IIs this fixable? Blown chip on GPU

[Stingrat]

Hi guys

My son's pc wouldn't post today. Having a look on the card and seeing this on the back. Is it fixable? Its a RX580

 

[dainluke]

Hi guys

My son's pc wouldn't post today. Having a look on the card and seeing this on the back. Is it fixable? Its a RX580

As long as there isn't damage to the actual PCB then it should be a simple replacement for someone who knows how to solder.

 

[solz]

Definitely fixable, but would really depend also on what caused it to blow like that.
As replacing it might just not fix the card as more might be wrong.

 

[CyFi]

Hi guys

My son's pc wouldn't post today. Having a look on the card and seeing this on the back. Is it fixable? Its a RX580

Yes. Just yank it off with a plier. No need to replace.

PC517 is an MLCC capacitor. Right now it is shorting the 6+2 pin pcie power connector to ground. Once you remove it the short should be gone. There is no need to replace it because there are numerous other capacitors in parallel that perform the same function.

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Image z-Tqn-CQf-AWge37k-ZQx-OMu1-3-Uvho-HURJpq-Dzc-LXSZJAFFSViz-XNLB4-Ci-Y-f-DELqws-Ag4-w1200-h630-p hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

 

[SnowmanZA]

I agree with @CyFi, I don't have schematics, but even just in the picture you posted of the damaged cap you can see that there are others in parallel with it such as PC521, C601, C696 and by the look of it there are probably more that are not visible in the picture. I would just remove it (nicely if possible) and see if the problem goes away. The failure mode of multi-layer ceramic capacitors does often seem to be short circuit.

 

[atunguyd]

Yes. Just yank it off with a plier. No need to replace.

PC517 is an MLCC capacitor. Right now it is shorting the 6+2 pin pcie power connector to ground. Once you remove it the short should be gone. There is no need to replace it because there are numerous other capacitors in parallel that perform the same function.

z-Tqn-CQf-AWge37k-ZQx-OMu1-3-Uvho-HURJpq-Dzc-LXSZJAFFSViz-XNLB4-Ci-Y-f-DELqws-Ag4-w1200-h630-p hosted at ImgBB

Image z-Tqn-CQf-AWge37k-ZQx-OMu1-3-Uvho-HURJpq-Dzc-LXSZJAFFSViz-XNLB4-Ci-Y-f-DELqws-Ag4-w1200-h630-p hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Don't yank it off with pliers you will damage the foot print and potentially even pull a track off.

Get someone to remove it with a Soldering iron. At least that way you can replace it with another cap if necessary they are a 10c psrt

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

 

[Stingrat]

Thx for the replies

So i need to take the fan and heatsinks off to ge to the soldering.

Will give that a go, why not

 

[Stingrat]

Urgh, found another popped one. Im wondering if some kind of surge did it, or simply old age.

 

[thePridge]

Thx for the replies

So i need to take the fan and heatsinks off to ge to the soldering.

Will give that a go, why not

It's a surface mount component... the soldering is on each side of the component, not on the other side of the board.

 

[virus786]

Urgh, found another popped one. Im wondering if some kind of surge did it, or simply old age.

What PSU is running in your son's machine?

 

[ThatGuyJD]

There's definitely a issue on the card that's causing them to blow. Would do inspection to see what it causing the failures before just powering it back on and hoping for the best.

 

[CyFi]

Don't yank it off with pliers you will damage the foot print and potentially even pull a track off.

Get someone to remove it with a Soldering iron. At least that way you can replace it with another cap if necessary they are a 10c psrt

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

You really haven't had experience with these have you? It's brittle right now, so you could simply scrape it off. And it really does not need to be replaced. Whatever damage was already done to the track usually doesn't matter because of all the other caps in parallel. Unless ofcourse there's fusion of the tracks from power to ground, then it would need to be separated.

 

[thePridge]

You really haven't had experience with these have you? It's brittle right now, so you could simply scrape it off. And it really does not need to be replaced. Whatever damage was already done to the track usually doesn't matter because of all the other caps in parallel. Unless ofcourse there's fusion of the tracks from power to ground, then it would need to be separated.

I don't think OP has experience either... so they COULD end up ripping tracks off along with the solder. They might not understand that if you just "crumble" the cap you break the circuit (fixing the short)... They might try pull everything off, including the solder... I've ripped tracks off like a dumbass when trying to "harvest" components by pulling them off of the board instead of desoldering first (I don't do that anymore ... lol)

 

[SnowmanZA]

I have used side cutters to break caps like that (desperate times and all that), you can break the middle without ripping the ends off along with the pads. That way, the ends can be removed later with a soldering iron and a new cap fitted if you want to. Those caps are soldered to some very large copper pours and I can't see any thermal relief in the picture, so I wouldn't be too concerned about ripping off a track.

 

[CyFi]

Urgh, found another popped one. Im wondering if some kind of surge did it, or simply old age.

Only saw this now. Give the label for that capacitor or show a pic of the area. We can't take it for granted that it's also on the main power rail.
In fact, clear pics of the whole board (both sides) may help

 

[atunguyd]

You really haven't had experience with these have you? It's brittle right now, so you could simply scrape it off. And it really does not need to be replaced. Whatever damage was already done to the track usually doesn't matter because of all the other caps in parallel. Unless ofcourse there's fusion of the tracks from power to ground, then it would need to be separated.

Well 20 years working professionally as an electronic engineer designing the dstv decoders for multichoice and about 30 years of messing around with electronic design and repair may have given me some experience. But I bow to your superior knowledge Mr "my only tool is a pair of pliars".

I am a bit of a believer in the saying "if you are going to do something then do it correctly". The correct way to remove a smd component from a board is to apply heat. Either from a Soldering iron or from a hot air station. But don't let me stop you at all.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

 

[CyFi]

Well 20 years working professionally as an electronic engineer designing the dstv decoders for multichoice and about 30 years of messing around with electronic design and repair may have given me some experience. But I bow to your superior knowledge Mr "my only tool is a pair of pliars".

I am a bit of a believer in the saying "if you are going to do something then do it correctly". The correct way to remove a smd component from a board is to apply heat. Either from a Soldering iron or from a hot air station. But don't let me stop you at all.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk

I deserve that - I could have worded it better. I have no issue with your method, in fact I would do the same on all my clients laptops and GPUs, including wicking and cleaning up carbon residue.

But I stand by what I said - when it's in this condition, simply twisting with a plier is less invasive than using the hot air or soldering iron. This only applies to this specific situation, where it's one of many decoupling caps on the main power rail.

Anyway, apologies to the OP - I didn't intend to derail his thread.