A4 2.0TDI - Jerking when accelerating

[Cxb3r]

P0301 has nothing to do with glowplug I am sure.
Do a compression test the correct way.
Has the N75 been replaced?

Will do that,

no the N75 has not been been replaced

 

[Supreme]

I check coolant and oil on a regular basis, doesn't use oil, and water is always normal levels.

No then you will have to take it to panic I'm fresh out of ideas, and I've had some crazy cases with TDi's. Would be able to diagnose if could drive the car, but I'm a bit far, and a bit busy 😫

 

[Skalabala]

Will do that,

no the N75 has not been been replaced

Well thats actually a common part that fails.
Check in live data. Boost target and actual boost. Log them and compare graphs.
Easy as that.
Your mechanics are potatoes

 

[Cxb3r]

Well thats actually a common part that fails.
Check in live data. Boost target and actual boost. Log them and compare graphs.
Easy as that.
Your mechanics are potatoes

They are potatoes, but they are the only ones here in Welkom, that is my frustration.

This Live Data, I am going to buy a Diagnostics Machine to do it myself, as I mentioned before, they don't really understand my point, they don't do tests in front of me as they only want to book in the car to test on live data.
The mechanics that does diagnostics in front of me, is normal code readers costs R350 - R450 each time, 5m time.

Can you recommend me a diagnostics machine for live data testing.

Will this work

Takealot

 

[Pynoxim]

Honestly just get yourself a clone VCDS 12.12 or newer (19.7 is what's currently out at the moment) as it's more comprehensive when it comes to your issue. If it's a hard jerking sensation then I wouldn't buy a new N75 at all, that's not going to solve your problem. If you unplug the N75 it should just run at gate pressure, if the issue goes away at gate pressure then you have a fuelling issue, if it doesn't your issue is unrelated to the N75 at all.

These early model BLB's are also known for oil pump failure and oil pump shaft failure, I would suggest you get someone to pull the oil pan off and have a good look to see if everything is okay down there. I've had a similar low RPM jerking from incorrect bearing clearances on my 2.0 Polo back in the day.

 

[Skylark]

I can't drive car there, and to tow it not going to happen, wish I could as in Welkom no one can help me now.

Getting your car to him will save in the long run and also save your sanity. I'd at least give him a call, he does collect vehicles with a trailer, I'm sure he will sort you out.

I bet you this issue is something relatively innocuous but counter intuitive, the exact thing that Stephan will have enough experience to pick up on.

 

[Cxb3r]

Honestly just get yourself a clone VCDS 12.12 or newer (19.7 is what's currently out at the moment) as it's more comprehensive when it comes to your issue. If it's a hard jerking sensation then I wouldn't buy a new N75 at all, that's not going to solve your problem. If you unplug the N75 it should just run at gate pressure, if the issue goes away at gate pressure then you have a fuelling issue, if it doesn't your issue is unrelated to the N75 at all.

These early model BLB's are also known for oil pump failure and oil pump shaft failure, I would suggest you get someone to pull the oil pan off and have a good look to see if everything is okay down there. I've had a similar low RPM jerking from incorrect bearing clearances on my 2.0 Polo back in the day.

Did also read article about the BLB and the oil pump failure.

 

[Cxb3r]

Honestly just get yourself a clone VCDS 12.12 or newer (19.7 is what's currently out at the moment) as it's more comprehensive when it comes to your issue. If it's a hard jerking sensation then I wouldn't buy a new N75 at all, that's not going to solve your problem. If you unplug the N75 it should just run at gate pressure, if the issue goes away at gate pressure then you have a fuelling issue, if it doesn't your issue is unrelated to the N75 at all.

These early model BLB's are also known for oil pump failure and oil pump shaft failure, I would suggest you get someone to pull the oil pan off and have a good look to see if everything is okay down there. I've had a similar low RPM jerking from incorrect bearing clearances on my 2.0 Polo back in the day.

were can I get a clone VCDS locally

 

[The_Analyst]

I'll be honest, I haven't read through the entire thread. Have you checked the crank position sensor? I know on my Alfa 156 petrol it would start playing up when it got hot, and wouldn't start until it cooled down again. Does it do it more at lower/higher RPM? edit: sorry, I see you said below 3k.

The crank position sensor is used to time the injection, and when they get hot the waveform can get bad enough that the ECU doesn't get the info it needs to accurately time the injection, so it might inject too late in the stroke so you don't get ignition, or it might not inject at all.

I don't want to be the guy that makes you go buy another part for your car.

Do those ELM327 Bluetooth dongles work for TDIs? I don't actually know what reading I'd look for.

Edit 2: Depending on how dirty you want to get, there's a few good tutorials on how to test a crank position sensor with a multi-meter, but if it's an intermittent failure it gets difficult. Does no-one around you have a TDI you could swap sensors out with to test?

 

[Pynoxim]

ELM327's are the succ, don't use them, they're just 100% pure turds.

Also, Gumtree, I've seen quite a few listed

Vcds | Auto Parts | Gumtree Classifieds South Africa

Find vcds ads in the Auto Parts section. Search Gumtree free online classified ads for vcds and more.

www.gumtree.co.za

 

[Wadkiller]

Any progress?

 

[Cxb3r]

I'll be honest, I haven't read through the entire thread. Have you checked the crank position sensor? I know on my Alfa 156 petrol it would start playing up when it got hot, and wouldn't start until it cooled down again. Does it do it more at lower/higher RPM? edit: sorry, I see you said below 3k.

The crank position sensor is used to time the injection, and when they get hot the waveform can get bad enough that the ECU doesn't get the info it needs to accurately time the injection, so it might inject too late in the stroke so you don't get ignition, or it might not inject at all.

I don't want to be the guy that makes you go buy another part for your car.

Do those ELM327 Bluetooth dongles work for TDIs? I don't actually know what reading I'd look for.

Edit 2: Depending on how dirty you want to get, there's a few good tutorials on how to test a crank position sensor with a multi-meter, but if it's an intermittent failure it gets difficult. Does no-one around you have a TDI you could swap sensors out with to test?

Thanks for info, crank position sensor was changed with a Goldwagen one. same problem

 

[Cxb3r]

Any progress?

Will update

 

[Cxb3r]

Cylinder one has a Misfire, P0301

What is it, click me

Took car to 2 guys here locally past week, and phoned a couple people for prices and opinions.

Can be vacuum leaks - did check and replaced and explained in above posts.
Spark Plug Or Coil packs, - my car is Diesel, did change filter and the glow-plugs.
Injector - did recon all 4 as mentioned in whole thread above.
Gasket head leak or blown - did not do anything to the head, and all the data is pointing me to the head gasket now with mecanics also mentioning the head gasket or compression ?.

Then something of the N75 Valve not working code I got.

----------------

so I am going to do the head gasket and buy a N75 valve, clean VNT vanes.


Problem now is money.

Cheapest Mechanic here in Welkom that can help me is asking me R4500 labor with my own parts to start with.

Yes, I can tow the car to a good Mechanic in JHB, or PTA, or suggested Mechanics like Panic, but at the end of the day it will work out even more and my problem is how do I get the car there and back. and no one can tell me a "final price" over the phone without checking it out first.

Compression test before I do the Head R1000.00 (now at the end of the day paying R1000 I can just do the head and get done with it)
R685 only head gasket (bough one)
Not sure price on skimming head
R700 N75 valve (still need one)
R2400 timing belt I am sure there are cheaper out there but for now it seems to be cheaper than Audi dealer, did not check goldwagen.
+- R3500 timing belt kit
1x Injector R3850 re-conned again. or 1x R13000 new or find 2nd hand one ....

Then the other problem is if they open up and there is something damaged or whatever aswell.

I am sure I don't have to do timing belt, but if I pay that labor fees, I can just aswell do the timing belt (as I don't see a timing belt change in the service book), I am just confused as to why a belt will cost R2400 ?

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Any suggestions or help will be appreciated.
If anyone knows where I can get the following mentioned above for a good price please let me know.
Also looking for a injector 2nd hand to buy or to test with mine.

VW, AUDI (BKD, BLB) 2L TDI - 2006 - 2008
03G130073G

 

[Cxb3r]

Also now saw this, Audi 2.0 TDI BLB without power [SOLVED]

VNT Vanes
N75

So maybe, I clean the Vanes with the "mr muscle trick" and get a new N75 valve ?

I do have stock MAP on ECU, so that is not a concern atm
MAF was replaced.

------------

Not sure if that will help with the jerkiness and misfire but then again read here

Also buying VCDS

 

[Pynoxim]

Cyl 1 misfire can only be injector or head gasket, if you open your coolant tank and then start your car, if there's a head gasket failure on Cyl 1 then you should be able to see cylinder pressure pulsing into the coolant bottle in the way of bubbles, alternatively buy a test that will tell you if there's anything in the coolant system that shouldn't be there. Also, you could probably buy a compression tester with the fitting that goes into the glow plug hole for less than they're charging you for the test.

Glow plugs are something we don't use here, the climate isn't cold enough, of course they're in the car but a dead one won't stop your car from firing on one cylinder because that's not their purpose, they only heat the cylinder to promote combustion under cold climates, they cycle for a very short time with the ignition on and then they turn off, once they're off they're not used again until the next time the ignition is cycled, they're not neccesary for the running of the engine otherwise.

Also Diesels have no vaccuum, that's why they run a tandem vaccuum pump that operates off the end of one of the two camshafts in your car. The pump supplies vaccuum to the brakes and also to the N75 etc.

Also, fix the misfire first then work on boost related issues, if the head is going to come off anyways to do a head gasket repair then you might as well pull the turbo off and pull the exhaust housing off to clean the vanes. Much easier than doing Mr Muscle stuff.

 

[franco1s]

Cyl 1 misfire can only be injector or head gasket, if you open your coolant tank and then start your car, if there's a head gasket failure on Cyl 1 then you should be able to see cylinder pressure pulsing into the coolant bottle in the way of bubbles, alternatively buy a test that will tell you if there's anything in the coolant system that shouldn't be there. Also, you could probably buy a compression tester with the fitting that goes into the glow plug hole for less than they're charging you for the test.

Glow plugs are something we don't use here, the climate isn't cold enough, of course they're in the car but a dead one won't stop your car from firing on one cylinder because that's not their purpose, they only heat the cylinder to promote combustion under cold climates, they cycle for a very short time with the ignition on and then they turn off, once they're off they're not used again until the next time the ignition is cycled, they're not neccesary for the running of the engine otherwise.

Also Diesels have no vaccuum, that's why they run a tandem vaccuum pump that operates off the end of one of the two camshafts in your car. The pump supplies vaccuum to the brakes and also to the N75 etc.

Also, fix the misfire first then work on boost related issues, if the head is going to come off anyways to do a head gasket repair then you might as well pull the turbo off and pull the exhaust housing off to clean the vanes. Much easier than doing Mr Muscle stuff.

Could be a failed lifter/s or burnt valve as well???

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Visited my family in Pretoria pre covid lockdown earlier this year and my cousins car didn't want to start, turned out his transponder chip was messing around, had a another cousin from Pretoria in Cape Town for business, asked him to collect some of my equipment, he brought it back and I wrote him a couple of chips, car started but misfired on 2 cylinders, removed the head (checked the lifters) and had 2 exhaust valves burnt on cyl 3 & 4 respectively, removed the head and replaced those valves, car was good afterwards, told him to replace his intake manifold as it's cracked by those 2 cylinders and that's likely the cause for those 2 valves burning

 

[Pynoxim]

That's also something that could happen, more uncommon on diesels than anything but I suppose is cylinder pressure or temp is high enough it could cause these issues. Generally those 2.0 TDI's suffer from strange timing related issues more than anything.

 

[Skalabala]

VAG engines do suffer from valve train problems, from diesel to petrol V8.

Another note, you can not just buy a new head gasket without having the old one out.
The gasket determines the gap between the head and piston. The gasket is marked with small holes 1/2/3/4

 

[Cxb3r]

VAG engines do suffer from valve train problems, from diesel to petrol V8.

Another note, you can not just buy a new head gasket without having the old one out.
The gasket determines the gap between the head and piston. The gasket is marked with small holes 1/2/3/4

Noted, the guy that sold me this head gasket from goldwagen did tell me I can't just buy one without sample, but this specific model of mine only has 1 as standard for the BLB engine, you get 2 different thickness apparently one for a non skimmed top and one for a skimmed top. so I bought the one for when the top is skimmed, as I will be Skimming the top anyway.

Also bought it as it was the only one and last one available at my branch and with these lock-down rules you never know what will happen next.
Did offer me to exchange it if wrong, just need to be unfitted, and need slip, they also marked it.

 

[Cxb3r]

Cyl 1 misfire can only be injector or head gasket, if you open your coolant tank and then start your car, if there's a head gasket failure on Cyl 1 then you should be able to see cylinder pressure pulsing into the coolant bottle in the way of bubbles, alternatively buy a test that will tell you if there's anything in the coolant system that shouldn't be there. Also, you could probably buy a compression tester with the fitting that goes into the glow plug hole for less than they're charging you for the test.

Glow plugs are something we don't use here, the climate isn't cold enough, of course they're in the car but a dead one won't stop your car from firing on one cylinder because that's not their purpose, they only heat the cylinder to promote combustion under cold climates, they cycle for a very short time with the ignition on and then they turn off, once they're off they're not used again until the next time the ignition is cycled, they're not neccesary for the running of the engine otherwise.

Also Diesels have no vaccuum, that's why they run a tandem vaccuum pump that operates off the end of one of the two camshafts in your car. The pump supplies vaccuum to the brakes and also to the N75 etc.

Also, fix the misfire first then work on boost related issues, if the head is going to come off anyways to do a head gasket repair then you might as well pull the turbo off and pull the exhaust housing off to clean the vanes. Much easier than doing Mr Muscle stuff.

Noted

Strange not sure why but as mentioned before, no bubbles in the coolant bottle, but car has a missfire.
Tells me it's injector, but as mentioned I did recon all 4, going to buy another one, recon or 2nd hand just to make sure anyway.
Tandem vaccuum pump was replaced with lift pump, did not replace N75
Glowplugs was replace, but yes fully agree.
Only reason I am considering the top gasket is everyone is pointing at it now.
If doing the head they can aswell pull the turbo off, I agree.

 

[Cxb3r]

Could be a failed lifter/s or burnt valve as well???

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Visited my family in Pretoria pre covid lockdown earlier this year and my cousins car didn't want to start, turned out his transponder chip was messing around, had a another cousin from Pretoria in Cape Town for business, asked him to collect some of my equipment, he brought it back and I wrote him a couple of chips, car started but misfired on 2 cylinders, removed the head (checked the lifters) and had 2 exhaust valves burnt on cyl 3 & 4 respectively, removed the head and replaced those valves, car was good afterwards, told him to replace his intake manifold as it's cracked by those 2 cylinders and that's likely the cause for those 2 valves burning

If I do the head, that might aswell be the case, will not surprise me

 

[franco1s]

If I do the head, that might aswell be the case, will not surprise me

Before removing the head, check the lifters on cyl 1 and compare to cyl 2 or whatever cyl doesn't misfire, also rockers and camshaft for excessive wear, get the vcds and do a live data reading as well, could save you quite a bit of money to check those 1st before stripping the head off, hopefully it's one of those things, heck I'd swap injectors 1 and 2 around to see if the misfire follows to cyl 2, if not, check the power connector to injector 1 also.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[ShabROIDS_ZA]

Assuming that you've checked the injector harness, do some live data through Vcds then send them my way (both under WOT/partial throttle) if possible.

Try to get hold of injection quantities (mg/stroke), injector durations, synchro angle (would be KW measurement value), boost actual vs specified, throttle position referenced across RPM (Engine Speed).

Intake pressures as well. Egr duty cycles (if active)

I work with diesels, vw/Audi/seat/skoda variants, in CPT however.

Failing that, take it up to Panic Mechanic (Stephan) as he's closer and would definitely be able isolate and resolve your issue.

 

[Skalabala]

Before removing the head, check the lifters on cyl 1 and compare to cyl 2 or whatever cyl doesn't misfire, also rockers and camshaft for excessive wear, get the vcds and do a live data reading as well, could save you quite a bit of money to check those 1st before stripping the head off, hopefully it's one of those things, heck I'd swap injectors 1 and 2 around to see if the misfire follows to cyl 2, if not, check the power connector to injector 1 also.

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Yes do this. Save money not waste it.
Swap injector 1 with 3 and see if the code becomes 303
Note do not swap 1 and 2 as you could be dealing with a bad gasket.

 

[Skylark]

What's news, fixed yet?
Just get a Honda Ballade and be done with it [emoji16]

 

[Skylark]

How are things going with the op's beast?

Sent from my SM-T825 using Tapatalk

 

[P1000]

I know someone who had very similar problems with a new Passat - the dealer changed so many things, eventually had a technician flown in from Germany to try to fix the problem. Are your tires the same?

 

[Cxb3r]

Jerking Audi is fixed,

Thank you Glen26, for lending me your VCDS

Injector was wide open (2.99) on cylinder number 1

Turns out the injectors I reconed was still the problem with my car, and not the head gasket as they and many others suggested.

Monday bought one injector from a scrapyard in Bloem, R3000.00 and today I replaced mine on cylinder number 1 at Auto Mechanic place in Welkom, Labor was R600.00

Car is 100% working, no jerking, nothing else is wrong, and drives like a new car.

 

[Skylark]

Awesome news!
Out of interest sake what was the cost to troubleshoot the issue to get to this point?