3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

[PandaAttack1]

Calling all willing to assist!

I've recently been struggling with PLA adhesion on my ender 3 pro. I have to set the nozzle so close to the bed, my first layers are almost transparent. I don't get the same hassles with PETG. It feels like I need to dial in the level after every print within 1 micron, otherwise I get a spaghetti mess on initial layer.

What do you guys suggest? I am printing CRON PLA at 195 and 55 bed. 40mm/s on the stock magnetic bed. I dial in the level as best I can but still have to fiddle with the knobs and restart a print 5 times before it actually sticks. I've tightened my Z axis so there's no play at all, but still have to re-level after every single print...

My nozzle is basically riding on the bed now initial layer.

I am seriously contemplating a bltouch at this point. Along with a carborundum glass bed.

Any thoughts?

@AAAH NUUU BRU pls halp.

I did a bunch of reading now and concluded that I might have to fiddle a bunch more with the temperatures of my bed and hot end, as well as my initial layer settings. Maybe up the bed to 60 and hot end to 210? With some minor adjustments on initial layer width?

This video summarised most of what I think could be the cause:

I hate using new filament.

 

[EELeat]

I did a bunch of reading now and concluded that I might have to fiddle a bunch more with the temperatures of my bed and hot end, as well as my initial layer settings. Maybe up the bed to 60 and hot end to 210? With some minor adjustments on initial layer width?

This video summarised most of what I think could be the cause:

I hate using new filament.

Question is, when do you level the bed?
It's best to level the bed when both the hotend and bed are heated up.

 

[PandaAttack1]

Question is, when do you level the bed?
It's best to level the bed when both the hotend and bed are heated up.

Thanks man. I've tried multiple approaches, and same hassles. I have a pretty keen eye to level the bed while putting down the layer as well. And I really need to get the bed up there to get this shit to adhere.

 

[eyesuc]

Before getting the expensive glass, get some cheap stuff from a glass place like Extrusion World. R20 should be enough for a very very flat bed.

I have had a bit of mixed results with the magnetic beds sold with the enders, but with glass I have a lot more joy. Just glass, no adhesives, unless you are printing ABS.

 

[ReaperST]

I never really had much luck with the stock build plate. Call me old school. New printer, I go get 3mm mirror, Hair spray, temp 210/60 for PLA. Never had an issue since

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[PandaAttack1]

The irritating thing is, that it stopped adhering almost overnight. Was printing fine with no issues, and now I have to fight with every single new print.

 

[eyesuc]

The irritating thing is, that it stopped adhering almost overnight. Was printing fine with no issues, and now I have to fight with every single new print.

Is there perhaps something on the surface? Have you cleaned with some IPA?

 

[PandaAttack1]

Is there perhaps something on the surface? Have you cleaned with some IPA?

I've used some alcohol prep pads. I'll scrub her down proper tonight and see if that helps.

 

[valiente]

Also too close is also not always a good thing.

• Slow down first layer
• Increase line width of first layer

 

[PandaAttack1]

Also too close is also not always a good thing.

• Slow down first layer
• Increase line width of first layer

Thanks dude!

I've concluded that something must be extremely wrong here. I've never struggled with bed leveling and nothing changed overnight. I double checked everything on my printer and reassembled my extruder... A few hours of extreme frustration and I finally got it!

Printing at 220 degrees now with 90% and it is much much better! Still some fine tuning to do, but I won't ever buy white CRON PLA again.

 

[eviltoy]

Calling all willing to assist!

I've recently been struggling with PLA adhesion on my ender 3 pro. I have to set the nozzle so close to the bed, my first layers are almost transparent. I don't get the same hassles with PETG. It feels like I need to dial in the level after every print within 1 micron, otherwise I get a spaghetti mess on initial layer.

What do you guys suggest? I am printing CRON PLA at 195 and 55 bed. 40mm/s on the stock magnetic bed. I dial in the level as best I can but still have to fiddle with the knobs and restart a print 5 times before it actually sticks. I've tightened my Z axis so there's no play at all, but still have to re-level after every single print...

My nozzle is basically riding on the bed now initial layer.

I am seriously contemplating a bltouch at this point. Along with a carborundum glass bed.

Any thoughts?

@AAAH NUUU BRU pls halp.

Flexible PEI bed and you will never look back. Got a good few hundred hours on mine and its still going strong. No lifts niks

 

[PandaAttack1]

Thanks dude!

I've concluded that something must be extremely wrong here. I've never struggled with bed leveling and nothing changed overnight. I double checked everything on my printer and reassembled my extruder... A few hours of extreme frustration and I finally got it!

Printing at 220 degrees now with 90% and it is much much better! Still some fine tuning to do, but I won't ever buy white CRON PLA again.

So I celebrated too soon. Although it is going better, it is still a massive pain in the ass. I just can't seem to figure this one out.

Can it just be this kak filament? I'll try other filament tonight and bin the rest of this roll.

 

[EELeat]

So I celebrated too soon. Although it is going better, it is still a massive pain in the ass. I just can't seem to figure this one out.

Can it just be this kak filament? I'll try other filament tonight and bin the rest of this roll.

I haven't had issues with CRON itsself. Wanhao is the shit I hate. Leave it in the printer for a day and it starts snapping.
Is the filament bubbling when exiting the nozzle? Jam it in the over for an hour or 3.

 

[Qui_Illustrati]

So I celebrated too soon. Although it is going better, it is still a massive pain in the ass. I just can't seem to figure this one out.

Can it just be this kak filament? I'll try other filament tonight and bin the rest of this roll.

Likely Filament related. I had similar issues in the past. Came down to moisture in the filament. Also went through every conceivable troubleshooting step and couldn't get the first layer down just right. This after trying new filament (that was unused but open). Swopped between a mirror then glass then that generic ender flex bed. Turned up the bed temp. Turned down the bed temp. Turned up and down the hotend temps. Adjusted a bunch of slicer settings. Adjusted speed settings. Damn nightmare.

Check if you get the same nonsense on different and dry filament.

What printer are you printing on? Stock firmware? Before going the BLT route perhaps throw on a firmware with Manual Mesh Bed Levelling enabled. Poor mans BLT - but it's effective.

 

[PandaAttack1]

Likely Filament related. I had similar issues in the past. Came down to moisture in the filament. Also went through every conceivable troubleshooting step and couldn't get the first layer down just right. This after trying new filament (that was unused but open). Swopped between a mirror then glass then that generic ender flex bed. Turned up the bed temp. Turned down the bed temp. Turned up and down the hotend temps. Adjusted a bunch of slicer settings. Adjusted speed settings. Damn nightmare.

Check if you get the same nonsense on different and dry filament.

What printer are you printing on? Stock firmware? Before going the BLT route perhaps throw on a firmware with Manual Mesh Bed Levelling enabled. Poor mans BLT - but it's effective.

I will definitely try other filament tonight, if it is the filament I am going to be a salty boy. So much effort over R400 *R300 roll of plastic.

I am using an Ender 3 pro, with stock firmware through OctoPrint on a macmini. I could never justify a bltouch for my hobby printer because my bed never gave me issues before. I'll read up on manual bed leveling.

 

[PandaAttack1]

I will definitely try other filament tonight, if it is the filament I am going to be a salty boy. So much effort over R400 roll of plastic.

I am using an Ender 3 pro, with stock firmware through OctoPrint on a macmini. I could never justify a bltouch for my hobby printer because my bed never gave me issues before. I'll read up on manual bed leveling.

I'm also going to up the temperature of my bed to 70 and see if it changes anything tonight...


I really want to try glass for the flatness and surface finish, but I really don't want more adhesion issues than I already have with this filament atm.

 

[eyesuc]

I will definitely try other filament tonight, if it is the filament I am going to be a salty boy. So much effort over R400 roll of plastic.

I am using an Ender 3 pro, with stock firmware through OctoPrint on a macmini. I could never justify a bltouch for my hobby printer because my bed never gave me issues before. I'll read up on manual bed leveling.

R400??? Wtf

Please try Funkiments. Locally made and soooo good.

PLA Filament for 3D Printing – Funkiments

Funkiments standard PLA (Polylactic Acid) filament is a special blend of bio-polymers that combine to form a non-brittle, easy printing product ideal for beginner and veteran printers alike.

www.funkiments.co.za

R225 per KG PLA

They started making colours last week I think. Blue, purple and red. More black will be made tomorrow I think (it is selling like hotcakes)

 

[ReaperST]

I tried SA Filament and must admit, works beautifully. Gonna try their PETG soon

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[PandaAttack1]

R400??? Wtf

Please try Funkiments. Locally made and soooo good.

PLA Filament for 3D Printing – Funkiments

Funkiments standard PLA (Polylactic Acid) filament is a special blend of bio-polymers that combine to form a non-brittle, easy printing product ideal for beginner and veteran printers alike.

www.funkiments.co.za

R225 per KG PLA

They started making colours last week I think. Blue, purple and red. More black will be made tomorrow I think (it is selling like hotcakes)

Apologies, that was a mistype! It's R300.

 

[eyesuc]

Apologies, that was a mistype! It's R300.

Ok that's much better. There is some R400 filament which I LOVE, Form Futura, but it is like R400+ per 750g.
Nice but overpriced.

Getting the same results with Funkiments.

 

[PandaAttack1]

Thank you for everyone's input! It turned out to be the filament. I have perfect first layers again on my small parts printing. Guess I'm keeping this roll for when I get that 1mm nozzle.

 

[PandaAttack1]

Thank you for everyone's input! It turned out to be the filament. I have perfect first layers again on my small parts printing. Guess I'm keeping this roll for when I get that 1mm nozzle.

This has been a frustrating 2 weeks of printing... Now my tolerances are off...

Guess I'm printing small models again and dialing all my settings in again.

 

[eyesuc]

Finished construction last night at 21:00
Was quite a mission, and lots of custom hardware required (imperial design vs metric country)

 

[PandaAttack1]

Howsit gents.

Anyone here know where I can source nFEP locally? I'm over the issues I am having my sonic 4k mini.

It's at the point where I just want to send the printer away for someone to fix and get it printing consistently. So many monies, so little successful prints.

 

[Orihalcon]

Do you folks in the know think we'll see the Anycubic Vyper locally anytime soon? That seems like a great buy and print option with all the needed bells and whistles one would usually upgrade on an Ender 3.

 

[ReaperST]

AnyCubic products seem alright but their customer service is shocking. Personally, I wouldn't support them. Surely there is something similar to that machine? Creality or or or. Would be best to get a machine with a big following locally. Then parts are easy to come by, other than having to import all the time

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[valiente]

I want a Rat Rig V-Core 3 so badly!!!

At least 300mm one, or even 400mm

 

[eyesuc]

I want a Rat Rig V-Core 3 so badly!!!

View attachment 60743


At least 300mm one, or even 400mm

If you start adding the items from the dropdowns, it quickly hits 1200 you rows...

That is like 2 x Prusa MK3s+

 

[valiente]

If you start adding the items from the dropdowns, it quickly hits 1200 you rows...

That is like 2 x Prusa MK3s+

Agreed, super expensive...


However this is probably one of the most high end printers you can assemble/buy!


Linear rails, Direct Drive and Input Shaping with Klipper can decrease your print time by like 50% without loss of quality...

 

[valiente]

Okay gents, time to get feedback from everyone here - I am going to be building/buying a Rat Rig V-Core 3

Go here to configure your own:

Rat Rig V-Core 3.1 - Configurable kit

V-Core 3.1 will be replaced by its successor, V-Core 4, coming in April 2024. V-Core 3.1 is no longer in production and there is no stock left. To stay on top of all the updates and to receive an "Early bird" offer to buy the V-Core 4, please subscribe to the V-Core 4 Newsletter. The V-Core...

www.ratrig.com

My build so far:

• 500x500x500mm Build Volume
• BTT SKR PRO v1.2
• Mosquito Magnum
• Bondtech LGX
• 5 x 48mm Nema 17 Stepper Motors
• 480mm Bed Heater
• 24V 350watt Weho PSU
• BLTouch v3.1
• FlexPlate PEI 510mm sheet

Also if anyone else would like to join the order? or if you want your own order, discount code: V3VECTOR3D

500 x 500 in ACTION!!

What would you change?