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Keyboard Nut Thread

Haha yeah I want them as soon as possible, just looking for some good thocky switches to finish off my build which has gat greens in which I am selling.
 
Good switches but soooooo overpriced (R1200 for 72), more/same than ink blacks were on ctrlshiftesc
CSE are restocking their Durock switches soon, I can highly recommend the T1s if they won't be too pricy
 
CSE are restocking their Durock switches soon, I can highly recommend the T1s if they won't be too pricy
I sold my board with T1s in it, looking for something different, maybe not such a sharp tactile bump.
 
I sold my board with T1s in it, looking for something different, maybe not such a sharp tactile bump.
Rip if I still had a bunch of pewters I'd have considered selling them, but the only ones I have left are the ones in my 40%
 
Rip if I still had a bunch of pewters I'd have considered selling them, but the only ones I have left are the ones in my 40%
Haha no worries, I am looking to buy some other switches from some other people on Carbonite.
 
If anyone has some switches for sale just pm me and maybe we can figure something out.
 
@DestinB

Looks like CSE now have the Drurock Sunflower in stock. Pretty much the closest you'll get to a U4T in SA:

 
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So, being a Bobagum fan/user, I’m lookiing at the tactile Drurock T1 Shrimps for my next project….Anybody have experience with these? Are they silent both ways or only on the down stroke?
 
Hey guys, Im having a bit of a dilemma with my DZ60rgb v2. The LED's started dimming about a week ago, they were noticably less bright than they should be. Then a few days ago I was an absolute clumsy idiot and managed to spill redbull ontop of my keyboard. Unfortunately it was absorbed by the tape under my PCB and was making contact with the underside of the PCB, so my keyboard started freaking out and doing its own thing, plus the LED's were off completely now, as apposed to just being dimmer prior to the spill.

Long story short, I thoroughly cleanred the PCB with isopropyl alcohol today and reflashed it with the latest QMK toolbox. The keyboard is now functionally perfectly again, however the LED's are still not turning on at all.

I did some googling and I cant really find any working solutions. I tried moving my RGB control keys to layer 3 instead of layer 2 and that didnt do any thing. Some people were reccomending ISP flashing the board, which I havent done yet since I dont have the hardware to do so, nor do I even know the first thing about ISP flashing.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated ❤
 
Hey guys, Im having a bit of a dilemma with my DZ60rgb v2. The LED's started dimming about a week ago, they were noticably less bright than they should be. Then a few days ago I was an absolute clumsy idiot and managed to spill redbull ontop of my keyboard. Unfortunately it was absorbed by the tape under my PCB and was making contact with the underside of the PCB, so my keyboard started freaking out and doing its own thing, plus the LED's were off completely now, as apposed to just being dimmer prior to the spill.

Long story short, I thoroughly cleanred the PCB with isopropyl alcohol today and reflashed it with the latest QMK toolbox. The keyboard is now functionally perfectly again, however the LED's are still not turning on at all.

I did some googling and I cant really find any working solutions. I tried moving my RGB control keys to layer 3 instead of layer 2 and that didnt do any thing. Some people were reccomending ISP flashing the board, which I havent done yet since I dont have the hardware to do so, nor do I even know the first thing about ISP flashing.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated ❤
Hey! You might have one or more non-functioning LEDs. I don't think it's necessarily the firmware or microcontroller that are scuffed.

Another option (I think) could be some other pre-existing power delivery issue to the LEDs. You might have to have a go at it with a multimeter to really find out what's happening
 
Hey! You might have one or more non-functioning LEDs. I don't think it's necessarily the firmware or microcontroller that are scuffed.

Another option (I think) could be some other pre-existing power delivery issue to the LEDs. You might have to have a go at it with a multimeter to really find out what's happening
Thanks for the help. Ill borrow my dads multimeter when I get a chance and have a look.

I have a feeling I migh be at a loss here. At least the PCB is still usable. Perhaps this is an excuse to build a new keyboard 😂
 
Thanks for the help. Ill borrow my dads multimeter when I get a chance and have a look.

I have a feeling I migh be at a loss here. At least the PCB is still usable. Perhaps this is an excuse to build a new keyboard 😂
Or you can learn to handwire LEDs :p
 
So finally pulling the trigger to get a new keyboard after selling my beloved k70 mk2. Thoughts on the Akko PC75B? Just wanted to get feedback on it before placing the order later tonight or tomorrow.

Its 3 pin and 5 pin hotswap, type c connection, got a nice silicone mould on the inside already, wireless is a plus, downside is the north facing LEDs which don’t really bother me, and the placement of the type c connector is offset to right centre.
 
Need help, have a bit of a dilemma, on @ctrlshiftesc both NK Creams and Gateron Cap Yellow V2s are going for the same price, which in your opinion would be the better switch if looking for a lower-pitched and smooth switch?
 
So finally pulling the trigger to get a new keyboard after selling my beloved k70 mk2. Thoughts on the Akko PC75B? Just wanted to get feedback on it before placing the order later tonight or tomorrow.

Its 3 pin and 5 pin hotswap, type c connection, got a nice silicone mould on the inside already, wireless is a plus, downside is the north facing LEDs which don’t really bother me, and the placement of the type c connector is offset to right centre.
Sounds good, don't have experiences with Akko boards but their other products are good in my experience. If you want a 75% board then go for it, just check you have exhausted all other options just in case a better deal pops up on something like a barebones kit.
 
Need help, have a bit of a dilemma, on @ctrlshiftesc both NK Creams and Gateron Cap Yellow V2s are going for the same price, which in your opinion would be the better switch if looking for a lower-pitched and smooth switch?
Out of the box, Creams are EXTREMELY scratchy. The last time I used them I had to use a massage gun to break them in before they really became bearable to use.
 
Any recommendations on building a corne v3 keyboard for a newby.
Do you guys import all the parts, or is there someone locally selling the parts?
 
Out of the box, Creams are EXTREMELY scratchy. The last time I used them I had to use a massage gun to break them in before they really became bearable to use.
Is their sound something worth going through the whole process for?
 
Is their sound something worth going through the whole process for?
Not really, to be honest. There are much better switches at the price, not even factoring in the effort. I'd only buy creams if I was going to frankenswitch, and even then...
 
Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for :)
Do you know the level of customization I can do? Like the colors of the PCB?
I built one for someone that has bongo cat on one of the screens....
 
Sounds good, don't have experiences with Akko boards but their other products are good in my experience. If you want a 75% board then go for it, just check you have exhausted all other options just in case a better deal pops up on something like a barebones kit.
Thanks. Been watching the same YouTube videos making sure I made the right choice so just some reassurance about my purchase while I wait is great. I really like the board (from what I’ve seen) initially wanted TKL(gmmk actually) but the knob bug got me lol.

My plan is to use the board for a bit, eventually get some lube for the switches, get into the whole modding thing, and then get the cs silver switches, and so the endless money Pitt of custom keyboard begins lol.
 
Need help, have a bit of a dilemma, on @ctrlshiftesc both NK Creams and Gateron Cap Yellow V2s are going for the same price, which in your opinion would be the better switch if looking for a lower-pitched and smooth switch?
Hold on a second here...

You asked for tactile (Boba u4t especially) and you're ignoring the Sunflower, which has a very similar feel to the Boba u4t... What's happening here? Decided to go linear? Or am I missing something...
 
Not really, to be honest. There are much better switches at the price, not even factoring in the effort. I'd only buy creams if I was going to frankenswitch, and even then...
Okay thank, you what locally available alternatives would you recommend?
 
Thanks. Been watching the same YouTube videos making sure I made the right choice so just some reassurance about my purchase while I wait is great. I really like the board (from what I’ve seen) initially wanted TKL(gmmk actually) but the knob bug got me lol.

My plan is to use the board for a bit, eventually get some lube for the switches, get into the whole modding thing, and then get the cs silver switches, and so the endless money Pitt of custom keyboard begins lol.
haha, good luck with losing all your money, I went down the same rabbit hole, but I love compact builds.
 

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