Car oil: the brands on sale

[SteveIndeed]

[MENTION=18619]JollyJamma[/MENTION]

A '99 Corolla. Is it a 160 or a 130?

If it's a 160, it'll have the 4A-FE motor. If it's the 130, it'll have the 2E.

I have a '97 RSi which, truth be told, has a high-compression and highly-strung motor, famed for running its bearings if the oil used isn't up to scratch. Toyota insisted on using Castrol (ke rally sponsorship, bozza), much to the car's detriment: when I replaced the VVT pulley on the intake side, I flushed the motor using a bit of diesel chucked in with the existing oil. The sludge that poured out of that sump was mortifying. I obviously had to remove the tappet cover, too, and particles of sludge were everywhere. Since then, I have actively recommended that people steer well clear of Castrol.

I switched to Helix HX-3 20W-50 on the instruction of a man who's built numerous cars using the 20V 4A-GE Black- and Silvertop motors. I haven't looked back since.

My suggestion is that you use Helix HX-3 20W-50. Even though your motor is a low-stress unit, it'll likely have more than a few kilometres under its belt. 20W-50 is a slightly thicker oil, which will complement the age and wear-factors of your motor.

 

[JollyJamma]

@JollyJamma

A '99 Corolla. Is it a 160 or a 130?

If it's a 160, it'll have the 4A-FE motor. If it's the 130, it'll have the 2E.

I have a '97 RSi which, truth be told, has a high-compression and highly-strung motor, famed for running its bearings if the oil used isn't up to scratch. Toyota insisted on using Castrol (ke rally sponsorship, bozza), much to the car's detriment: when I replaced the VVT pulley on the intake side, I flushed the motor using a bit of diesel chucked in with the existing oil. The sludge that poured out of that sump was mortifying. I obviously had to remove the tappet cover, too, and particles of sludge were everywhere. Since then, I have actively recommended that people steer well clear of Castrol.

I switched to Helix HX-3 20W-50 on the instruction of a man who's built numerous cars using the 20V 4A-GE Black- and Silvertop motors. I haven't looked back since.

My suggestion is that you use Helix HX-3 20W-50. Even though your motor is a low-stress unit, it'll likely have more than a few kilometres under its belt. 20W-50 is a slightly thicker oil, which will complement the age and wear-factors of your motor.

Mine's a 160 4AE motor and I've heard about the sludge build up. I don't know how much of this is truly a problem with all Castrol oils per say as each oil may differ in sludge resistance.

I'm running a 10W40 oil. I'll switch to a 20W-50 as you said. It is coming up for 200K on the clock but still goes very well and bloody easy and cheap to fix.

(To replace the front discs and pads, rear suspension with Monroes, fit spark plugs and a petrol filter, radiator flush and coolant replacement, new wipers and labour was R4 961.00)

 

[SteveIndeed]

Mine's a 160 4AE motor and I've heard about the sludge build up. I don't know how much of this is truly a problem with all Castrol oils per say as each oil may differ in sludge resistance.

I'm running a 10W40 oil. I'll switch to a 20W-50 as you said. It is coming up for 200K on the clock but still goes very well and bloody easy and cheap to fix.

(To replace the front discs and pads, rear suspension with Monroes, fit spark plugs and a petrol filter, radiator flush and coolant replacement, new wipers and labour was R4 961.00)

Ah, yes, that motor is just loosening up now... Mine's on 390 000 and I've never had to open it up to replace any parts. These cars will run until the next century, given half the chance.

Where did you get all of that work done? It's no use taking older Corollas to the Toyota dealers anymore: the workshop appies haven't been trained to work on such old cars and although current Toyotas aren't much different to the older ones, there are subtle nuances that might be missed. I certainly wouldn't trust any dealer lackey with my 20V.

Look for HX-3 at a Checkers Hyper. They usually have the best prices out there. Do not buy it from Goldwagen - their prices are laughable.

 

[JollyJamma]

Ah, yes, that motor is just loosening up now... Mine's on 390 000 and I've never had to open it up to replace any parts. These cars will run until the next century, given half the chance.

Where did you get all of that work done? It's no use taking older Corollas to the Toyota dealers anymore: the workshop appies haven't been trained to work on such old cars and although current Toyotas aren't much different to the older ones, there are subtle nuances that might be missed. I certainly wouldn't trust any dealer lackey with my 20V.

Look for HX-3 at a Checkers Hyper. They usually have the best prices out there. Do not buy it from Goldwagen - their prices are laughable.

http://www.monacoauto.co.za

I spoke to them and they came across as very professional and very knowledgeable.

They never tried to BS me and did the work I needed at a very fair price. I even think they undercharged me for the labour costs.

I've seen my car advertised at dealers with "only 200 000km on the clock!" and selling for more than a far more recent Hyndai.



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[Hobo Joe]

I've heard bad things about an engine flush.

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I've never had an issue, I personally use it every 4th service (I change oil every 7500km) on an Audi S3.

Alternatively you can skip it... but I would recommend the sump service. The whole double oil change routine is not going to effectively clear any gunk that may be in the sump already.

 

[PCUSER]

I've never had an issue, I personally use it every 4th service (I change oil every 7500km) on an Audi S3.

Alternatively you can skip it... but I would recommend the sump service. The whole double oil change routine is not going to effectively clear any gunk that may be in the sump already.

But is that not the reason you must warm up the car before draining the oil? Will the gunk not move around with the engine idling? Then directly after switching off the engine, then you immediately drain the oil, while the gunk is still suspended? Just asking, not arguing.

 

[SteveIndeed]

But is that not the reason you must warm up the car before draining the oil? Will the gunk not move around with the engine idling? Then directly after switching off the engine, then you immediately drain the oil, while the gunk is still suspended? Just asking, not arguing.

You're partly right: warming the oil up a bit makes it thinner and therefore easier to drain, sludge or no sludge. It's best to get as much of the old oil out as possible.

The sludge is a different story. The viscosity and other chemical properties of sludge are different to that of ordinary oil. Sludge manages to bind itself to components and build-up in nooks and crannies, especially in the cylinder head. So, simply warming the oil isn't enough to dislodge the sludge; throwing in some diesel/cleaner - NEVER by itself, always with the existing oil - helps to dislodge it.

 

[JollyJamma]

Do not buy it from Goldwagen - their prices are laughable.

Where should I buy from? Midas?
Thanks

 

[SteveIndeed]

Where should I buy from? Midas?
Thanks

Have a look at Checkers Hyper. There might be specials on it this weekend, come to think of it - it's the end of the month!

PS. You must have had lots of offers on your car. I once had a guy offer me R50k for mine. My insurer values it at R29k. :highly_amused:

 

[JollyJamma]

Have a look at Checkers Hyper. There might be specials on it this weekend, come to think of it - it's the end of the month!

PS. You must have had lots of offers on your car. I once had a guy offer me R50k for mine. My insurer values it at R29k. :highly_amused:

Everytime I go to the shops I get an offer for my car. My car is valued at R33 000.00. I can get R80 000.00.

I've never seen that oil for sale at Checkers and I've looked. I think I need to go to Goldwagon and just bite the bullet. I'd rather do my oil change sooner rather than later.

I just check the pricing of the oils at Goldwagon, it was better than Tonneson.

 

[JollyJamma]

In the end I got TOURING HIGH TECH 20W-50 at R366.00. Aimed at higher mileage cars. Will see how it does. I'm going to flush my car out with Magnetec and then fill it with the Touring.

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[JollyJamma]

Ah, yes, that motor is just loosening up now... Mine's on 390 000 and I've never had to open it up to replace any parts. These cars will run until the next century, given half the chance.

Where did you get all of that work done? It's no use taking older Corollas to the Toyota dealers anymore: the workshop appies haven't been trained to work on such old cars and although current Toyotas aren't much different to the older ones, there are subtle nuances that might be missed. I certainly wouldn't trust any dealer lackey with my 20V.

Look for HX-3 at a Checkers Hyper. They usually have the best prices out there. Do not buy it from Goldwagen - their prices are laughable.

I actually swapped my oil out for a top of the range synthetic from Liqui Moly. The Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40.

I don't like high mileage oils as they add additives to make rubber oil joints swell. If you don't replace the additives they shrink and can lead to oil leaks.



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[Rickster]

Castrol recommends High Milage oil for car that have more than 120 000KM's, my Citroen C2 has 223 000 and I think on the next service I should switch from Castrol Edge to HM as there is a bit of ticking on the hydraulic lifters.

 

[JollyJamma]

Castrol recommends High Milage oil for car that have more than 120 000KM's, my Citroen C2 has 223 000 and I think on the next service I should switch from Castrol Edge to HM as there is a bit of ticking on the hydraulic lifters.

I'd speak to a mechanic first. High milage oils aren't always the best.
I saw this and it looks good but it's also a high milage oil with additives. I have no oil leaks at the moment so I won't use it.
https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000315/1300-SuperLeichtlauf10W-40-26.0-en.pdf

This is the one I purchased
https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000330/3863-LeichtlaufHighTech5W-40-23.0-en.pdf

 

[JollyJamma]

I found this helpful site. They actually list the oils and prices.
http://fastoil.co.za/Liqui-moly-Lubricants?sort=p.price&order=DESC

 

[JollyJamma]

So here's the oil I purchased being tested for protection

[video=youtube;B1qglKWPYys]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1qglKWPYys&vl=en[/video]
And here is a summary of all his results regarding wear per oil

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fbb9qtL-yWlzDPLzvxzpF01gRRtH8fKxeVtXt6HPpgg/edit#gid=0

 

[JollyJamma]

Just an update on the Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 (MB229.5) 5ltr

I had really bad tappet noise on my Corolla but since I put the Leichtlauf oil in, it's been much better and the hydrolifts have settled down a lot. I think it's because it's an oil aimed at VTEC engines or engines with variable valve technology which targets and lubricates valves more than other oils.

Definitely think it's worth the money considering how little it costs to run my car.

 

[Phence]

So you say Goldwagen is the best place for LiquiMoly?

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[JollyJamma]

So you say Goldwagen is the best place for LiquiMoly?

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No, go to Fastoil.co.za. Goldwagon is good but expensive.

 

[MeTsU]

No, go to Fastoil.co.za. Goldwagon is good but expensive.

I came across their website a few weeks ago. It would seem most of the local places in PE don't sell Liqui Moly anymore, and with GW pricing coming in at a premium I searched for an online store and found them.

Have you used them?

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[JollyJamma]

I came across their website a few weeks ago. It would seem most of the local places in PE don't sell Liqui Moly anymore, and with GW pricing coming in at a premium I searched for an online store and found them.

Have you used them?

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I haven't used them yet because I'd already purchased my oil. I'm sure they will be fine. Why don't you order and tell us your experience?

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[Francthetank]

I haven't used them yet because I'd already purchased my oil. I'm sure they will be fine. Why don't you order and tell us your experience?

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[MENTION=28040]MeTsU[/MENTION] (not sure if it adds you with an encapsulated reply...)

I checked them out quick, and my first red flag is the checkout process, and only the bank transfer payment method.

I'd would definitely avoid!

Facebook page has zero reviews, just many LiquiMoly and other motoring page shares.

Anyway, I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig!

 

[MeTsU]

Thanks [MENTION=18619]JollyJamma[/MENTION] - I'll pass. :biggrin-new:

[MENTION=28040]MeTsU[/MENTION] (not sure if it adds you with an encapsulated reply...)

I checked them out quick, and my first red flag is the checkout process, and only the bank transfer payment method.

I'd would definitely avoid!

Facebook page has zero reviews, just many LiquiMoly and other motoring page shares.

Anyway, I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig!

Thanks [MENTION=5280]Francthetank[/MENTION]

I came across the website (looked a little basic for my liking) and didn't get further to check it out - appreciate the digging.

I certainly won't be testing the waters with them.

 

[JollyJamma]

Yeah, you can just go into GoldWagon, pay a little more and actually see the product.

I think GoldWagon delivers too but you'd need to talk to them.

Certainly very happy with the oil I got, even if it was R650. I'd rather spend the extra monies and get a great oil than skimp and end up with troubles.

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[MeTsU]

Yeah, you can just go into GoldWagon, pay a little more and actually see the product.

I think GoldWagon delivers too but you'd need to talk to them.

Certainly very happy with the oil I got, even if it was R650. I'd rather spend the extra monies and get a great oil than skimp and end up with troubles.

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If I recall correctly, it was a R75 saving if I had to purchase from Fastoil - not worth the risk on an R800 engine oil.

 

[JollyJamma]

If I recall correctly, it was a R75 saving if I had to purchase from Fastoil - not worth the risk on an R800 engine oil.

Fair enough. Which one did you get? Synthoil Energy 0W40 5ltr?

 

[MeTsU]

Fair enough. Which one did you get? Synthoil Energy 0W40 5ltr?

Top Tec 4200 5W-30 - I needed VW grade 507.00.

https://products.liqui-moly.com/top-tec-4200-5w-30-6.html

 

[JollyJamma]

Top Tec 4200 5W-30 - I needed VW grade 507.00.

https://products.liqui-moly.com/top-tec-4200-5w-30-6.html

Let us know how it performs please.

 

[Skalabala]

You cant use 5W30 on an old car, it will run bearings.
If the car was running its early life on castrol its ruined. Done so many engine rebuilds throughout the years because of "calestrol". Even BMW engines.

Use Shell HX3, you need nothing more. Oil and oil filter change at 7500km.

 

[JollyJamma]

So from my testing of a R650 oil, all you need is Helix Ultra at almost half the price. Honestly. Don’t skimp but high end oil only applies to intense cars like a Mclaren or 458.


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