What's new
Carbonite

South Africa's Top Online Tech Classifieds!
Register a free account today to become a member! (No Under 18's)
Home of C.U.D.

Please Help Experts Needed

S

Sprint

Guest
Hey guys I hope someone with a bit of experience can weigh in here. I'm in a bit of a dilemma. I need help deciding between and Antec Kuhler 620 or a Cogage Arrow. I would be running two fans on either.

The problem I'm reaching now is my Hyper 212 is reaching its thermal ceiling with summer approaching. Example:

Ambient was a warm summer afternoon
2500k @ 4.2ghz Vcore 1.308 Running IBT

LOAD = 77 Degrees on hottest core

2500k @ 4.5ghz Vcore 1.400 Running IBT

LOAD = 92 Degrees on hottest core

Now all the sites I've visited show the Hyper 212 Plus at the top end of the pack when the Fan is running at top speed. Will the Cogage Arrow or Antec kuhler 620 make a significant dent in my Load temp in comparison to the Hyper 212?
Fan noise isn't a problem as everything will be wired off a PWM Control wire which will scale the fans according to temps.

Please hit me up with some suggestions.

PS its not my case airflow, temps only rise 2 Degrees with the side on.
PSS I just remembered something. Will the Kuhler 620 compromise my VRM cooling since it wont have a fan in that area?
 
Last edited:
92C !!!! Where are you running your PC, near the Sun??? :p

But seriously now... are you sure it is your cooler... sound like a thermal coupling problem?
Have you changed your thermal paste? And are you sure your fans are running at full in the correct directions... sorry realise these are stupid questions.
just my 2c
 
I don't understand. That 212 is a good cooler. Is your whole setup sitting flush with the CPU? Even at 5ghz that cooler shouldn't struggle.
 
The Hyper 212 plus has a limit at 1.3V on your CPU.

I would suggest NOT running your CPU at 1.4V cause it will really hurt your CPU in the long run.
The Antec 620 will make a difference if you use it as an intake to get the coolest air over the cooler.

I would strongly rather getting a proper cooler, Thermalright True/ Venom X or silver arrow/Noctua D14
they can all handle 1.4V and up.
 
Do NOT run your WC as an intake unless you have proper airflow inside your case to ensure the hot air gets removed ASAP. Rather have the airflow in a wat that cool air hits the rad on exhaust. I have done quite a lot of research on the matter and it's been proven that running the rad on exhaust is better than intake. It doesn't help you getting your CPU a little cooler, but the rest of your system runs hotter.

With that said. The best coolers, other than custom WC is still the Noctua NH-D14 or the Cocage Silver Arrow. These are best performance air coolers. The H70 and the newer H100 aren't that far behind and show very similar temps up to a certain threshold, which these then become ineffective and hit a ceiling. If you want to push your CPU as far as possible, get one of the air coolers. If you do moderate OC, the WC stuff will work fine. Just remember that these air coolers are HUGE and also require very good air movement inside your case. Just like any other system really.
 
Your vcores are quite high, sure you cant run it at 4.2 at lower than 1.3? I'm doing 4.2 at 1.24...

Also that is quite a high load, mine never goes over 60 (hottest core) in prime (and that was during a heat wave in the summer, benched it then on purpose for 'worst case scenario').
 
Do NOT run your WC as an intake unless you have proper airflow inside your case to ensure the hot air gets removed ASAP. Rather have the airflow in a wat that cool air hits the rad on exhaust. I have done quite a lot of research on the matter and it's been proven that running the rad on exhaust is better than intake. It doesn't help you getting your CPU a little cooler, but the rest of your system runs hotter.

With that said. The best coolers, other than custom WC is still the Noctua NH-D14 or the Cocage Silver Arrow. These are best performance air coolers. The H70 and the newer H100 aren't that far behind and show very similar temps up to a certain threshold, which these then become ineffective and hit a ceiling. If you want to push your CPU as far as possible, get one of the air coolers. If you do moderate OC, the WC stuff will work fine. Just remember that these air coolers are HUGE and also require very good air movement inside your case. Just like any other system really.


All you need for a WC to run as an intake is top extaction. Had the H50(intake) and now the H100(exhaust), which really is a beast. Chassis like the HAF's, Corsair's, 690 II's, anything like that will be sufficient.

Hot air over the WC's make them not very good at all. Temps really then are bad.

The H100 is the best Cooler on the market, beating both the Thermalright Silver Arrow and D14 under heavy overclocking(1.4V and up on i7 920's/950's).
The Cogage Arrow is not as good as the Thermalright one, even though it is the same company.
 
The Hyper 212 plus has a limit at 1.3V on your CPU.

I would suggest NOT running your CPU at 1.4V cause it will really hurt your CPU in the long run.
The Antec 620 will make a difference if you use it as an intake to get the coolest air over the cooler.

I would strongly rather getting a proper cooler, Thermalright True/ Venom X or silver arrow/Noctua D14
they can all handle 1.4V and up.

I agree. I can get the Antec Kuhler 620 for R550- is it worth it over the Arrow?
 
Your vcores are quite high, sure you cant run it at 4.2 at lower than 1.3? I'm doing 4.2 at 1.24...

Also that is quite a high load, mine never goes over 60 (hottest core) in prime (and that was during a heat wave in the summer, benched it then on purpose for 'worst case scenario').

I'm running an ECS P67H2-A3 Mobo. It cost R800 so the you can imagine it needs a bit more on the CPU Vcore due to poorer power delivery circuitry than say a P8P67.

1.4v really is the minimum for stability for my combination.
 
Your vcores are quite high, sure you cant run it at 4.2 at lower than 1.3? I'm doing 4.2 at 1.24...

Also that is quite a high load, mine never goes over 60 (hottest core) in prime (and that was during a heat wave in the summer, benched it then on purpose for 'worst case scenario').

Prime 95 gave me 10 Degrees lower than IBT, nothing makes an Intel CPU as hot as Intel Burn Test!
 
Do NOT run your WC as an intake unless you have proper airflow inside your case to ensure the hot air gets removed ASAP. Rather have the airflow in a wat that cool air hits the rad on exhaust. I have done quite a lot of research on the matter and it's been proven that running the rad on exhaust is better than intake. It doesn't help you getting your CPU a little cooler, but the rest of your system runs hotter.

With that said. The best coolers, other than custom WC is still the Noctua NH-D14 or the Cocage Silver Arrow. These are best performance air coolers. The H70 and the newer H100 aren't that far behind and show very similar temps up to a certain threshold, which these then become ineffective and hit a ceiling. If you want to push your CPU as far as possible, get one of the air coolers. If you do moderate OC, the WC stuff will work fine. Just remember that these air coolers are HUGE and also require very good air movement inside your case. Just like any other system really.

I agree with you that the Rad shouldn't be an intake, Its a scientific fact that as you pressurize air (intake) it heats up.
Are you saying the Arrow etc aircoolers have higher TDP capabilites than H70?
 
I agree with you that the Rad shouldn't be an intake, Its a scientific fact that as you pressurize air (intake) it heats up.
Are you saying the Arrow etc aircoolers have higher TDP capabilites than H70?

I agree too, but not a sausage is a Rad's fan going to pressurize your PC case!
 
Anyone with some insight on H70 VS Cogage arrow with regards to Very high Vcore?
 
Silverlight Would you mind telling me your Vcore for your 2600K@4.8Ghz?

1.34v

Vantage with 8 threads 1.52v is doable aswell as SPi 2 threads 1.6v on air.

I've used an H50 and a H70 they didn't cool as well as my Arrow even with push/pull sickleflows (Don't like these fans but they cheap) :)
 
Last edited:
Working with the flow of air, 2 sides intake, 2 sides exhaust. By default intake is front + bottom, hence exhaust is back + top. If you add back to intake, you create a disrupted airflow.

Also, your GPUs are pushing the hottest air out the back, which rises and gets pulled in through the rad.

Not a very clever idea.
 
Look closely, you'll find that point is just stated as a second reason.

The choice is up to you, you asked the question, I just gave you the best advice that I could. Use it, don't use it...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom