3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

[valiente]

Anyone in Centurion/Pretoria with a large SLA printer??

I need a couple of small items printed: 50x50x5mm

 

[Macross]

Good day chaps.

I have an HP Proliant Gen8 Microserver.
Looking to have a caddy or caddies printed for the 2.5" HDD or SSD s.
Scoured the net, cannot find an HP one.

I found this to help 2.5" caddy

I'm in Joburg South & if anyone has been able to print this or has a better design, please let me know.
Oh and what would the costs be?

Thanks

 

[valiente]

Good day chaps.

I have an HP Proliant Gen8 Microserver.
Looking to have a caddy or caddies printed for the 2.5" HDD or SSD s.
Scoured the net, cannot find an HP one.

I found this to help 2.5" caddy

I'm in Joburg South & if anyone has been able to print this or has a better design, please let me know.
Oh and what would the costs be?

Thanks

Should be all sorted out

 

[M@tree2]

Hey all, just finished building my CoreXY machine (350^3) build volume and I'm struggling with the glass continually cracking, any ideas on what else to use.
The build plate is 350x350, I can't get anything bigger as I designed the printer with basically no tolerances...

Float glass just cracks, aluminium unless milled is going to warp?

Any suggestions?

 

[ravingDIODE]

Hey all, just finished building my CoreXY machine (350^3) build volume and I'm struggling with the glass continually cracking, any ideas on what else to use.
The build plate is 350x350, I can't get anything bigger as I designed the printer with basically no tolerances...

Float glass just cracks, aluminium unless milled is going to warp?

Any suggestions?

Contact Shaun at www.printordie.co.za and ask what he would suggest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[eyesuc]

Hey all, just finished building my CoreXY machine (350^3) build volume and I'm struggling with the glass continually cracking, any ideas on what else to use.
The build plate is 350x350, I can't get anything bigger as I designed the printer with basically no tolerances...

Float glass just cracks, aluminium unless milled is going to warp?

Any suggestions?

What brand of glass are you using? How is it attached to the heated bed?

I use 4mm Clearvue glass at 110°C with zero issues. R20 for a 310x320 piece of glass

 

[valiente]

Love these Rolls!!

 

[PlatinumStarsMC]

Anyone know what i can do with all my 3d printing waste its all pla , Are there any company's that can recycle the filament here in SA?

 

[BillNaaai]

I have literally created www.printbed.co.za for this exact reason. Only created it today, so 0 users and 0 posts. Go and be the first

Is it still up and running?

 

[Crouchinglee]

Quick question for the 3D printers here what is the maximum temperature your products (different filaments) can handle?
Celsius please none of that foreign malarkey!

 

[ravingDIODE]

Quick question for the 3D printers here what is the maximum temperature your products (different filaments) can handle?
Celsius please none of that foreign malarkey!

All depends on the material type. From 58 degrees to 110 / 120 degrees.


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[Crouchinglee]

All depends on the material type. From 58 degrees to 110 / 120 degrees.


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What is the most heat resistant filament to use to achieve this 120 degrees C?

 

[ravingDIODE]

What is the most heat resistant filament to use to achieve this 120 degrees C?

The Pro range of filaments by SA Filament. PRO

 

[EELeat]

What is the most heat resistant filament to use to achieve this 120 degrees C?

I haven't printed in a while, but keen to experiment with something.
If you're trying to print at a moerse speed, surely you should put the heat up a little, even above 120?
Because the filament would be moving so fast that it doesn't actually even reach that temp.
@ravingDIODE what do you think?

 

[dhirennaidoo]

I haven't printed in a while, but keen to experiment with something.
If you're trying to print at a moerse speed, surely you should put the heat up a little, even above 120?
Because the filament would be moving so fast that it doesn't actually even reach that temp.
@ravingDIODE what do you think?

I suspect they're talking about temps the final part can withstand, not nozzle temp during printing.

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[Crouchinglee]

I suspect they're talking about temps the final part can withstand, not nozzle temp during printing.

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

Indeed - I wanted to know what the failure temperature would be on a printed piece if I were to use it in a high heat environment.

 

[valiente]

I haven't printed in a while, but keen to experiment with something.
If you're trying to print at a moerse speed, surely you should put the heat up a little, even above 120?
Because the filament would be moving so fast that it doesn't actually even reach that temp.
@ravingDIODE what do you think?

That is correct but probably more so is a high flow Hot End ... Like the Mosquito Magnum
Flow Rate: 30-35 mm^3/sec

Where the E3D V6 is only rated at 15 mm^3/sec

Sent from my SM-F926B using Tapatalk

 

[ravingDIODE]

Agreed.

I print mostly with 0.6mm nozzle size at 0.3mm layers at 60-70mm/s and I always print on the max temp on the filament box or that temp +5 degrees.

Don’t get under extrusion yet.

But you can also work out the max flow rate of your own hot end and then set your max flow rate too.


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[EELeat]

I suspect they're talking about temps the final part can withstand, not nozzle temp during printing.

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

And I'm being dumb, because PLA melts up to 220 normally, not 120.

Sorry, I'm on holiday at the beach, brain doesn't function.

 

[valiente]

Talking about speed of prints....


My build is coming along, slowly but surely!!

Some key specs for fast print speed:

• SKR PRO running Klipper with Input Shaping
• Mosquito Magnum Hotend with 0.6 or 0.8 Vanadium Nozzle
• Bondtech LGX Direct Drive

Will finish the Carriage today and hopefully on Sunday finish all the Electronics so that I can start playing with the Software and Calibrations...

Target is a sub 10 minute benchy that still looks excellent.

 

[eyesuc]

I will be getting my Voron end of next year, but it will look something like this:

Insane features. Cannot wait for reviews.

First look at the Original Prusa XL: CoreXY with an always-perfect first layer and plenty of new features! - Original Prusa 3D Printers

Hello everyone, here’s the BIG news many of you have been waiting for (some might say that Friday came a bit early). ;-) I’m happy to give you the first look at the Original Prusa XL, our upcoming large-scale CoreXY 3D...

blog.prusaprinters.org

 

[BillNaaai]

What was that substance someone shared here that is used to coat your prints to look better / smoother? Alsois a BL touch useful / does it have a purpose on the ender 3 v2?

 

[ravingDIODE]

Bltouch is always useful. Acetone vapour to smooth abs prints.

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk

 

[BillNaaai]

Bltouch is always useful. Acetone vapour to smooth abs prints.

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk

how can it help me if the bed doesn't self-level? what info can it give me? and how do I apply the acetone? this stuff ? Smith and Co Acetone (500ml)

 

[Miz3r]

I opted against a BL touch, i have only leveled the beds on my 2 x ender 3 v2 a hand full of times

Once i have it dialed in, i dont ever usually have to do it again, unless there is a heavy or large print, then i just make sure that everything is cool, but a piece of paper method works great, and so easy to do,

The Bltouch seems gimicky to me, but suppose it works for its purpose for those who have one, but i prefer manual feel method.

 

[Qui_Illustrati]

how can it help me if the bed doesn't self-level? what info can it give me? and how do I apply the acetone? this stuff ? Smith and Co Acetone (500ml)

It helps by probing the bed at multiple points, essentially mapping out the bed in grids for high spots or low spots. It stores the values It gets and uses those value when the nozzle gets to those areas. Beds warp through adjustments, heating and cooling etc. Creality is notorious for shipping warped beds.
Using something like Octoprint can give you a visual representation of your bed level as well, with a heat map of sorts identifying low and high areas.

Is it gimmicky? I don't think so. It works and is rather good at laying down that first layer consistently. Can you do without? Sure. Lots of ways. Glass bed helps. Mesh bed leveling in firmware. Figuring out low spots and slapping some paper under the magnetic build surface. Constant trial and error and fiddling with those damn knobs. The BLTouch takes away much of the headaches. Also, its so damn cheap which makes it a no-brainer. Anything cheap, mod wise, that makes your 3D printing life easier definitely helps.

All that being said, and having had multiple printers with a BLTouch and multiple without, I actually agree with @Miz3r - I too prefer the manual paper leveling method but with mesh bed leveling in firmware with the knob turn as it lays down the first layer . I'm a sucker for punishment I guess.

The acetone isn't applied to the ABS prints as such. This should help explain :

 

[BillNaaai]

It helps by probing the bed at multiple points, essentially mapping out the bed in grids for high spots or low spots. It stores the values It gets and uses those value when the nozzle gets to those areas. Beds warp through adjustments, heating and cooling etc. Creality is notorious for shipping warped beds.
Using something like Octoprint can give you a visual representation of your bed level as well, with a heat map of sorts identifying low and high areas.

Is it gimmicky? I don't think so. It works and is rather good at laying down that first print consistently. Can you do without? Sure. Lots of ways. Glass bed helps. Mesh bed leveling in firmware. Figuring out low spots and slapping some paper under the magnetic build surface. Constant trial and error and fiddling with those damn knobs. The BLTouch takes away much of the headaches. Also, its so damn cheap which makes it a no-brainer. Anything cheap, mod wise, that makes your 3D printing life easier definitely helps.

The acetone isn't applied to the ABS prints as such. This should help explain :

Thank you so much for these gems. For octoprint: I have a raspberry pi and a webcam. whats next in terms of hardware? What else do I need?

 

[Qui_Illustrati]

Thank you so much for these gems. For octoprint: I have a raspberry pi and a webcam. whats next in terms of hardware? What else do I need?

USB cable and you're all set
If you're going the BLTouch route, make sure to get up to speed on how to flash the latest Marlin firmware with the BLTouch option enabled.

 

[BillNaaai]

USB cable and you're all set
If you're going the BLTouch route, make sure to get up to speed on how to flash the latest Marlin firmware with the BLTouch option enabled.

Well since were going at it with the QNA do you use a dry box? FilaTank Vacuum Sealed Container | Filament Preservation I found this but almost 200 bucks for Tupperware seems spensive. Better solution?

 

[Qui_Illustrati]

Well since were going at it with the QNA do you use a dry box? FilaTank Vacuum Sealed Container | Filament Preservation I found this but almost 200 bucks for Tupperware seems spensive. Better solution?

Nope. Don't use one. Probably should considering the humidity in CT. I have occasionally (rarely) popped filament in to the oven to 'dry' but for the most part never needed to. Also, I guess it can be brand specific. Some brands just all out suck and often times you troubleshoot the hardware when the filament is at fault.

I've recently abandoned FDM and moved on to SLA but looking back now I think much of my filament nightmares may likely have been related to moisture absorption. You're in CT I'd say- Get the box