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3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

I have a CR10 mini with the stock hot end and my last nozzle has just clocked. I cant seem to unblock it. Checking DIY Electronics I see they dont have CR10 nozzles in stock. Will the CR6 nozzle work on my CR10 mini :

Thanks
 
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I have a CR10 mini with the stock hot end and my last nozzle has just clocked. I cant seem to unblock it. Checking DIY Electronics I see they dont have CR10 nozzles in stock. Will the CR6 nozzle work on my CR10 mini :

Thanks

I dont have an answer for the fitting part, however, I normally buy nozzles from this site and they normally have pretty much which ever one im looking for. Their site doesnt really have all their stock on it so maybe give them a call

 
I dont have an answer for the fitting part, however, I normally buy nozzles from this site and they normally have pretty much which ever one im looking for. Their site doesnt really have all their stock on it so maybe give them a call

Thanks, will have a look.

I have been printing with glow in the dark filament , and I think that is what is causing the clogs. Basically nozzle clogs every 18hours print time.
 
So I'm thinking about taking the plunge.

I'm strongly considering the Ender CR-10S Pro V2 - R8999 on 3Dstore at the moment, which seems to be the cheapest I can find it.

Still, 9k is maybe a bit expensive for a first printer? Then again, The Ender 3 V2 is like R6k now anyway, and the CR-10S Pro seems worth the extra cash because of bed size and all the extras that Ender 3 guys end up buying afterwards.

What are your guys' suggestions?
 
I have 2 x ender 3 v2s and love them, however i am noticing even with splitting jobs between the two, i could achieve more with a bigger unit

I was looking at actually importing an ender extender kit so i can print up to 300 or even 400 mm, thats like 150 odd dollars for that kit then i am sorted, still seems cheaper than purchasing a brand new cr10 unit or something of similar equivalent,

having said that i only paid just over 4k per ender 3v2, so seems like my best option

But starting with a ender 3 you cant go wrong, and they seem to hold their value quite well, as they are a work horse
 
I have 2 x ender 3 v2s and love them, however i am noticing even with splitting jobs between the two, i could achieve more with a bigger unit

I was looking at actually importing an ender extender kit so i can print up to 300 or even 400 mm, thats like 150 odd dollars for that kit then i am sorted, still seems cheaper than purchasing a brand new cr10 unit or something of similar equivalent,

having said that i only paid just over 4k per ender 3v2, so seems like my best option

But starting with a ender 3 you cant go wrong, and they seem to hold their value quite well, as they are a work horse
If I could still get an Ender 3 V2 for 4k, it would be a no-brainer for me. But at 6k vs 9k for the CR-10S Pro V2, it becomes more of a discussion. The Ender 3's have so much support from the community though, I wonder if CR-10's have the same?
 
So I'm thinking about taking the plunge.

I'm strongly considering the Ender CR-10S Pro V2 - R8999 on 3Dstore at the moment, which seems to be the cheapest I can find it.

Still, 9k is maybe a bit expensive for a first printer? Then again, The Ender 3 V2 is like R6k now anyway, and the CR-10S Pro seems worth the extra cash because of bed size and all the extras that Ender 3 guys end up buying afterwards.

What are your guys' suggestions?

I have 11 printers and at present the CR10s pro v2 is hands down my favorite and go to printer.
 
I am teaching myself how to use fusion 360, and trying out some prototyping
Its really fun
I come from an engineering background and have used CAD a lot - So I'm hoping to get the hang of my own prototyping pretty quickly.

Haha i dont do any 3d printing for money, it is a hobby that went way too far :p
Just a bit maybe, haha.
Have you done any mods to your CR-10S Pro V2, or just leaving it stock standard?
 
I come from an engineering background and have used CAD a lot - So I'm hoping to get the hang of my own prototyping pretty quickly.


Just a bit maybe, haha.
Have you done any mods to your CR-10S Pro V2, or just leaving it stock standard?

I pretty much do two things to all my printers

Replace the boden tube with a unicorn tube
Replace the bed surface with glass which i use pritt glue on

Those are the only 2 things i have done with the cr10s pro v2 and its printed well over 1000 hours with 0 issues and I have leveled the bed once before the first print. Its my go to printer because I can stick in the SD card in, press print and walk away and when i get back there is a print there everytime

1618409209577.png1618406495006.png

So that print above is at 0.2mm and the quality is insane

Ignore the dell sticks on the ender 3, they as the masts for the ship im printing
 
Funkiments now makes PLA! R225 per KG


Locally produced in East London.
 
Good day people of the south.
My DIY Hypercube printer. Prints awsome!
Next: Jubilee tool changing printer.
 

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Good day people of the south.
My DIY Hypercube printer. Prints awsome!
Next: Jubilee tool changing printer.
Sick stuff! What did the costs work out to to build something like that?

Also, does anyone know of a place that can build an enclosure for my resin printer. It's a Creality LD-001 and the default enclosure has just given up on me by warping and crumbling. It's super strange.
 
Sick stuff! What did the costs work out to to build something like that?

Also, does anyone know of a place that can build an enclosure for my resin printer. It's a Creality LD-001 and the default enclosure has just given up on me by warping and crumbling. It's super strange.
Would depend on which part of the enclosure has gone whacky. Maybe post a picture?
 
Sick stuff! What did the costs work out to to build something like that?
Not more than 8 grand (must add all the invoices to see) 300x300x300 print volume.
I know the aluminum modular profiles was R1800, print bed R650, power supply R600 (12v 400 watts 33amps should have opted for a 24v)
4x steppers at +-R350, MKS Gen 1.4 motherboard and display R600...etc
 
I think he replaced the Bowden tube with a Capricorn Premium PTFE tube...
Oooh that makes sense.
I googled and saw capricorn, but was convinced it must be unicorn [emoji23]

Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk
 
Uhm... what is this? I'm dumb and can't google.

Sorry I meant Capricorn tube thanks Wizard for pointing that one out ..... At work when we want to contact IT we use an app that has a picture of a unicorn and so we call IT the unicorn so thats stuck in my head and capricorn sounds the same :p

Either way, I normally order this one

 
Any one tried SBS filament yet :
I have not tried the filament myself yet, but now I am very tempted. Being able to smooth the print will be great for props etc.

The main advantage is that it can be dissolved by D-Limonene. That’s made of Orange apple skins.
For what I know the only other filament able to dissolve to smooth the surface of a 3D print is ABS, it will be dissolved by Aceton or Chloroform.
D-Limonene has the same effect on SBS: it makes it smooth and transparent.

 
Calling all willing to assist!

I've recently been struggling with PLA adhesion on my ender 3 pro. I have to set the nozzle so close to the bed, my first layers are almost transparent. I don't get the same hassles with PETG. It feels like I need to dial in the level after every print within 1 micron, otherwise I get a spaghetti mess on initial layer.

What do you guys suggest? I am printing CRON PLA at 195 and 55 bed. 40mm/s on the stock magnetic bed. I dial in the level as best I can but still have to fiddle with the knobs and restart a print 5 times before it actually sticks. I've tightened my Z axis so there's no play at all, but still have to re-level after every single print...

My nozzle is basically riding on the bed now initial layer.

I am seriously contemplating a bltouch at this point. Along with a carborundum glass bed.

Any thoughts?

@AAAH NUUU BRU pls halp.
 

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