Need some Scratch Build Advice

[McDangerous]

Ahoy guys.

So I'm basically done with the design of my new HTPC/MainPC scratch chassis. I'm pretty happy with it currently, I just have a couple of questions in general.

1. I need recommendations on case feet. Currently the build is going to be matte black powder coat, so I want to offset that with some machined metal case feet. If I can't find ones I like I'll have some turned up at work (good thing working at a CNC Turning and Milling engineering works!), but it'll make the build take longer than I'd prefer. What have you guys used for case feet? What works well and is relatively inexpensive?

2. Power and reset buttons. So, I'm thinking of making a custom power switch and just leaving the reset button, never use it anyway. Problem is, I'm not sure which switches to buy that'll just fit into the motherboard headers. I'm a mechanical engineer, not electrical, so my knowledge is relatively limited regarding electrical supplies. Either I'm going for the custom power button integrated into my chassis' face plate, or I'd like to get my hands on a vandal switch, but importing is expensive and time-consuming.

3. Since the PC's going to be situated in the lounge I want it to be as clean and minimalist as possible. To this end I've made a face-plate for the front of the chassis, which will cover the two front 120mm intake fans. The plate will be spaced 15mm from the front face of the fans. It'll be only be 130mm high and completely open on the sides. As such, air will only be able to enter in the gap between the face plate and fan. Would this be enough to let in a decent amount of air? I've inspected chassis like the Silencio and my Elite 120 (which is going up for sale soon ) and they have very little space for the front intake fans to draw air from. I'm more concerned with noise than cooling to be honest, so keep that in mind.

I'll do some renders and upload the pics soon.

 

[Pr0ph3t]

1. & 2. Well if you want to buy them: Case Stands & Feet : Performance-PCs.com, ... sleeve it and they will come

3. I'm sure that gap will be fine, depending on fans it might be slightly noisier though.

 

[Off-The-Chart]

1. if you can make your own, go for it... if it will take longer than the the shipping option and be more expensive, than by all means, import

2. color scheme? I should still have WHITE RING vandal switch for power which I used on a Prodigy.

3. also think that should be fine. the noise would most likely be determined by the fans you going to use????

 

[Damin]

2. color scheme? I should still have WHITE RING vandal switch for power which I used on a Prodigy.

Thread hi-jack... where did you get you vandal switches? Local or imported?
I can get the standard aluminium 22 mm switches locally but my supplier cannot find the black anodized switches.
I have been looking into anodizing them myself but pretty sure the process will destroy the electronics.
Not willing to pay to import two switches.

 

[Off-The-Chart]

Imported [MENTION=895]Damin[/MENTION] when I had Prodigy

1x Black+Blue (16mm), 2x Black+White (16mm), 1x Black+White (19mm)

 

[McDangerous]

You wouldn't consider selling those switches by any chance would you? Specifically the white one. PM me, I'm very keen.

Thanks for the advice guys!

This build was cancelled first, but it's back on again, pending the sale of my current HTPC chassis.

 

[Off-The-Chart]

You wouldn't consider selling those switches by any chance would you? Specifically the white one. PM me, I'm very keen.

Thanks for the advice guys!

This build was cancelled first, but it's back on again, pending the sale of my current HTPC chassis.

which white one? the 19mm or one of the 16mm?

 

[McDangerous]

The either, but I guess the 16mm one would work fine.

What size hole is required to fit this switch? I need to incorporate it into my 3D model. Also, do you have the cables to connect this to the motherboard?

 

[Off-The-Chart]

Hehe, well 16mm

Unfortunately I do not have the cables anymore, but I will have a look tonight if I can make you up one. Just give me the length you may need.

 

[McDangerous]

It'll be around 460mm. It seems long, I know, but I'd rather err on the safe side with this.

 

[Off-The-Chart]

K, let me have a gander tonight. May not have the right gauge wire but definitely should have the connectors.

 

[McDangerous]

That would be awesome, thanks man!

Let me know how much you want for the switch/wiring.

 

[P3wP3w]

Imported [MENTION=895]Damin[/MENTION] when I had Prodigy

1x Black+Blue (16mm), 2x Black+White (16mm), 1x Black+White (19mm)

Yes! Those switches are excellent I got 2 from that [MENTION=8442]Off-The-Chart[/MENTION] oke ;p

 

[Off-The-Chart]

Yes! Those switches are excellent I got 2 from that @Off-The-Chart oke ;p

Hehehehehe, they still going nicely [MENTION=7227]P3wP3w[/MENTION]?

 

[Off-The-Chart]

k so, I had a look and as I thought, I don't have the correct gauge for that length.

I do have it but sadly in much shorter length. I am going to salvage the shorter ones and see if I can solder and heatshrink them nicely to get the full length.

as per the mobo header where you plug in all the POWER/RESET/HDD connectors in, how many will you be using?

asking, because for my own purpose, I had the idea of putting them all in a single 10-pin connector, instead of having them all separate and thus I bought 10-pin header connectors.

the vandal switch will use 4-pins (+- for POWER and +- for the LED)

note, the mobo will only provide 3V to the LED so it will also not be insanely bright (although I tested it with 12V and it still wasn't that bright)

 

[McDangerous]

That's actually a good thing, seeing as it's going into an HTPC, so I don't want an insanely bright light.

What length do you have with the right gauge? I can always mod the placement of the switch if it's a problem?

 

[Off-The-Chart]

I would say the longest would probably be about 20cm, if that even.

it's all cables from PCI adapters going to USB header, so they usually short.

let me check today if I can solder one nicely and then I will send you a pic of it and you can decide.

will also check if I can get the wire that I have, into the connector and if so, will be sorted to do the 490mm.

PM me an email or send me number to which I can whatsapp.

EDIT: think a good idea would be to get something like this - BitFenix BFA-MSC-2IO30KK-RP Alchemy Multisleeved(2) cable, 2pin I/O 30cm extensi [CH-BA2IOK] - R62 : Rebel Tech
then I just make you some of the excess... the thing with the switch is: you can connect a wire to it with this - Molex Permaseal P N 19164 0017 22 18AWG Heat Shrink Red Female Fiqd Conn 10pk | eBay however it sits very loose, or at least the ones that I used did... I would suggest something like having them soldered to it for better connection.

 

[McDangerous]

I am ordering some fans, so I might as well get that.

I'd be happy soldering the connections to the switch, don't see an issue with that.

I've PM'd you with my number.

 

[P3wP3w]

I would say the longest would probably be about 20cm, if that even.

it's all cables from PCI adapters going to USB header, so they usually short.

let me check today if I can solder one nicely and then I will send you a pic of it and you can decide.

will also check if I can get the wire that I have, into the connector and if so, will be sorted to do the 490mm.

PM me an email or send me number to which I can whatsapp.

EDIT: think a good idea would be to get something like this - BitFenix BFA-MSC-2IO30KK-RP Alchemy Multisleeved(2) cable, 2pin I/O 30cm extensi [CH-BA2IOK] - R62 : Rebel Tech
then I just make you some of the excess... the thing with the switch is: you can connect a wire to it with this - Molex Permaseal P N 19164 0017 22 18AWG Heat Shrink Red Female Fiqd Conn 10pk | eBay however it sits very loose, or at least the ones that I used did... I would suggest something like having them soldered to it for better connection.

Yes they do sit loose but if you use 4 of the 5 pins for the switch and LED they sit quite snug. I just wrapped them with some insulation tape and no issues of them coming loose.

 

[Off-The-Chart]

[MENTION=7227]P3wP3w[/MENTION] can you just confirm for me: it is 4 wires connecting to mobo yes?
[MENTION=273]McDangerous[/MENTION] found some nice 24AWG wire so managed to make them up... now only thing is, I won't be making the end that will connect to the switch, because I don't have those clips, but if you can solder, then that should be fine.

I got them as close to 490mm as I could, but you may end up using some for winding around the connections on the switch itself.

also, please confirm for me if your header on the mobo is FULL 10 PINS or not, so that I can see if I can use a connector from a USB/AUDIO cable (which has 1 pin on the end blocked off)

 

[P3wP3w]

[MENTION=7227]P3wP3w[/MENTION] can you just confirm for me: it is 4 wires connecting to mobo yes?
[MENTION=273]McDangerous[/MENTION] found some nice 24AWG wire so managed to make them up... now only thing is, I won't be making the end that will connect to the switch, because I don't have those clips, but if you can solder, then that should be fine.

I got them as close to 490mm as I could, but you may end up using some for winding around the connections on the switch itself.
also, please confirm for me if your header on the mobo is FULL 10 PINS or not, so that I can see if I can use a connector from a USB/AUDIO cable (which has 1 pin on the end blocked off)

Yup 4. 2 for the LED and 2 for the switch.

 

[McDangerous]

Awesome! Thanks man.

The mobo I'm using is a Zotac H67 wifi, and according to the image linked below it is a full 10 pin header.

http://www.zotacusa.com/media/catal...d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/h/6/h67itx-c-e_image1.jpg

 

[Off-The-Chart]

luckily had a look, it isn't full 10-pin

so I will plug the connectors in so long and put some tape around the + ends

ai, as if that ended up helping me

the 9-pin I have has the blocked pin on wrong side

 

[McDangerous]

Whoo! Awesome, thanks man!

 

[Off-The-Chart]

will give the switch and cable to bro tomorrow who stays in Pomona/Kempton Park.

just before you connect the header, just make double triple sure I put them in right place.

according to manual, if we take the NO PIN as #1 and we have #6 right next to #5, then it should be #6, #7, #8 and #9

 

[McDangerous]

That's perfect, and I'll check it to make sure it's right.

Thanks again OTC, I owe you. PM me the compensation you'd like and I'll sort it out.

 

[insert]

I'm loving this build! Keen to see pics as you go along!