cord as much as possible then I would recommend looking at PA6 nylon.

CCTREE Natural Nylon Filament - 1.75mm | Flexible and Durable

ABS will work fine to be honest and CCTREE Nylon is horrible.

 

[Toi]

ABS will work fine to be honest and CCTREE Nylon is horrible.

Yeah have not used it before.

Terrible quality or a bitch to print?

 

[MSI1104]

Yeah have not used it before.

Terrible quality or a bitch to print?

Quality is crap, poor layer adhesion and strings like mad. I thought it was me until I found a few guys on the Prusa forums discussing the same problems...

If anyone has the STL file for that zipcord I will be happy to print it in ABS. No charge just need to pay your own shipping.

NVM I found it, I will print one tomorrow morning, dont feel like cleaning my print bed tonight.

 

[BLaaR]

Quality is crap, poor layer adhesion and strings like mad. I thought it was me until I found a few guys on the Prusa forums discussing the same problems...

If anyone has the STL file for that zipcord I will be happy to print it in ABS. No charge just need to pay your own shipping.

NVM I found it, I will print one tomorrow morning, dont feel like cleaning my print bed tonight.

Nice. I do not have ABS nor have printed using it, I will also print one in PLA and see but I guess it will be too brittle and will probably break if you don't pull the cord straight ?

 

[MSI1104]

Nice. I do not have ABS nor have printed using it, I will also print one in PLA and see but I guess it will be too brittle and will probably break if you don't pull the cord straight ?

Yep. will snap PETG I print with but I Know it will elongate eventually but ABS is fine for small items

 

[MSI1104]

About 30 minutes with abs... 90 plus with tpu

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