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Project: H50 Dual Rad Mod - Shadow Copy

Janz

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Sorry all - going to try delete this post - my friends pics of the parts and finished rig i describe here are not going to be here in time so alas the rule is : no pics no post.


Anyone know how to delete a post? :eek:

Else i'll have to beg for a few days - and post some pics next week.....

-------------------------

Nice to see some daring or adventurous modders....

Specifically thanks to chowzen and his original post - that is why i named this one similarly - it just expands upon what was there.
PS - chowzen - unfortunately many of the pics in the post don't seem to display for me - photobucket placeholder - deleted or no longer there?

First - apologies - this is a boring picture less post - i never did take pics as i did this quite a while ago.
I will however ask my friend if he can take some pics of the installed system - if so i'll add them later.

Anyway - to add to the other post - modding the H series works like charm.

Dual H50 merge

Quite a while ago i had my first SFF build (which is now a friends) - using a Lanbox!
Using a Rampage Gene II - the then fav D0 920 and i think a GTX460 - worked super - but the Northbridge (or what it was then called) got near or over 59C when really pushing it.
So being a member of Overclockers.net (*getting me some of Dwoods GPU brackets - build log soon) i saw this mod and also pulled the pin on modding the H50.
I am not sure what the OP here did as i cannot see many nor specifically any of the final pics - but i guess two rads in series?

SORRY ABOUT NO PICS - i did this a year or two ago.
Had a H50 for the CPU - and another H50 "spare" from another build.
So i removed the LanBox H50 and took it and the other one to make a "dual" rad-n-pump mod.

Stripped the tubing off - got some Aquarium 6mm clear tube and some small cable ties.
Also got some of a friends bike's BMW coolant + distilled water (She used it for her GS800? Dunno exact specs).
Dremel and cable ties of course.
So we put the 2 x H50's in series.
One pump on the CPU of course.
Feeding to the next pump which was mounted on the N.Bridge.
Then into the first Rad --> into the next Rad --> to a old Thermaltake reservoir i had --> back to first pump.

Adding the reservoir was needed to keep air out of the system.

And bleeding the air out was quick!
Add all the tubing - and best to check lengths to be used and cut accordingly - to join the rads and also the pumps and reservoir.
One could use a temporary reservoir to just bleed it but: NB - i found the tubing "evaporates" the water very slowly over weeks and months.!!!

So consider having a permanent reservoir - the cup sized thermaltake one i used (locally available before i started importing myself) was topped up every 2 months or so.
Adding half a cup of "mix" water (30% BMW anti freeze to the rest which is plain distilled water) was the average.
So actually quite a bit of water gets 'lost' in the 'hot' Lanbox.

ALSO - any air will make a noise, diminish or cut off water flow and is just plain bad.
Apologies for often digressing - but the info i feel is important in this context.

So of the many AIO (all in one ) rad builds - both Corsair and Antec - about 10 so far - it always worked best having the Rad above the pump assembly.
Any air trapped would then be in the rad - NOT the poor pump which is fickle and sensitive to such things.
And the barbs /tubes always at the bottom of the rad. OK - sometimes i mounted them sideways - no ill effects noticed yet.
So any air will make a pocket at the header tank on the Rad - and no problem *****il it becomes so much that the rad tubes start sucking it in too)

In this build having the reservoir made this super easy to fill and bleed.
Rads and pumps all below the reservoir "low" mark or level.

Fill the reservoir with "mix" - Use a tube or cloth and 'blow' into the open cap of the reservoir to pressurize the system.
And unless you are a prof. blower (hehe) it wont hurt the pipes or system - but it will force the "mix" thru the system.
The moment you see it push past the second pump (clear 6mm tubes) - connect the pump(s) and continue the fill-n-blow method.
About 10 minutes or so and you are done.

Then leave it running for a few hours or overnight. That bleeds and allows the aerated "mix" to release all the air.
Best way - from my full-on water cooling days - was to stop-n-start the pumps. This makes pressure waves inside the system (then keep the reservoir cap closed!)
Jiggle the system on/off and soon you'll see no more bubbles...then it must run a while to bleed the "mix" itself.
ps - Tipping and 'shaking; each component -rad- rad - pump - pump - will allow any trapped air pockets to get out.

Thats it.

We built the dual H50 rad on a Saturday and it was up n running by afternoon and living happily since then.
Actually we were benching the Lanbox before my friend took it for home use - so when we saw the N.Bridge temps being a tad high we (me) decided nope - this needs fixing.
NB - make sure both pumps are running max - or controlled in concert for the best flow.
I had one per fan header on the MoBo as i hate the slight grinding noise those pumps make - especially when running 24/7 and late night early morning when the system is idling (no fan noise at all)

Hope it helps others who may want to do the same in similar situations.

One of my upcoming builds i am going to use a rad for the CPU and a rad for the GPU.
I first considered joining them...which may still have value but its so much easier doing AIO if one has long enough tubes (lol) and space for the rads AND fans.

all for now....
 
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