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Might have fried my PSU, PLEASE HELP

Ravin'

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Hi Guys, This may turn in to quite a story but I'll try keep it short.

I think I fried my PSU yesterday but I have a feeling there's still some life in it, what can I do?

Just want to say firstly that this isn't my first rodeo with modding a PSU, I have opened up and changed many of them without problem before, thus my current confusion.

Here goes, I have a Rosewill Lightning 800 Watt Power Supply, Link:
I bought the PSU from Amazon earlier this year in March, I did a whole lot of searching beforehand and the PSU choice in SA is laughable. So I went abroad. Anyway the PSU boasted 80Plus Gold efficiency and a 7 YEAR WARRANTY.

So now to my problem. I've always loved the look of individual cable sleeving and always wanted to try, but with this PSU being only semi-modular and using Pipe-Rock cables I knew it would be tough, but hey, my PC is literally one hell of a custom build and I like a challenge. So I ordered me some paracord and it arrived on Thursday last week. So on Saturday morning I started going ham. It took me forever and it was one hell of a job but I eventually got finished yesterday afternoon and I must say, it looks AMAZING! So good I can't even explain, I can't post pics now because I'm at work but I will when I get home.

Going against all my reasoning and gut feeling, I decide to open the PSU (Voiding my 7 Year warranty) to make the sleeve look a bit neater going in, which it now does. So when I'm done I put it all back together and plug it in and WHAM, a bit of power then a pop and some nice white smoke from the PSU. I NEED TO SAY that I did NOT change anything hardware related inside the PSU nor fiddle with anything, I literally tied the sleeve to the cables. So in my mind, nothing I did should have caused the PSU to break, but something obviously did.

Now the Diagnosis, I opened the PSU once again and tried to source the problem, after some high tech sniffing, It seems like the problem is the small PCB on which the main AC input port is attached as well as the little on/off switch (This PCB contains X and Y capacitors and a coil. It is then connected to the main PCB with 3 cables Red/Green/Black). So I think that if I replace that board or its components I should be schweet.

Current Situation: When the PSU is connected to the PC and the AC cable is in, the power button on my Motherboard is illuminated so it is getting some power. Then when I press the power button everything switches on for about half a second then goes off again.
Note that when I plug the AC into the PSU and switch the on/off switch ON, the PSU makes a click sound and the mobo light illuminates (it has always done this) then when I pull the AC cable out, after about 10 seconds it makes another clicking sound. Also note that when I try powering on, and it goes on for like half a second, I have to unplug and replug the AC cable to do that again otherwise it just does nothing.

MY IDEA: I think that the PSU may be short-circuiting and going into protection mode every time I try switching it on thus not letting it power up. (The PSU has all sorts of protection features) So this being, I don't know what popped and why if this is the case.

MY PROBLEM: It obviously has no warranty left and I don't want to send it to the US to get fixed because I may as well buy a new one which I most probably will do but I still want to know if I can save this one because its really an awesome PSU and I love it.

So please guys if anyone has any ideas on what I can do, please let me know.
Also please don't just post comments on how "I shouldn't have opened the PSU", don't want to hear it.

Thanks in advance :)
 
1. Try resetting the BIOS?
2. Start the beast up with no RAM at all, it should make three beeping sounds.
3. Next check the CPU socket for damage to the pins? Who knows...
4. Next idea is to "breadboard" the motherboard. So take out CPU + Cooler, RAM, mobo and PSU from case. Connect these up while on a box or something not conductive and see if it posts then.
5. Failing that I would say try another PSU after the above steps.
 
Take it to someone that does electronic repairs, they should be able to diagnose and repair it. Dont go fiddling in there, those big caps can kill you.
 
1. Try resetting the BIOS?
2. Start the beast up with no RAM at all, it should make three beeping sounds.
3. Next check the CPU socket for damage to the pins? Who knows...
4. Next idea is to "breadboard" the motherboard. So take out CPU + Cooler, RAM, mobo and PSU from case. Connect these up while on a box or something not conductive and see if it posts then.
5. Failing that I would say try another PSU after the above steps.

Thanks for the reply, but I can't do any of that as the PSU doesn't power up for more than like half a second, even when I jump it. So the problem is definitely the PSU.
 
Take it to someone that does electronic repairs, they should be able to diagnose and repair it. Dont go fiddling in there, those big caps can kill you.

I think that might be my best bet, know of anyone I could contact or take it to?
Thanks :)
 
I think that might be my best bet, know of anyone I could contact or take it to?
Thanks :)

I know a guy but he is a bit far from paarl.
Look for anyone in your area that fixes audio gear, they usually know about power supplies.
 
My philosophy is this.. if god wanted you to fly, he would have given you wings.
There's a reason why you shouldn't mess around with electricity and it's components...
 
My philosophy is this.. if god wanted you to fly, he would have given you wings.
There's a reason why you shouldn't mess around with electricity and it's components...

That is a very bad analogy and philosophy...
If the heavens wanted us to swim, it would have given us fins... that is why you never upgrade a PC..., etc.

It was just a fluke, may a metal shaving fell on the PCB that came loose when the screws were undone, maybe it was just time for the supply to pop a bad part, maybe the cables you sleeved were not soldered properly and they shorted, etc.
Look for anyone fixing TV's, radios and if you are desperate, cell phone repair shops (although I doubt they will do any good), they should be able to help you, that is if you can source the parts locally!

Another option if to take it to a repair shop mentioned above, let them show you exactly what went POP and ebay that part number.
 
That is a very bad analogy and philosophy...
If the heavens wanted us to swim, it would have given us fins... that is why you never upgrade a PC..., etc.

It was just a fluke, may a metal shaving fell on the PCB that came loose when the screws were undone, maybe it was just time for the supply to pop a bad part, maybe the cables you sleeved were not soldered properly and they shorted, etc.
Look for anyone fixing TV's, radios and if you are desperate, cell phone repair shops (although I doubt they will do any good), they should be able to help you, that is if you can source the parts locally!

Another option if to take it to a repair shop mentioned above, let them show you exactly what went POP and ebay that part number.

Yeah I agree, [MENTION=33653]ArriBen[/MENTION] makes no sense, if everyone abode to that "philosophy" then DIY wouldn't exist and nobody would do anything creative or unique. As I said, I've done lots of custom jobbies, just this one that bit me XD

But thanks so much for your input, I'm going to give someone a call today after work, he does all sorts of electronic repairs, radios, tv's and such so hopefully he will be able to help me. The parts shouldn't be too difficult to source, just some basic capacitors and coils.

Thanks again :)
 
Have you tried the PSU in another machine? Or on a test bench? Sounds like something is touching somewhere and shorting. Also you say that the local choice of PSu's are laughable yet you bought a Superflower OEM PSU from Amazon?

Super Flower SF-850F14MG Leadex 850W 80 Plus Gold Certified Fully Modular Desktop Power Supply - Wootware is the rplacement for yours which is no longer manufactured.

I tried powering it up by jumping it, and still no luck.

And yeah I didn't want to go with the common selection lol, It's a Rosewill but yes it's basically just a name change, Insides are the same as the SuperFlower. I have no regrets in buying the PSU, It did me well until now and this could have been my fault.
 
I tried powering it up by jumping it, and still no luck.

And yeah I didn't want to go with the common selection lol, It's a Rosewill but yes it's basically just a name change, Insides are the same as the SuperFlower. I have no regrets in buying the PSU, It did me well until now and this could have been my fault.

Sorry did not mean to be down on you also fell foul of a OCZ 950w which was sold to me with local warranty and guy lied(not on carb), I have the EVGA 1300w which is a Superflower too. If bridging does not work then the PSU is dead sorry to say so at least you know you have options. :D
 
Sorry did not mean to be down on you also fell foul of a OCZ 950w which was sold to me with local warranty and guy lied(not on carb), I have the EVGA 1300w which is a Superflower too. If bridging does not work then the PSU is dead sorry to say so at least you know you have options. :D

Yeah I thought so at first but it goes on for half a second then off again so something tells me its just a protection feature. I'm having a guy take a look at it today so I'll post updates on progress :)

Thanks for all the input everyone.
 

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