3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

[ReaperST]

I grabbed the clips and some of that medicinal alcohol from the spar around the corner from me. I think it was the 19mm clips.

Fantastic. On my way now.

I'm assuming I need a glue type deal on the glass for prints to stick?

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[Xormac]

Thanks guys. Need to go get clips now.

Iso alcohol is also methylated spirits right?

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Iso Alcohol is rubbing alcohol, fine for glass then wipe with damp cloth.


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[Xormac]

Fantastic. On my way now.

I'm assuming I need a glue type deal on the glass for prints to stick?

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Hairspray works wonders! The aerosol type is fine. Thin layer and you’re good to go.

I use a paper sheet to prevent overspray onto the rest of the printer.

Only downside is the smell when spraying it.

I still need to test the 2 tablespoons wood glue in water mix.


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[Xormac]

Just had a look at their PLA. R200 for a 1.25kg roll isn't bad. At that price i'm willing to take a risk and test it

I’ve got a few at home I still need to test. Will try and do so tonight and let you know. They’re service is awesome though.


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[Air]

3d printed cookies - Google Search

www.google.com

Edit: I just realized this was at page 1 of a 25 page old thread. @Off-The-Chart

 

[The_Jelly]

Hairspray works wonders! The aerosol type is fine. Thin layer and you’re good to go.

I use a paper sheet to prevent overspray onto the rest of the printer.

Only downside is the smell when spraying it.

I still need to test the 2 tablespoons wood glue in water mix.


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Ashampoos wood glue mix works wonders. I'v done about 40hours of print on thw first application and still going strong. First layer finish is also so smooth, loving it!

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[ReaperST]

Ashampoos wood glue mix works wonders. I'v done about 40hours of print on thw first application and still going strong. First layer finish is also so smooth, loving it!

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Did he post the wood glue mix? Or can you give me a run down?

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[The_Jelly]

Always, always open the file in either 3D Builder (win10 store) or Netfabb first to check for errors. You would be surprised as to the tiniest errors that can just throw the whole print.

I agree on bed levelling. What I do is level too close and then use my slicer to offset the nozzle by 0.05mm steps. Sometimes down to 0.02 to be sure. That way I have now gotten the perfect first layer every time. Also, remember to level your bed when the nozzle and bed are hot due to expansion and contraction. Never touch BuildTak with the nozzle. Will ruin it.

In terms of bed adhesives, I have tried it all. Hairspray, ABS juice, BuildTak, sanded glass, kapton tape, masking tape, blue painters tape; but none compare to what I'm currently using. Two tablespoons of wood glue to a cup of water. Mix it up really good, use a paintbrush and when your bed is cold; paint it on.

I've done maybe 100h of printing on this one layer and I'm still getting perfect adhesion every single time with absolutely 0 warping whatsoever. Put the mix into a sealed jar and you're good to go. The benefits of this mix is that it's water soluble which means that when you take your prints off the bed, you wipe them down with water and the bottom will have a mirror finish if you've leveled correctly. Also, unlike abs juice, you can very easily get it off your bed when it starts building up by simply slapping your build plate in the dishwasher or some hot soapy water. Comes off like a charm.

In terms of using ABS to print, I don't completely avoid it because there are times when it's needed for certain things. For example, I print primarily in PETG (thanks @Mister Wobbles) and PLA however PLA doesn't withstand high temps and PETG has a lot of flex for thinner parts so in that case I might use ABS as a last resort. I don't like it but it does work. There's a reason that it's been the second most popular filament for years.

Just kind of letting my brain ooze here so I'm sorry for rambling.

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There you go

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[roguemat]

Only downside is the smell when spraying it.

Haha, I really like the smell

 

[Shampoo1014]

Haha, I really like the smell

It's like when people say they hate the smell of ABS. I don't understand it. To me it smells great xD

 

[Shampoo1014]

Quick question, if I want to install the glass bed I bought for my Ender 3. How do I go about installing it?

Remove the magnetic sheet, but under that is another black sheet that's glued to the aluminum base. Do I try remove that as well?

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So I have just installed my own magnetic bed and I still use glass to print PETG. What I do is just clip the glass onto the base magnetic bed and adjust my offset in my slicer to account for the extra height. Works just fine

 

[ReaperST]

So I have just installed my own magnetic bed and I still use glass to print PETG. What I do is just clip the glass onto the base magnetic bed and adjust my offset in my slicer to account for the extra height. Works just fine

Thanks bud

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[lowracer]

My E3P's bed was hollow in the middle. so I added 2 squares of 80 gsm paper(about 120x120 and 90x90 respectively) between the two layers of the magnetic bed, and that worked well enough to level the bed - for now. but will most likely go some time in future to a glass bed.

 

[BLaaR]

Something odd is happening all of the sudden. I have been using rafts when printing parts with lots of small details to ensure they stick.

Everything prints fine, but damn. The model is fused onto the rafts. I just cannot remove / peel it like I used to. I did not change my settings, and have re-checked my settings but still the same thing is happening.

I am using Simplify3D and raft settings :
Top layers = 3
Base layers = 2
Raft offset from part = 3mm
Separation distance = 0.3mm
Top infill = 100%
Above raft speed = 30%

 

[Xormac]

Something odd is happening all of the sudden. I have been using rafts when printing parts with lots of small details to ensure they stick.

Everything prints fine, but damn. The model is fused onto the rafts. I just cannot remove / peel it like I used to. I did not change my settings, and have re-checked my settings but still the same thing is happening.

I am using Simplify3D and raft settings :
Top layers = 3
Base layers = 2
Raft offset from part = 3mm
Separation distance = 0.3mm
Top infill = 100%
Above raft speed = 30%

On a normal print or calibration cube; are you suffering from elephants foot by any chance? Cause I would look at leveling the bed not as tightly to the nozzle as it currently is then. We’re only talking a few microns here.


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[BLaaR]

On a normal print or calibration cube; are you suffering from elephants foot by any chance? Cause I would look at leveling the bed not as tightly to the nozzle as it currently is then. We’re only talking a few microns here.


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If there is any elephant's foot , I can't see it. As for bed leveling, I usually heat the nozzle to printing temp. Then adjust until a feel a slight vibration between the nozzle , paper and print bed. If I move the paper I can feel a slight "grind" / "resistance".

Is it too low perhaps ?

 

[Drav3n_ZA]

Hi All,

I can get a 2nd hand CR-10S and a Wanhao Duplicator 7 from a friend as he is moving overseas.
Any advise of what I should offer him?

He also has like 10kg of filament.

Thanks!

 

[Xormac]

If there is any elephant's foot , I can't see it. As for bed leveling, I usually heat the nozzle to printing temp. Then adjust until a feel a slight vibration between the nozzle , paper and print bed. If I move the paper I can feel a slight "grind" / "resistance".

Is it too low perhaps ?

Actually this sounds perfectly fine. Hmmm thinking


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[M@tree2]

Hi all, sorry to hijack a thread.
Just started experiencing this issue,the layers are uneven and don't form a smooth wall.
Do any of you have any ideas to fix this?
It is a Prusa type Cartesian plane printer that I built. (Prusa i3 steel).
I'm using Simplify3D.
Material : ABS
Speed: +/- 60mm/s
Infill % : 90% required for strength as it is being used on a RC.
Layer height : 0.16mm on a 0.4mm nozzle.
Perimeters I have set to 2.
Thanks

 

[ReaperST]

Hi all, sorry to hijack a thread.
Just started experiencing this issue,the layers are uneven and don't form a smooth wall.
Do any of you have any ideas to fix this?
It is a Prusa type Cartesian plane printer that I built. (Prusa i3 steel).
I'm using Simplify3D.
Material : ABS
Speed: +/- 60mm/s
Infill % : 90% required for strength as it is being used on a RC.
Layer height : 0.16mm on a 0.4mm nozzle.
Perimeters I have set to 2.
Thanks

In my limited experience, looks like loose belts

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[M@tree2]

W

In my limited experience, looks like loose belts

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Thanks, will try that this afternoon👍

 

[ReaperST]

W

Thanks, will try that this afternoon[emoji106]

But, limited experience here. You printing it vertical?

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[lowracer]

Hi all, sorry to hijack a thread.
Just started experiencing this issue,the layers are uneven and don't form a smooth wall.
Do any of you have any ideas to fix this?
It is a Prusa type Cartesian plane printer that I built. (Prusa i3 steel).
I'm using Simplify3D.
Material : ABS
Speed: +/- 60mm/s
Infill % : 90% required for strength as it is being used on a RC.
Layer height : 0.16mm on a 0.4mm nozzle.
Perimeters I have set to 2.
Thanks

have a look at the settings that roguemat posted in this thread somewhere

 

[M@tree2]

But, limited experience here. You printing it vertical?

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HI, yes. Using 2mm lead screws in the vertical axis with a direct drive. Double motor setup.

 

[M@tree2]

Found the post by Roguemat, thanks. Will try this evening!

 

[Arphaxad_23]

Hi all, sorry to hijack a thread.
Just started experiencing this issue,the layers are uneven and don't form a smooth wall.
Do any of you have any ideas to fix this?
It is a Prusa type Cartesian plane printer that I built. (Prusa i3 steel).
I'm using Simplify3D.
Material : ABS
Speed: +/- 60mm/s
Infill % : 90% required for strength as it is being used on a RC.
Layer height : 0.16mm on a 0.4mm nozzle.
Perimeters I have set to 2.
Thanks

I would also suggest that you dial in your settings as per @roguemat guide.

Couple of other notes:

1. Check your print orientation, don't now exactly what the function of your part is...but maybe it will be better to print on its side? (To me it looks like that part will easily snap with the layers)
2. For stronger parts, don't always assume higher % infill is the answer. Check out this video

If memory serves me correctly, the number of shells/perimeters has a greater impact on strength than % infill.
But it also depends on the direction of the forces being applied to the part and the shape.

 

[ReaperST]

Well damn. Printing and looks like the nozzle blocked. Causing the filament to break by the extruder and just kept feeding.

First proper failed print

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[Reavs]

I've been working on a print for about a week now. Just about 40 hours of print time left before its done. Itching to install the bltouch, but have to wait for pin 27 board.

 

[Shampoo1014]

Well damn. Printing and looks like the nozzle blocked. Causing the filament to break by the extruder and just kept feeding.

First proper failed print

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Had that before, too. Worst is when printing flexible filament and it decides to shot left. Wait until you wake up to spaghetti on your build plate Any known cause for the blockage? Print looks like it was going really well. Unusual for nozzles to block for no reason.

 

[ReaperST]

Had that before, too. Worst is when printing flexible filament and it decides to shot left. Wait until you wake up to spaghetti on your build plate Any known cause for the blockage? Print looks like it was going really well. Unusual for nozzles to block for no reason.

No clue hey. Changed it out and threw it away... dont want it to see the light of day again!!!

Printed a bunch of test and calibration stuffs last night using Simplify 3D. Now going to reprint the same part using that profile and want to compare S3D and Cura

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