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A4 2.0TDI - Jerking when accelerating

This has been said on a number of occasions, but I have not seen any mention that you have actually spoken with Stephan van Tonder. Just reach out to the guy, he is genuinely a nice guy and few understand vehicles like him and he has a thing for VW/Audi.

You might not be able to get the vehicle to him, but perhaps with his guidance you can actually pinpoint the problem.
 
Stephan will sort it out asap, Look for Panic's Place on Facebook.
 
My Ford focus petrol turbo had an issue where it felt like I was driving on a very bumpy road. This was only uphill when the engine is under load, downhill was fine. If I kept the revs high then it was also fine. Ford said there was no compression in one of the cylinders. I've driven a non turbo car before with a burnt valve it felt nothing like that. I would say to try a compression test.
Is it a Auto? what year model?
 
This has been said on a number of occasions, but I have not seen any mention that you have actually spoken with Stephan van Tonder. Just reach out to the guy, he is genuinely a nice guy and few understand vehicles like him and he has a thing for VW/Audi.

You might not be able to get the vehicle to him, but perhaps with his guidance you can actually pinpoint the problem.

will do so
 
Stephan will sort it out asap, Look for Panic's Place on Facebook.

Do you have link for me or number, can't seem to find the right page with a Stephan van Tonder
 
Has any mechanic driven with the car with a laptop connected to it? Looking at the data while driving?
Logging data?
It could be as simple as air getting into the diesel.
 
Does the car jerk even when idling?
Sort of feels like a cammed up golf.

I'd say you need to plug it into VCDS and run diagnostics.
The injector values might be out...yes you tried a few mechanics but have they actually tested it while the car is at temperature?

I used to race the Polo 1.9TDi Sportlines and still use them as a rep vehicle, been through the mill with most of the issues.

List of mileage for my high mileage TDIs
1st Tdi 413 000km wanted a 2 Door
2nd Tdi 195 000km stolen
3rd Tdi 331 000km needed a bigger car
4th Tiguan 2.0tdi 382 000km currently.

You could also contact Llewellyn in Bloem, he's the local RK Motion dealer and will do an honest check for you.

Or alternately I could ship my VCDS cable to you with a flash drive with the software and you can try self diagnosing.

Drop me a message if you need a contact number
 
Injectors Tested, Injectors were 100% fine on test but I Re-conned them by Diesel Bosch Welkom R3200 each R12800.00

I did it with the only place in Welkom that can do it, (also they are a certified Bosch) and they did told me before I paid for the reconn that I am going to waste my money as the tests showed it was 100% fine anyway, so I did not listing and am not going to pay R13000 for 1 at Goldwagen and yes after I paid them to fix the injectors, it was still not the injectors, not even the diagnostics picks up a faulty injector, and still doesn't pick it up.

I have yet to meet anyone in SA with a modern Piezo test bed / service station. Unpopular opinion, and I'm probably going to step on a few toes now, but the majority of workshops that claim they can service newer injectors (post 2013), are just trying to make some quick money. I highly doubt that this is related. Certain Bosch Piezo injectors tend to get lazy after about 120 000km when they reach operating temperature and some of them can't even be serviced.(I'm unsure whether your engine uses these piezo injectors). Just telling my story. I fought with VW for 6 months before they escalated the phenomenon with my 1.6TDi Polo to someone who actually knew what was going on. They flashed some old map onto it and replaced one injector with a new one. I had exactly the same symptoms as you. Sold the car as soon as I got it back (It was 100% when I got it back from VW)
I drive an old Electro-Mechanical 1.9 TDi Jetta 4 now. I also have a 1992 mk2 Golf 1.6 GTD that I play around with. New isn't always better.
 
All of these speculations can simply be solved by live data, sigh.
Log the car, injector times and angles, crank signal etc etc etc.
Random question, is the injector "tappet" gap set correctly?
 
After reading Skala's comment about "tappet gap", I decided to look a bit further. I assumed that it was a common rail diesel, but I realized that this is an old pumpe deuse TDi motor. Disregard everything I said, it's probably not a faulty injector, and these injectors can in fact be serviced locally.
Check your tandem pump (Fuel & Vacuum). Vacuum side is a vane-type pump. Check for scoring on the inside of the aluminium housing. It must be smooth to the touch, no grooves. There are three aluminium lines running along the side of the valve cover. If I remember correctly, two of these lines are for fuel, and the other for coolant. Just follow the one that feeds the Fuel pump on the front of the cylinder head (by the cam). Vibration often causes these allu lines to chafe on the plastic retainers that keep them in place. Believe it or not, the plastic eats the allu. If it's got a leak, it's going to suck air and the pump will scavenge.
Also, these injector looms run inside the cylinder head, submerged in hot oil. The heat cycles take their toll on the wiring. If the valve cover comes off again, just check it for due diligence.
 
After reading Skala's comment about "tappet gap", I decided to look a bit further. I assumed that it was a common rail diesel, but I realized that this is an old pumpe deuse TDi motor. Disregard everything I said, it's probably not a faulty injector, and these injectors can in fact be serviced locally.
Check your tandem pump (Fuel & Vacuum). Vacuum side is a vane-type pump. Check for scoring on the inside of the aluminium housing. It must be smooth to the touch, no grooves. There are three aluminium lines running along the side of the valve cover. If I remember correctly, two of these lines are for fuel, and the other for coolant. Just follow the one that feeds the Fuel pump on the front of the cylinder head (by the cam). Vibration often causes these allu lines to chafe on the plastic retainers that keep them in place. Believe it or not, the plastic eats the allu. If it's got a leak, it's going to suck air and the pump will scavenge.
Also, these injector looms run inside the cylinder head, submerged in hot oil. The heat cycles take their toll on the wiring. If the valve cover comes off again, just check it for due diligence.

As mentioned before the place I re conned the injectors is the place all the mechanics in Welkom take their injectors to, even Mechanics at Audi in Welkom told me they use them as they are certified to do so. I am 100% confident it is not injectors, and they did do all they can numerous times to check the injectors for me.

injector loom was replaced as they also mentioned it. but it can be the wiring harness going from the loom to the ECU aswell and that is a bit expensive, but that I can't replace it, as it is moer expensive and 2nd hand I can't find anything.

As mentioned before aswell, I did replace the tandem pump (Fuel & Vacuum) that sits in front including new diesel filter, pipes, casket , Mechanic that helped checked pulley the pump runs on and the plastic bits, and to his knowledge pulley was still fine, gasket comes with new pump.

Also replace the pump inside the tank. it is also a Bosh
 
All of these speculations can simply be solved by live data, sigh.
Log the car, injector times and angles, crank signal etc etc etc.
Random question, is the injector "tappet" gap set correctly?

Next step I can do again is as you mentioned to get someone willing to test with Live Date while driving the car.

And will report back to you.

Not that I don't want to do it,

it is hard to find someone here that is willing to do that for me without booking in the car, I don't personally know someone to help me.

There is 1 place in Welkom that tests cars with Live Data (can't remember name)
They do it on a book your car in and collect after work,
so I will not know if they really drive it or not,

First time I did it they told me to buy the pump,

injector cylinder 1 was showing a open circuit so bough new loom before injectors was re-conned, as the place that recons the injectors told me to rather start with the loom,

also a oxygen sensor was on the data that I replaced with a dummy as I removed the CATS, and believe it or not they actually told me it might be my catalytic converter, and I removed it as I don't have R8000 for one.

Best Drive Welkom removed my Cats, and told me it will make no difference, the sensor was R240, but I got a dummy for free, and the Down pipe was also made by Best Drive Welkom,

now the JF Auto place I mentioned build a custom boost pipe from turbo side to intercooler with steel as the pipe had a crack and a patch thing going on there.

the rest of the Mechanics and shops test with normal diagnostics costing R450 each time for 5m ending with I don't see anything but I think it is your injectors story, that is why I ended up creating the thread because I am so frustrated by all these tests and money spend so far and not getting to the problem.

JF Auto also tests with Live Data, but they told me to book in the car and collect later, will not be the first time they do it for me. so I will search for a 3rd place to do so, frustrating
 
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Does the car jerk even when idling?
Sort of feels like a cammed up golf.

I'd say you need to plug it into VCDS and run diagnostics.
The injector values might be out...yes you tried a few mechanics but have they actually tested it while the car is at temperature?

I used to race the Polo 1.9TDi Sportlines and still use them as a rep vehicle, been through the mill with most of the issues.

List of mileage for my high mileage TDIs
1st Tdi 413 000km wanted a 2 Door
2nd Tdi 195 000km stolen
3rd Tdi 331 000km needed a bigger car
4th Tiguan 2.0tdi 382 000km currently.

You could also contact Llewellyn in Bloem, he's the local RK Motion dealer and will do an honest check for you.

Or alternately I could ship my VCDS cable to you with a flash drive with the software and you can try self diagnosing.

Drop me a message if you need a contact number



Only jerks when accelerating (hard or normal or slow under 3000 - 3500 rpm)
If you drive it like you stole it, there is still a softer jerk in low rpms

If you are willing to do this for me

VCDS cable to you with a flash drive with the software and you can try self diagnosing

appreciate it, this might actually help me in a big way, will pm you
 
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If you haven't yet, (it's been mentioned a few times) I would also say contact Panic, that dude is a master of his craft.
I'll see if I can get his contact details if you don't have it yet.
 
If you haven't yet, (it's been mentioned a few times) I would also say contact Panic, that dude is a master of his craft.
I'll see if I can get his contact details if you don't have it yet.

Have it thank you got it from VeloABF16v

need to bring him the car. I am in Welkom, so I need to tow it, and I can't do that atm.
Difficult to diagnose over the phone, need to look at it, as all that I mentioned seems strange wants to look at it first.

Thinks it might be 1 Injector. and as mentioned before I did the injectors all 4 of them.
If not, might be the head gasket.

Don't have a bakkie with a car trailer.
Can rent one for R450 but need something to tow it.
 
Today, went to Diesel Electric Welkom - The place that did my Injectors.

IMG-20200601-180739.jpg



Diagnostics show.

Code P0101 - Mass Air Flow Sensor

As mentioned on page 1

I did replace with a brand new Goldwagen MAF the complete unit, so is this Faulty again or need it to be cleared once replaced ?



Code P0301 Combustion Failure Cylinder 1 - Glow plug ?

I did change all 4 Glow Plugs as mentioned on page 1

Also I now did a full service with new Diesel filter, fuel pipes, cleaned the tank, Glow plugs, lift pump fuse, main fuse, all car fuses, and fuel pipes changed / R3500 job

Is it faulty, or did I not put it in right ?




Code P0299 Boost Pressure Control below control limit

New code did not get this before.

Now is this the actuator or N75 Valve or Turbo ?

Screenshot-2020-06-01-Audi-A4-B7-TDi-fault-code.png



Live Data:

Last there was something that is telling the live data there is a misfire on cylinder number 1
Now they told me that it might be the glow plug, the injector or head gasket might be blown on cylinder number 1




------------------

Battery Center Welkom Tested the Battery and Alternator and it is in good condition no faults.
Fuses was replaced aswell as mentioned before, this includes main fuse and all the fuses.

-----------------



As mentioned on page 1 when I started the thread,

I am left with 2x options now

Top gasket (No burning oil, and no boiling water or using water, temps is normal even if driving out of town 200km trips) Cost R5000 - R7000
Turbo (Spins freely, and no play, No smoke) Cost R9500 Turbo and if I import it R6000, then to fit R2000 ?


Reason why I say this is again.

I called Panic's Place and he think it might be injector or injectors.

Explained I did the injectors, he said well it seems you are left with the head gasket, but can't say yes it is it or no it is not, Do a compression test first.


Now Diesel Electric Welkom also saying that it might be the head gasket as cylinder number 1 has a misfire, with a glow plug not working or faulty or showing on the diagnostics as combustion issue, it might make sense to do the head gasket as maybe the cylinder on casket is torn or blown.

I will need to do a compression test.



-------------------

Gasket is R685 Goldwagen.

Code for the Gasket is 03G103383B


skimmed not sure if you must do it or not necessary to do so.

last to do everything including a Audi OEM Top Gasket was R5k to R7k if I do it at Mechanic so I am sure if I just buy the gasket from goldwagen and pay for the skimming my self, I am left with Labor from a place that will charge me R500 per 1 hour Labor only.


No Coolant leaking
No Bubbles in the radiator or coolant overflow tank
No Overheating engine
No White milky oil

Only when I start the car there is a puff of White smoke from the exhaust pipe for 30sec or so and it is gone
And now I know that the Glow Plug on Cylinder 1 is having some issues.


Now ffs injector again ?
Is it just the gasket maybe ?
Glow plug maybe ?

Need to start with compression test, and buy new glow plug.

Any suggestions will help.
 
Code P0299
This is one of the main things I would keep an eye on while doing live diagnostic.
It will not be a glow plug.
Doing a compression test on a diesel is not a simple task at all. Make sure you use a reputable place, usually R1000
 
So i just happened to come across this thread. I work at a car dealership and have had a few car related issues. Audi being 1 of the expensive fixes. I could be wrong as I can only read and not feel the situation.

We had a 2011 Audi A4 2.0tdi Auto that does the same thing at low revs and feels like its jerking but it not technically jerking. Very hard to explain and you need to drive it. In the end after months of different workshops it came to a problem in the gearbox itself. This is automatic though. If I remember correctly there is some electronic stuff in the gearbox that was faulty causing this "jerkiness".
 
Code P0299
This is one of the main things I would keep an eye on while doing live diagnostic.
It will not be a glow plug.
Doing a compression test on a diesel is not a simple task at all. Make sure you use a reputable place, usually R1000


Wish I was in JHB or PTA haha, but yes it is what it is.

What would you say to replace maybe

wastegate or pressure sensor or is it best to replace both.

Is the pressure sensor the same as the N75 Valve

Or do you think I need new Turbo or is it maybe actuator at vault, as I did clean the vanes and turbo, and the actuator seems to work fine, not stuck.

Will check for a live data test on turbo or on P0299
 
So i just happened to come across this thread. I work at a car dealership and have had a few car related issues. Audi being 1 of the expensive fixes. I could be wrong as I can only read and not feel the situation.

We had a 2011 Audi A4 2.0tdi Auto that does the same thing at low revs and feels like its jerking but it not technically jerking. Very hard to explain and you need to drive it. In the end after months of different workshops it came to a problem in the gearbox itself. This is automatic though. If I remember correctly there is some electronic stuff in the gearbox that was faulty causing this "jerkiness".

I know on the Automatics there is a sensor that causes jerkiness, they told me it is only on the automatics.

But I wonder if it isn't something to do with ESP system or a sensor, as when I turn ESP off, it seems that the jerkiness is not so ruff. and when on it is jerking all the way.

I remembered someone telling me there is a sensor that controls the ESP, and then it is on each wheel, and something about the gas pedal switch or something to do with the throttle sensor on the gas pedal.

Not sure if that would make any sense, and I can't find anything related to ESP and jerkiness".
 
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Code P0299
This is one of the main things I would keep an eye on while doing live diagnostic.
It will not be a glow plug.
Doing a compression test on a diesel is not a simple task at all. Make sure you use a reputable place, usually R1000

Would you suggest to do the Head Gasket or does it seem more Turbo related with Code P0299

With a head gasket blown,
will that mess around making it seem as it might be a faulty injector ? and maybe show code P0301 as the Glow Plug ?
But at the end it is maybe just a blown head gasket.

I will still do compression test to be sure, the live data on stuff from Code P0299 I will have it checked aswell just hard to get someone actually checking with live diagnostics, and not tell me to book in the car before they can tell me anything.
 
I know on the Automatics there is a sensor that causes jerkiness, they told me it is only on the automatics.

But I wonder if it isn't something to do with ESP system or a sensor, as when I turn ESP off, it seems that the jerkiness is not so ruff. and when on it is jerking all the way.

I remembered someone telling me there is a sensor that controls the ESP, and then it is on each wheel, and something about the gas pedal switch or something to do with the throttle sensor on the gas pedal.

Not sure if that would make any sense, and I can't find anything related to ESP and jerkiness".

Yes, It could be a faulty brake light switch as well. Your ESP light on the dash, will flash if it's a faulty / erratic wheel speed sensor. So maybe check how much a brake light switch is and if it's cheap, replace it. It's worth a try, and it's easy to swap out. There's probably more than one fault / problem, that's why it's so difficult to diagnose. Glow Plugs on VW TDi only ever work when ambient temp is lower than 10 degrees or so. You can pull them all out and plug the holes - It might be a bit more lazy to start in the morning is all. This might sound dumb, but have you tried a different coolant temp sensor?
A MAF fault shouldn't cause jerkiness; it will in fact just put the car in limp mode.
Compression test will tell you if you have mechanical problems ie. blown head gasket
 
Would you suggest to do the Head Gasket or does it seem more Turbo related with Code P0299

With a head gasket blown,
will that mess around making it seem as it might be a faulty injector ? and maybe show code P0301 as the Glow Plug ?
But at the end it is maybe just a blown head gasket.

I will still do compression test to be sure, the live data on stuff from Code P0299 I will have it checked aswell just hard to get someone actually checking with live diagnostics, and not tell me to book in the car before they can tell me anything.

Also, these Engines are infamous for cracked Cylinder heads. It's never normal to have to add coolant (or water, God save you) to your car every odd day or week. The coolant level must stay fairly consistent (it will expand and contract on temp change) over a period of say, 6 months. So if you have to put coolant in every few days, consider the fact that your cylinder head might be cracked, and it is now misfiring sporadically because it can't build up enough compression to generate the necessary energy to ignite the air/diesel mixture.
The compression test should give you an indication of this. If the test indicates irregular compression on one cylinder; if you pull the head off and the gasket is still in tact, you know the head is cracked.
I've had a case where a VW BKD engine had a hairline crack in the cylinder head, between one of the water jackets and the intake/exhaust runners. It doesn't leak coolant onto the floor, but the coolant disappears into the intake/exhaust when the engine has reached operating temperature (The crack also gets larger as the Allu expands under temperature). This also causes missfires / jerkiness. So if you coolant disappears, be weary. If you are planning on a new cylinder head, ask for an AMC head, from Alert Engine Spares.
 
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Would you suggest to do the Head Gasket or does it seem more Turbo related with Code P0299

With a head gasket blown,
will that mess around making it seem as it might be a faulty injector ? and maybe show code P0301 as the Glow Plug ?
But at the end it is maybe just a blown head gasket.

I will still do compression test to be sure, the live data on stuff from Code P0299 I will have it checked aswell just hard to get someone actually checking with live diagnostics, and not tell me to book in the car before they can tell me anything.
P0301 has nothing to do with glowplug I am sure.
Do a compression test the correct way.
Has the N75 been replaced?
 
Also, these Engines are infamous for cracked Cylinder heads. It's never normal to have to add coolant (or water, God save you) to your car every odd day or week. The coolant level must stay fairly consistent (it will expand and contract on temp change) over a period of say, 6 months. So if you have to put coolant in every few days, consider the fact that your cylinder head might be cracked, and it is now misfiring sporadically because it can't build up enough compression to generate the necessary energy to ignite the air/diesel mixture.

I check coolant and oil on a regular basis, doesn't use oil, and water is always normal levels.
 

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