P0301 has nothing to do with glowplug I am sure.
Do a compression test the correct way.
Has the N75 been replaced?
Will do that,
no the N75 has not been been replaced
P0301 has nothing to do with glowplug I am sure.
Do a compression test the correct way.
Has the N75 been replaced?
I check coolant and oil on a regular basis, doesn't use oil, and water is always normal levels.
Well thats actually a common part that fails.Will do that,
no the N75 has not been been replaced
Well thats actually a common part that fails.
Check in live data. Boost target and actual boost. Log them and compare graphs.
Easy as that.
Your mechanics are potatoes
Getting your car to him will save in the long run and also save your sanity. I'd at least give him a call, he does collect vehicles with a trailer, I'm sure he will sort you out.I can't drive car there, and to tow it not going to happen, wish I could as in Welkom no one can help me now.
Honestly just get yourself a clone VCDS 12.12 or newer (19.7 is what's currently out at the moment) as it's more comprehensive when it comes to your issue. If it's a hard jerking sensation then I wouldn't buy a new N75 at all, that's not going to solve your problem. If you unplug the N75 it should just run at gate pressure, if the issue goes away at gate pressure then you have a fuelling issue, if it doesn't your issue is unrelated to the N75 at all.
These early model BLB's are also known for oil pump failure and oil pump shaft failure, I would suggest you get someone to pull the oil pan off and have a good look to see if everything is okay down there. I've had a similar low RPM jerking from incorrect bearing clearances on my 2.0 Polo back in the day.
Honestly just get yourself a clone VCDS 12.12 or newer (19.7 is what's currently out at the moment) as it's more comprehensive when it comes to your issue. If it's a hard jerking sensation then I wouldn't buy a new N75 at all, that's not going to solve your problem. If you unplug the N75 it should just run at gate pressure, if the issue goes away at gate pressure then you have a fuelling issue, if it doesn't your issue is unrelated to the N75 at all.
These early model BLB's are also known for oil pump failure and oil pump shaft failure, I would suggest you get someone to pull the oil pan off and have a good look to see if everything is okay down there. I've had a similar low RPM jerking from incorrect bearing clearances on my 2.0 Polo back in the day.
I'll be honest, I haven't read through the entire thread. Have you checked the crank position sensor? I know on my Alfa 156 petrol it would start playing up when it got hot, and wouldn't start until it cooled down again. Does it do it more at lower/higher RPM? edit: sorry, I see you said below 3k.
The crank position sensor is used to time the injection, and when they get hot the waveform can get bad enough that the ECU doesn't get the info it needs to accurately time the injection, so it might inject too late in the stroke so you don't get ignition, or it might not inject at all.
I don't want to be the guy that makes you go buy another part for your car.
Do those ELM327 Bluetooth dongles work for TDIs? I don't actually know what reading I'd look for.
Edit 2: Depending on how dirty you want to get, there's a few good tutorials on how to test a crank position sensor with a multi-meter, but if it's an intermittent failure it gets difficult. Does no-one around you have a TDI you could swap sensors out with to test?
Any progress?
Yes, I can tow the car to a good Mechanic in JHB, or PTA, or suggested Mechanics like Panic, but at the end of the day it will work out even more and my problem is how do I get the car there and back. and no one can tell me a "final price" over the phone without checking it out first.
Could be a failed lifter/s or burnt valve as well???Cyl 1 misfire can only be injector or head gasket, if you open your coolant tank and then start your car, if there's a head gasket failure on Cyl 1 then you should be able to see cylinder pressure pulsing into the coolant bottle in the way of bubbles, alternatively buy a test that will tell you if there's anything in the coolant system that shouldn't be there. Also, you could probably buy a compression tester with the fitting that goes into the glow plug hole for less than they're charging you for the test.
Glow plugs are something we don't use here, the climate isn't cold enough, of course they're in the car but a dead one won't stop your car from firing on one cylinder because that's not their purpose, they only heat the cylinder to promote combustion under cold climates, they cycle for a very short time with the ignition on and then they turn off, once they're off they're not used again until the next time the ignition is cycled, they're not neccesary for the running of the engine otherwise.
Also Diesels have no vaccuum, that's why they run a tandem vaccuum pump that operates off the end of one of the two camshafts in your car. The pump supplies vaccuum to the brakes and also to the N75 etc.
Also, fix the misfire first then work on boost related issues, if the head is going to come off anyways to do a head gasket repair then you might as well pull the turbo off and pull the exhaust housing off to clean the vanes. Much easier than doing Mr Muscle stuff.
VAG engines do suffer from valve train problems, from diesel to petrol V8.
Another note, you can not just buy a new head gasket without having the old one out.
The gasket determines the gap between the head and piston. The gasket is marked with small holes 1/2/3/4
Cyl 1 misfire can only be injector or head gasket, if you open your coolant tank and then start your car, if there's a head gasket failure on Cyl 1 then you should be able to see cylinder pressure pulsing into the coolant bottle in the way of bubbles, alternatively buy a test that will tell you if there's anything in the coolant system that shouldn't be there. Also, you could probably buy a compression tester with the fitting that goes into the glow plug hole for less than they're charging you for the test.
Glow plugs are something we don't use here, the climate isn't cold enough, of course they're in the car but a dead one won't stop your car from firing on one cylinder because that's not their purpose, they only heat the cylinder to promote combustion under cold climates, they cycle for a very short time with the ignition on and then they turn off, once they're off they're not used again until the next time the ignition is cycled, they're not neccesary for the running of the engine otherwise.
Also Diesels have no vaccuum, that's why they run a tandem vaccuum pump that operates off the end of one of the two camshafts in your car. The pump supplies vaccuum to the brakes and also to the N75 etc.
Also, fix the misfire first then work on boost related issues, if the head is going to come off anyways to do a head gasket repair then you might as well pull the turbo off and pull the exhaust housing off to clean the vanes. Much easier than doing Mr Muscle stuff.
Could be a failed lifter/s or burnt valve as well???
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Visited my family in Pretoria pre covid lockdown earlier this year and my cousins car didn't want to start, turned out his transponder chip was messing around, had a another cousin from Pretoria in Cape Town for business, asked him to collect some of my equipment, he brought it back and I wrote him a couple of chips, car started but misfired on 2 cylinders, removed the head (checked the lifters) and had 2 exhaust valves burnt on cyl 3 & 4 respectively, removed the head and replaced those valves, car was good afterwards, told him to replace his intake manifold as it's cracked by those 2 cylinders and that's likely the cause for those 2 valves burning
Before removing the head, check the lifters on cyl 1 and compare to cyl 2 or whatever cyl doesn't misfire, also rockers and camshaft for excessive wear, get the vcds and do a live data reading as well, could save you quite a bit of money to check those 1st before stripping the head off, hopefully it's one of those things, heck I'd swap injectors 1 and 2 around to see if the misfire follows to cyl 2, if not, check the power connector to injector 1 also.If I do the head, that might aswell be the case, will not surprise me
Before removing the head, check the lifters on cyl 1 and compare to cyl 2 or whatever cyl doesn't misfire, also rockers and camshaft for excessive wear, get the vcds and do a live data reading as well, could save you quite a bit of money to check those 1st before stripping the head off, hopefully it's one of those things, heck I'd swap injectors 1 and 2 around to see if the misfire follows to cyl 2, if not, check the power connector to injector 1 also.
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