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Geyser Switch

stiffxiii

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hi Guys

I purchased a geyser switch to switch the geyser on and off from my mobile, and possibly a schedule

I Purchased a CBI Astute (ASC)

Question/Suggestions:

My current DB Board cannot accomodate this. I need to purchase another DB Board, i see they are quite cheap. Also, what else is required? Wires etc?

Anyone know of a trusted installer that can install this for me that will not break the bank?

Thanks in advance
Cheers
Theo
 
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I've added 2 of these in my place, they work well.

Expanding the DB will be a bit of a mission, Cost will also add up quick. Kinda hard to gauge without knowing what your setup looks like currently, But from what I did at my in laws its easy enough to buy the surface mount box and move everything over. But even this will require some graft.

Just a note, these switches work great, However my only issue is if the power is off when the schedule is set to go on or off, it does not action it. So if not monitored you can end up with situations where the geyser does not turn on or off. A bit of a pain if you don't have backup power.
 
Why do you need a different DB board? If you have the older type switches you can always just install a separate DIN box and wire the switch to that. I'm not a electrician but this will be much cheaper than replacing your db board completely.
 
Why do you need a different DB board? If you have the older type switches you can always just install a separate DIN box and wire the switch to that. I'm not a electrician but this will be much cheaper than replacing your db board completely.
That was the idea, add rather than replace. Is it called a DIN board or DB Board?
 
Why do you need a different DB board? If you have the older type switches you can always just install a separate DIN box and wire the switch to that. I'm not a electrician but this will be much cheaper than replacing your db board completely.
Guess it would depend on the current setup, Like my DB, its full and cannot be added to due to where it is. I ended up adding a whole new DB in my garage next to my inverter. making it my primary DB and using the old existing one as DB2 that runs from the new main one.

Also made splitting essential and non essential circuits a lot easier. Also without having to rewire the whole house.
 
Get you electrician to add this: Hager GD102E enclosure to a space close to your db box that extends from your current geyser switch, that should solve your problem and be a fraction of the cost.
 
Is it called a DIN board or DB Board?
DB = Distribution Board
(DB Board = Distribution Board Board = dumb-dumb)
DIN = Deutsches Institut für Normung which is the German Institute for Standardization - it refers to the DIN rail which is a standardized electrical mounting rail found inside your DB
 
Thanks guys, im now even more confused than before. Seems like i would need
1. Extra DB Board (6 or 8 way)
2. DB board flip switch 2 way at least 30 amps
3. Wiring and trunking
4. Electrician to install and wire.

Going to cost me an arm and a leg it seems
 
DB = Distribution Board
(DB Board = Distribution Board Board = dumb-dumb)
DIN = Deutsches Institut für Normung which is the German Institute for Standardization - it refers to the DIN rail which is a standardized electrical mounting rail found inside your DB
thanks this makes sense. Does the DB Board come with a DIN or do i need to purchase them separately ?
 
You're overthinking this and making your own life difficult...

There are two standards of backing rails found in local Distribution Boards (DB's) --- Samite & DIN.

DB_Board_Adapter_DIN_Rail_to_Samite_Rail_Converter.jpg


The CBI breaker is designed to fit onto a Samite rail - so you'd need to use a plastic adapter to mount it onto a DIN rail.

That said, if you don't have space in your board to accommodate the breaker, and you're not planning to expand the house / install additional breakers in future, then leave the DB board the hell alone.... Leave your existing geyser breaker in place, return the CBI smart breaker, and buy the CBI Astute Isolator switch instead... You can then simply fit this in place of the mandatory isolator switch that should be mounted next to your geyser up in the ceiling. Turn off the breaker, undo the isolator switch face, disconnect, wire up the new isolator switch, mount, switch on the breaker, pair it... Job done.

If there's no isolator switch up there, then you fit one - buy a cheapy 2x4 surface mount plastic box, cut the wire feeding the geyser element (ensuring to switch off the breaker first), feed either end through the bottom and top of the plastic box, and wire it into the isolator switch.

Same functionality for control from your phone, and way less hassle than having to re-wire / upgrade / replace your DB.

If at all unsure on how to do ANY of this, find a reasonably priced electrician, and have him come do it for you, before you electrocute yourself or burn down the house.
 

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