Check engine light!

[PCUSER]

Guys, this weekend was not a good one to me. It just cost me money to fix what broke. Then, my DSTV decoder just died this morning. I was told at work, wait for the 3rd thing to go wrong. I am not superstitious, but yea, it happened. After driving back from DSTV with a new decoder, my car's check engine light came on.:emptiness:
WTF!, so yes, 3 things happened. Anyway, can someone please tell me to do not worry, as it is just a small simple little problem:welcoming:
Car is a 2012 Ford Kuga 2.5T (Volvo motor) The light is amber in color and is constant on, not flickering. The car drives normally and not in limp mode. What is the basics I can check before booking in the car? I just bought it and only paid 2 installments as yet, so to trade it will not be possible at this time.

 

[Toady001]

One thing that will set the check engine light off is a faulty alternator so perhaps check to see if the battery is getting charged. That's about the only experience I've had with this.

 

[ViVceptioN]

Guys, this weekend was not a good one to me. It just cost me money to fix what broke. Then, my DSTV decoder just died this morning. I was told at work, wait for the 3rd thing to go wrong. I am not superstitious, but yea, it happened. After driving back from DSTV with a new decoder, my car's check engine light came on.:emptiness:
WTF!, so yes, 3 things happened. Anyway, can someone please tell me to do not worry, as it is just a small simple little problem:welcoming:
Car is a 2012 Ford Kuga 2.5T (Volvo motor) The light is amber in color and is constant on, not flickering. The car drives normally and not in limp mode. What is the basics I can check before booking in the car? I just bought it and only paid 2 installments as yet, so to trade it will not be possible at this time.

Well its still under warranty?

Take it to Ford they should be able to check error codes and what went wrong without you paying

Btw if it flickers you NEED to take it in asap if not as you stated then you can relax (but still take it in), thing won't blow up just yet

 

[PCUSER]

Well its still under warranty?

Take it to Ford they should be able to check error codes and what went wrong without you paying

Btw if it flickers you NEED to take it in asap if not as you stated then you can relax (but still take it in), thing won't blow up just yet

Yes, you are right. I do have the 2 year mandatory mechanical insurance. Let me see if its money well spend.

 

[ViVceptioN]

Yes, you are right. I do have the 2 year mandatory mechanical insurance. Let me see if its money well spend.

Give them a call also they will tell you what goes for what.

Btw the 2 times my engine light came on it was cause my fuel tank sensor was faulty and my rear brake lamp was faulty (I have a ford also)

Both instances it was a solid amber light.

 

[Toxxyc]

Aside from the mechanical warranty, you have the CPA to stand on. You only paid 2 installments, so you've had it for less than 6 months. Take it back, today still, and tell them to fix it.

 

[Sorabella]

check all you sensors and electrical connections

 

[PCUSER]

Aside from the mechanical warranty, you have the CPA to stand on. You only paid 2 installments, so you've had it for less than 6 months. Take it back, today still, and tell them to fix it.

I thought I got only 1 month from the dealership. That is why the 2 years extended guarantee is for?

 

[yourang]

Have a braai with the kuga, and call it a day

 

[Ravin']

Yeah it can be anything out of hundreds of checks on the car, very difficult to diagnose without pulling a code, take it to Ford as mentioned, they'll at very least pull the code for you at no charge. If it's something serious then the dealership who sold you the car should take the fall, if they don't play nice, take your case to the ombudsman Good luck

 

[PCUSER]

Have a braai with the kuga, and call it a day

I waited for such a silly reply. Why did it take so long:courage:

 

[Ravin']

I thought I got only 1 month from the dealership. That is why the 2 years extended guarantee is for?

Under the CPA you signed, you have 6 months to take the car back to the dealership who sold it to you if it falls under a number of things, among others: catastrophic mechanical failure, if you find something that was not disclosed to you before purchase; such as an accident or what not, everything you present though must be proven, and it can become quite a nightmare, the easier route is to just consult your warranty in such an event

 

[Toxxyc]

CPA gives you a 6 month warranty, except on maintenance parts (like brakes, tyres, battery, globes, etc.). Check engine light is not normal and rarely will be a maintenance part - take it back. Most often it's a stupid and tiny thing that needs to be tightened or adjusted, but you shouldn't foot the bill.

 

[Miz3r]

Ahhh fellow ford buyer

Let me tell you what happened to me and I hope you have better luck.

Day one I purchased a 2011 ford focus 1.6 ti-vct happy as a horse and was an amazing car

Second day I noticed the battery light kept comming on and wouldn't go away. Eventually after confirming battery was ok at the battery center I continued on as normal. I did let the dealer know and suggested I take it to a battery place.

Fast foward a week or two. Battery light came on and I was greeted by a new message on my dash whilst driving.

Engine malfunction stop safely.

Well stopping safely driving on the highway isn't that easy but what eventually happened was the car shut off completely....

Scary af moment. I contacted the dealership whom said bring it back eventually took it in left it with them they checked it out and said cool good to go.

Two weeks later happened again engine mssg came up bam engine failure car cut off again. When this happens u lose all power steering abs etc.

Called the dealer and said what kak is this.

This is when I started googling the CPA. You are entitled to take the vehicle back etc and they must offer you to repair it first which I did. I should of asked them to take the car back as it shouldn't of done that.

Alas I gave them the benefit of the doubt.

That benefit turned out to be a faulty alternator which ford confirmed to be a 9k problem which the dealership sorted out.

So word of caution if it gives problems let the dealership know immedietely so they can rectify it. You should of signed a warranty on the vehicle which covers electrical parts and if its the alternator they will replace it.

Another thing that happened when the engine light came on and under says service now.

The guy that changed the water at the petrol station didn't screw the cap on properly so water pressure basically made my car lose water that was spewing out the car.

That light came on telling me there's an issue eventually the car cut off went into limp mode. Ye that was a costly mistake luckily no damage to engine.

But make sure you check that stuff regularly.

Good luck

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[Artemis128]

I had an issue with a 1l fiesta, but it also displayed "Engine Malfunction" on the radio and went into limp mode. Was quite fun. Turned out the battery cables wasn't secured properly.

Sometimes it's just something small, atleast you've got 6 months to have it solved by the dealer.



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[g0l1athrulz]

Take it to dealer, but before you do, maybe get someone to pull the code, plety of guys have obd readers, i would even clear the code and check if it comes back on, sonetimes its something simole, other times it can be expensive, usually if car isnt in limp mode, its nothing to worry about to much

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[PCUSER]

Guys, I could not get time off as yet, its a crazy time at work. I did open the bonnet last night after work. All looked fine and clean and dry. Then I looked at something I must admit I never ever look at when a cars bonnet is open. The power steering fluid bottle. It was totally empty! I did not see any wires coming from it so how would the cars CPU pick that up? Anyway, I filled the bottle and went to sleep. This morning I hoped the light would be out, but it was still shining bright. I really hoped that the empty power steering fluid bottle was the problem. But it seems the problem is still there.

 

[Spontaneous.Spinach]

Put a sticker or tape over the light, problem solved.

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[Ravin']

Guys, I could not get time off as yet, its a crazy time at work. I did open the bonnet last night after work. All looked fine and clean and dry. Then I looked at something I must admit I never ever look at when a cars bonnet is open. The power steering fluid bottle. It was totally empty! I did not see any wires coming from it so how would the cars CPU pick that up? Anyway, I filled the bottle and went to sleep. This morning I hoped the light would be out, but it was still shining bright. I really hoped that the empty power steering fluid bottle was the problem. But it seems the problem is still there.

A cars hydraulic systems (such as power steering) generally rely on pressure sensors in the system, so if your power steering fluid is low, it will have low pressure, causing the issue. The sensor will not necessarily be by the filler tank. But to be honest I'm not convinced it would could a CEL/fault code. But you never know, it's worth topping up

 

[Kay150]

There is no way of telling what it could be.... there are literally hundreds of things that could trigger the CEL. An alternator is one out of probably 1000 possibilities - if it were the alternator though, you would probably expereince other signs such as dimming lights.
Where are you located - I can read the code for you, it will atleast give you an idea of what it could be at the very least. If the car is still under Motorplan though - taking iot to Ford would be wise

 

[PCUSER]

There is no way of telling what it could be.... there are literally hundreds of things that could trigger the CEL. An alternator is one out of probably 1000 possibilities - if it were the alternator though, you would probably expereince other signs such as dimming lights.
Where are you located - I can read the code for you, it will atleast give you an idea of what it could be at the very least. If the car is still under Motorplan though - taking iot to Ford would be wise

I'm in Bloemfontein, are you willing to drive here:angel: The car was bought secondhand, I did buy a 24 month mechanical breakdown guarantee.

 

[Keenen]

I know exactly what the problem is, all you have to do is replace everything between the front badge and the rear badge. Heh heh, just kidding.

My my mother inlaws Toyota Yaris engine light came on after teaching my GF to drive and she stalled multiple times, mate has a OBD tool thingie majig and turned it off. Hasn't been on since, been about 40k on the clock since...
Hope you come right, don't always think the worst, small things are normally the most overlooked.

 

[∀Z‾soʇɐuɐɥ┴]

I know exactly what the problem is, all you have to do is replace everything between the front badge and the rear badge. Heh heh, just kidding.

Just disconnect the 'check engine' light.
Much easier fix.
Or stick a little piece of paper over it so you can't see it.
But yea, the check engine light is as much a error code as it is when Microsoft tells you something could either be a hardware or a software fault.
On my dad's Rexton the engine light comes on if he forgets to close the petrol flap (not the cap, but the flap that goes over it).

 

[Keenen]

Just disconnect the 'check engine' light.
Much easier fix.
Or stick a little piece of paper over it so you can't see it.

Rather have the engine light come on then knowing the previous owner just cut the wire to the engine light. Before I buy any car I make sure that the engine light comes on when the ignition is on.


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[Kay150]

I'm in Bloemfontein, are you willing to drive here:angel: The car was bought secondhand, I did buy a 24 month mechanical breakdown guarantee.

Why not.... it is only a 4hr drive lol.
On a serious note though, generally if the car drives fine that it usually isnt a big deal.... it could literally be a lose clamp for example.
Maybe check all clamps and sensors.... unplug and plug them in again... tighten clamps... maybe also disconnect the battery overnight. If you still not winning - take it to any workshop (even if it isnt Ford) - They should be able to atleast check what the code is.

 

[PCUSER]

Well, from yesterday after work the light is off. Perhaps then it was that empty power steering fluid reservoir.

 

[g0l1athrulz]

Well, from yesterday after work the light is off. Perhaps then it was that empty power steering fluid reservoir.

Could have been if you fix the fault, the light will turn off, just get the code cleared, else next time you take the car in, they pull the code, and might find a reason to charge you more, code will still be there till you reset it

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[Gabushna]

There is a way to get the error codes on dash. Has a whole bunch of other cool features 2, basically swtich car off, take keys out, hold in the button on the flicker (left arm behind steering wheel), insert key, switch to on position holding button in.

After about 5 - 10 seconds your odometer will change to a solid color and you can cycle through the menues with the little button thingy on the flickermajig.

Find the error codes and google it

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[PCUSER]

There is a way to get the error codes on dash. Has a whole bunch of other cool features 2, basically swtich car off, take keys out, hold in the button on the flicker (left arm behind steering wheel), insert key, switch to on position holding button in.

After about 5 - 10 seconds your odometer will change to a solid color and you can cycle through the menues with the little button thingy on the flickermajig.

Find the error codes and google it

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How do I insert the key, if my car does not have an ignition switch? Perhaps you are talking about another car?