What's new
Carbonite

South Africa's Top Online Tech Classifieds!
Register a free account today to become a member! (No Under 18's)
Home of C.U.D.

Scirocco 2.0TSI

D3TTOL

VIP
VIP Supporter
Rating - 100%
19   0   0
Joined
Jun 12, 2015
Messages
5,560
Reaction score
3,670
Points
10,735
Location
The land of the Nether
Hello peeps.
I need a little bit of advice on a VW, Disclaimer. I actually don't like VW except for the Scirocco.

I have gone to test ride a Scirocco 2.0TSI and I quite like it, it fcks off quite quickly and is in decent condition for it's age and milage.
However it is a high milage one. 137k km.
I noticed that it made a odd sound when taking your foot off the petrol and just letting it decelerate but as soon as you brake or accelerate, even slightly, then the noise goes away. It's sort of like a soft bearing noise, not even a bearing noise, a weird noise.

So yea, if anyone has advice or anything. Please bestow it upon me if It is worth getting said car or not.

Edit :Maybe I should add that it's a 2012, maybe it's relevant.
 
Last edited:
Generally they are solid cars, Its the same motor as the mk6 GTI. If its been looked after then 137k km isn't to much to worry about.

I cant comment on the noise, Could be a million things, Would need more info

As for common issues, the only 2 real issues are:

-Earlier models had diaphragm typo DV's, They tear so loss of power, revision dv's are not expensive and piston type, so solid thereafter.

-Cam chain tensioner. The biggest issue on these motors. Both repair and preventative maintenance is foooooking expensive, Obviously repair is much more.

Other common but less common issues are: mechatronics fail on DSG boxes, PCV failure, carbon buildup and coils (usually fail when tuned)

Other than that, Parts are fairly cheap and readily available, Maintenance isnt to bad and they are very nice and reliable in general.
 
My golf 5 gti has a ticking sound that goes away when I raise the rpm slightly. Sound comes from behind the steering wheel somewhere.
I read somewhere that it's a vent flap motor or some kak. Forget the details. But nothing drive train related. Didn't sound critical.

Maybe it's that?
 
I did some searching online and actually found a vid that pretty much has the noise I heard.
The description says its a loose wastegate.

 
I recall the (wet or dry?) DSGs from that era being prone to issues with their mechatronic units. Not sure how the story has progressed in recent years.

Just mentioning it so that you know to ask around about that particular issue.
 
Invest in a decent OBD scanner. It's not a foolproof check, but it will give you ever so slightly more peace of mind when you view cars in future.
 
I recall the (wet or dry?) DSGs from that era being prone to issues with their mechatronic units. Not sure how the story has progressed in recent years.

Just mentioning it so that you know to ask around about that particular issue.
7speed dry clutch (DQ200) was very problematic

6 Speed wet clutch (DQ250) as in the mk6/Sciroccos are fine
 
7speed dry clutch (DQ200) was very problematic

6 Speed wet clutch (DQ250) as in the mk6/Sciroccos are fine
Yea, I found out this as well.


Thanks for the advice guys.
It's not an immaculate example, Some chips and what not in places but I think I'm going to go for it
 
It's still going for R190k

But I've decided against it.
I took a mechanic there to look at it.
Cosmetically, he said it was a tad on the rough side but to be expected for its age and mileage.
They started the car, I demonstrated that rattle sound, He identified a few other not soo good sounds and we went on our way. xD

Now I'm looking at a 2015 Volvo V40 T3. Everything is solid except it needs it's cam belt replaced at it's next service which is a bit of a slap in the face when purchasing a car but I'm busy trying to sort a deal out with the salesman, who has been way more honest than the Scirocco guys.
I know it's no where near as fast as the Scirocco but ultimately I have a bike that very few cars can even touch so I'll go for the more comfortable option instead.
 
It's still going for R190k

But I've decided against it.
I took a mechanic there to look at it.
Cosmetically, he said it was a tad on the rough side but to be expected for its age and mileage.
They started the car, I demonstrated that rattle sound, He identified a few other not soo good sounds and we went on our way. xD

Now I'm looking at a 2015 Volvo V40 T3. Everything is solid except it needs it's cam belt replaced at it's next service which is a bit of a slap in the face when purchasing a car but I'm busy trying to sort a deal out with the salesman, who has been way more honest than the Scirocco guys.
I know it's no where near as fast as the Scirocco but ultimately I have a bike that very few cars can even touch so I'll go for the more comfortable option instead.
Was about to add my 2c I'm glad you didn't get it at 190k I wouldnt buy a high mileage vw they a unreliable due to the fact that owners mod them and drive them like kak and one skipped maintenance could be a huge mistake, only reliable vw is a 1.9 tdi and some N/A engines. Just get a Toyota problem solved 😅
 
Was about to add my 2c I'm glad you didn't get it at 190k I wouldnt buy a high mileage vw they a unreliable due to the fact that owners mod them and drive them like kak and one skipped maintenance could be a huge mistake, only reliable vw is a 1.9 tdi and some N/A engines. Just get a Toyota problem solved 😅

I had a 2015 ford fusion which was such a nice car. I had to get rid of it because divorce aint cheap and I didn't realise how much overhead costs I had during the relationship. I actually could have kept the Ford but at the time I was unsure.

I'm currently using a 1999 Toyota corolla and well... my bike is more comfortable and safer so I am looking at getting another decent car. I'm keen on that Volvo and the dealer has provided the full service history and the breakdown of what was done to the car at each service. It's a really well looked after car so I reckon I'm going to go for it if I can.

I work from home now since covid 19 so I will only use it occasionally which is fine but I want a decent car.
 
I had a 2015 ford fusion which was such a nice car. I had to get rid of it because divorce aint cheap and I didn't realise how much overhead costs I had during the relationship. I actually could have kept the Ford but at the time I was unsure.

I'm currently using a 1999 Toyota corolla and well... my bike is more comfortable and safer so I am looking at getting another decent car. I'm keen on that Volvo and the dealer has provided the full service history and the breakdown of what was done to the car at each service. It's a really well looked after car so I reckon I'm going to go for it if I can.

I work from home now since covid 19 so I will only use it occasionally which is fine but I want a decent car.
sorry to hear that man, but in the end its up to you on what looks and feels best for you and how fast you want it don't compare it to your bike :p .
just get a basic idea of service cost and reliability of the car and like they suggested and OBD reader to scan the cars after a test drive , take care of the car it'll take care of you period.
how's that Toyota been treating you though?
as for Volvo dot know anything besides they look pretty cool good luck with that purchase bud
 
sorry to hear that man, but in the end its up to you on what looks and feels best for you and how fast you want it don't compare it to your bike :p .
just get a basic idea of service cost and reliability of the car and like they suggested and OBD reader to scan the cars after a test drive , take care of the car it'll take care of you period.
how's that Toyota been treating you though?
as for Volvo dot know anything besides they look pretty cool good luck with that purchase bud
That corolla has done well for what it's been through xD
1.3 liters of pure reliable slow. When I still worked with @ovisser1, they dubbed it "hulk" because it's green.
For a 20 year old workhorse that has done everything from taking me and then my sister to primary school, high school and now dragging itself to the shops every so often for groceries, it has done really really well. Not to mention it has a tow hook and I used it with a trailer to move out.
lots of memories but it's not doing so well anymore.
Realistically it's my mother's car and I was originally going to just get myself a car but she just told me to use it as a trade in because if I stop using it then it's going to stand in a corner and most likely be ignored and degrade.

Thanks for the advice though.
 
Volvo's are tit cars. Reliable and very well built. Their seats are excellent!

I have a Volvo and although it's a recent purchase it's really enjoyable car.
 
The scirocco one of the worst cars you can buy.
 
The scirocco one of the worst cars you can buy.

Well that's sums it up I guess. VW are idiots and they probably should have consulted you first right..

Really if you're going to make a bold comment like that at least back it up with some evidence. Not just because you have worked on a handful or you know someone who has one but a common major issue that is widespread and not easily or affordably repaired.

Fyi I'm not claiming to know better than you but have some sense to edumacate us on why you feel so strongly about this.
 
Dont be a dick, Iam in this field for 15 years. Buying a used EA888 is the worst thing you can do.
To get technical and note all the problems will be like writing a thesis .
The scirocco however looks good and has good suspension.

If you really want the car, google will help you out with most of the usual problems.

PS, my nephew is an Audi/VW mastertech and he does consult VW Germany plenty times ;)
 
LOl anyone claiming that a VW is not a reliable car obviously knows nothing and any statement by them should be taken with a grain of salt.

As for a Scirocco, you stay away from any high performance car with high mileage. Most people buying high performance cars, buy them for one reason and that's to drive the shit out of it. High revs cause more wear on engine components, so you stay away from high mileage high performance cars, doesn't matter what brand.
 
High revs causes more wear? Oh dear you have never opened an engine and gearbox driven by old people :D
What is reliable about EA888, EA111, EA211?
Have you worked on the gearboxes? Clutches? Engines?
 
Dont be a dick, Iam in this field for 15 years. Buying a used EA888 is the worst thing you can do.
To get technical and note all the problems will be like writing a thesis .
The scirocco however looks good and has good suspension.

If you really want the car, google will help you out with most of the usual problems.

PS, my nephew is an Audi/VW mastertech and he does consult VW Germany plenty times ;)

Name calling, csb.. I've been called worse.

If you had maybe shared your 15 years of wisdom in your initialreply it would be clearer to the OP and us non master techs.

Either way still trying to understand why this is a bad car.. maybe outline the main issues.
 
Last edited:
yeah high perf cars are always a risk buying second hand no matter who the owner was (old or young)

old peeps might not rev the shit out of the car but low revs can also cause issues for the next buyer as the engine tends to only see certain height inside the piston sleeves and can leave the top end still as it was in the factory and once revs are higher then normal (new user) then can start knocking on that formed groove...

I personally don't believe any story when buying a secondhand car or pc part for that matter...
like: I'm selling the car as it was my mothers and she now moved on... how do I know car is not just registered in her name and its been his/hers for last x years?

same as, pc has never being over clocked, but its a K series cpu on a Z motherboard??

 
Name calling, csb.. I've been called worse.

If you had maybe shared your 15 years of wisdom in your initialreply it would be clearer to the OP and us non master techs.

Either way still trying to understand why this is a bad car.. maybe outline the main issues.
Most common is the problems around the injectors(carbon buildup and its family of problems). Then gearbox mechatronic, they fail in more than one way. There is at least by now upgraded units available. And VW has always had super bad knock retard this leads to broken pistons especially with South African fuel.
If the OP can work on the car himself then it might be ok to buy it, but the usual repair bills on these easily go around 70k.
I had an Audi here with 200k in repairs a few years ago.
PS. your not a dick I was just picking a fight on a friday.
 
High revs causes more wear? Oh dear you have never opened an engine and gearbox driven by old people :D
This is like saying don't exercise, have you ever seen ultra marathon athlete's hearts? You take how the average Joe drives normal revs compared to the street racers wear and tear
What is reliable about EA888, EA111, EA211?
I know things like statistics etc may be hard for some mechanics to understand, if you take data to look at something you can get a curve to tell you a story. Yes there will be ups and downs but you will get an average curve. Or maybe let me explain it to you like this "Een swaeltjie maak nie n somer". VW is known all over the world for decades as making reliable cars.
Have you worked on the gearboxes? Clutches? Engines?
Nope, people that can actually study a university degree dont have to open their gearbox to see "pictures", we can read a book, google, use logic etc to come to a conclusion.
 
Oh wow, this took a turn.

I'm just going to say a few things.
Firstly, I'm not going to get a scirocco. I took a mechanic there and he identified quite a few horrible details about the car which immediately put me off. The salesmen also lied quite a bit about the car.

I wouldn't work on the car myself except for brake pads and stuff like that.
I then looked at a 1.6t ford powered volvo v40 but that came with a different set of problems so I decided against it.

People may mock me and they can definitely go ahead and do so.
I am in the process of getting a Citroen DS4 2.0 HDI which is 100% okay with me. My ex wife had a C4 1.6 HDI and besides a battery replacement, it was pretty rock solid and if she had not written it off then she'd most likely still be driving it around today.

I also looked at that infinity that is on sale on carb but with infinity pretty much out of the country, I decided against that as well.
 
Just do it right and get a Mazda MX 5 :)

Sorted [emoji14]

If you have R245k cash and can wait until exactly 31 October you can get a Toureg [emoji14] haha or let them sell it less to WeBuyCars and not less to a carbie :( i feel betrayed a little. Thought we got the better deals.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
The scirocco one of the worst cars you can buy.

Dont be a dick, Iam in this field for 15 years. Buying a used EA888 is the worst thing you can do.
To get technical and note all the problems will be like writing a thesis .
The scirocco however looks good and has good suspension.

If you really want the car, google will help you out with most of the usual problems.

PS, my nephew is an Audi/VW mastertech and he does consult VW Germany plenty times ;)

What is reliable about EA888, EA111, EA211?

Most common is the problems around the injectors(carbon buildup and its family of problems). Then gearbox mechatronic, they fail in more than one way. There is at least by now upgraded units available. And VW has always had super bad knock retard this leads to broken pistons especially with South African fuel.
If the OP can work on the car himself then it might be ok to buy it, but the usual repair bills on these easily go around 70k.
I had an Audi here with 200k in repairs a few years ago.
PS. your not a dick I was just picking a fight on a friday.

WHAT

A

LOAD

OF

HORSE SHIT

🤣

You clearly have no idea what you are talking about 🤣🤣🤣 like bad!

and Yes I have worked on all of them, repaired them and modified them... I actually owned my own tuning company at some point. And I must say... your nephew sounds like a pretty dreary dude... Not bad for someone who learns the ins and outs of a motor through a SSP document to tell the guys who designed the motor how it works..... suuuuuuurrrreeeee

Anyway... onto the last quote above... No, The most common issue is chain tensioner failure, The "injector" problem is actually nothing to do with the injector, Its the design of the motor. Also a much more relevant issue on ea113 era motors rather than EA888... but fuck.. what do I know.

Gearbox... Yeah the DQ200 in the 1.4s had reliability issues, Mostly clutch pack issues due to the dry clutch setup... The DQ250 boxes are pretty solid... they still use them to this day... The only reason there are so many cases of mechatronic failures is because there are so many of them... like millions... The actual failure rate is pretty low in reality. Its also a pretty easy thing to recon, just lots of labour involved.

The "super bad knock retard" is all sorts of nonsense, If that was true you wouldn't be able to tune them on "SA Fuels"... Which everyone knows is a great past time activity in SA. The only way this is possible is if the cars ran very lean from factory... which it doesn't... quite the opposite actually.

O and just a side note... SA fuels are really not as bad as everyone makes it out to be, Its the way in which fuels are stored and the high temps that's more of an issue, Not the quality of the fuel itself.

None of this makes the Scirocco the worst car you can buy tho
 
old peeps might not rev the shit out of the car but low revs can also cause issues for the next buyer as the engine tends to only see certain height inside the piston sleeves and can leave the top end still as it was in the factory and once revs are higher then normal (new user) then can start knocking on that formed groove...
What... are you telling me the piston goes higher the higher your RPM?
Its revolutions per minute and has nothing to do with stroke height.

Whether a car is idling or hitting limiter the piston is not going lower or higher.. Unless you have some weird telescopic conrod's...
 
What... are you telling me the piston goes higher the higher your RPM?
Its revolutions per minute and has nothing to do with stroke height.

Whether a car is idling or hitting limiter the piston is not going lower or higher.. Unless you have some weird telescopic conrod's...
Yes the piston goes higher
 
Yes the piston goes higher
Wait.... what 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

jeezus fucking christ man, 15 years in the field and you dont know the basics of how a engine works

No, it doesn’t, the stroke is a fixed length that is determined by the throw of the crankshaft. No matter how much you rev it, it cannot change.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom