What's new
Carbonite

South Africa's Top Online Tech Classifieds!
Register a free account today to become a member! (No Under 18's)
Home of C.U.D.

Help me I'm a noob ^^,

Status
Not open for further replies

PaladinLaw

Legendary Member
VIP Supporter
Rating - 100%
41   0   0
Joined
Mar 4, 2019
Messages
2,573
Reaction score
2,632
Points
8,405
Location
Pretoria, Gauteng
Sooo...

I currently have a socket 1150 motherboard. My problem. I wanna put an am4 cooler on it.

Love the look of the wraith rgb coolers, and it got me thinking.

Would it be possible to 3D print an adapter of sorts?

Motherboard backplate, with an adapter that goes over the cpu through the mobo holes into the backplate, and the adapter has holes for you to screw the cooler into.

Am I just being dumb?

Don't have much experience with coolers so I'm not sure if something like this would work or not.

Let me know :)
 
You're being dumb. Why? Wraith coolers aren't even that good.
I'm after the aesthetics. I love the upwards facing fan with the led ring. Something in unable to find in intel.

Closest i can find (and it actually looks really nice as well) is the cm G100M, but it's just waaaay too big
 
I'm after the aesthetics. I love the upwards facing fan with the led ring. Something in unable to find in intel.

Closest i can find (and it actually looks really nice as well) is the cm G100M, but it's just waaaay too big
gamdias-chione-280mm-rgb-liquid-cooler-400px-v1.gif
 
Why not mount a Wraith Spire fan on top of an Intel 115x cooler base?
Thats what I was thinking yeah, but wasn't 100% sure how to do it.

You get guys on reddit / youtube etc that say just zip tie it but don't really wanna do that, which is why I wanna 3D print something.

My logic (Could be flawed cos I'm a noob would be something like this, excuse the crude drawing, it's incredibly bad :ROFLMAO: )


Where red would be the 1150/115x holes that go through the mobo to the backplate, and the green would be AM4 holes for me to mount the cooler straight onto the base. Obviously the screws used to mount the AM4 would need to be short, as they wouldn't go through the board. So possibly even just self tap them into the base?

In a Nutshell, 3D print a base that can be semi-permanently attached to the cooler, and attach the cooler with its "new base" to the existing 1150 holes.
 
Remember that 3D printing involves plastic getting soft when it's heated. A CPU and it's cooler gets hot. I don't want to be the one who ends up with a drooping CPU cooler in the middle of a gaming session.
 
I'm after the aesthetics. I love the upwards facing fan with the led ring. Something in unable to find in intel.

Closest i can find (and it actually looks really nice as well) is the cm G100M, but it's just waaaay too big
That's cuz Intel got over the inefficiency of Orb coolers long ago. Thermaltake and Zalman used to make a ton, RGB-less though. But they would always be crushed by the upright Thermalright, Arctic, Noctua and CM heatsinks so they stopped making them as they weren't selling.
 
Remember that 3D printing involves plastic getting soft when it's heated. A CPU and it's cooler gets hot. I don't want to be the one who ends up with a drooping CPU cooler in the middle of a gaming session.
While researching I found this out as well. Apparently, normal PLA wouldn't work, but in theory, ABS *should* work, as it has a transition temp of around 105 degrees.... and if my CPU/Cooler is sitting that high, I think I've got bigger problems that just some melted plastic on my board :ROFLMAO:
 
That's cuz Intel got over the inefficiency of Orb coolers long ago. Thermaltake and Zalman used to make a ton, RGB-less though. But they would always be crushed by the upright Thermalright, Arctic, Noctua and CM heatsinks so they stopped making them as they weren't selling.
Personally don't think they're inefficient....

I'm able to get my GF's R7 1700 up to 4.1 stable on stock cooler (Wraith Spire) temps only hit 80ish when benching (Full load for 20+ minutes) Never over 70 while gaming...

So whilst I do agree that in general, Liquid will almost always beat air, and upright air will beat an orb cooler a lot of the times, that doesn't mean that the Spire's are bad.

Sure, if I had a liquid cooler I might get it a few degrees lower, and maybe even something really beefy like a MSI CORE FROZR L would also yield a few degrees cooler than the Spire, but if i'm getting "normal" or "within safe range" temps on the Spire, I'll choose the Spire, simply because I love the Aesthetics
 
Personally don't think they're inefficient....

I'm able to get my GF's R7 1700 up to 4.1 stable on stock cooler (Wraith Spire) temps only hit 80ish when benching (Full load for 20+ minutes) Never over 70 while gaming...

So whilst I do agree that in general, Liquid will almost always beat air, and upright air will beat an orb cooler a lot of the times, that doesn't mean that the Spire's are bad.

Sure, if I had a liquid cooler I might get it a few degrees lower, and maybe even something really beefy like a MSI CORE FROZR L would also yield a few degrees cooler than the Spire, but if i'm getting "normal" or "within safe range" temps on the Spire, I'll choose the Spire, simply because I love the Aesthetics

I wouldn't want my CPU hitting 80C, 70C (max low seventies) is all I'm happy with. If I'm hitting higher I need to pursue a better cooler. So I guess that's why I would be less happy with choosing aesthetics over cooling efficiency at that level.
 
I wouldn't want my CPU hitting 80C, 70C (max low seventies) is all I'm happy with. If I'm hitting higher I need to pursue a better cooler. So I guess that's why I would be less happy with choosing aesthetics over cooling efficiency at that level.
80 at max load (prime95 for 20+ minutes) never over 70 gaming. I'm happy with that
 
Remember that 3D printing involves plastic getting soft when it's heated. A CPU and it's cooler gets hot. I don't want to be the one who ends up with a drooping CPU cooler in the middle of a gaming session.

I've had some mounts printed for an ML120 AIO. Granted it was on a 1060 but I didn't get any strange temperature spikes. Planning on redoing the parts in ABS. The bed temperature used for ABS is 110 deg where PLA is 70.

@PaladinLaw I can design the mounts for you (and possibly print them as well) if you want to give it a try?
 
I've had some mounts printed for an ML120 AIO. Granted it was on a 1060 but I didn't get any strange temperature spikes. Planning on redoing the parts in ABS. The bed temperature for ABS is 110 deg where PLA is 70.

@PaladinLaw I can design the mounts for you (and possibly print them as well) if you want to give it a try?
Duuuude, that would be awesome! Was trying to design them (roughly) this morning, but trying to figure out the measurements etc without having the 2 coolers in front of me is proving to be difficult.
 
Duuuude, that would be awesome! Was trying to design them (roughly) this morning, but trying to figure out the measurements etc without having the 2 coolers in front of me is proving to be difficult.

I've got one of the small AMD coolers lying around so I will check which of these holes are used. 115x seems to be 75mm hole to hole

70826_ekwb_scaled.jpg
 
Looks like it's 7.781 ± 0.335 mm from motherboard 0.0mm to the IHS (the cpu block) on an LGA1150 according to:


Not sure if different 115x CPUs have different IHS heights? I would assume not as they have been using the same stock coolers forever
 
Looks like it's 7.781 ± 0.335 mm from motherboard 0.0mm to the IHS (the cpu block) on an LGA1150 according to:


Not sure if different 115x CPUs have different IHS heights? I would assume not as they have been using the same stock coolers forever
I think your assumption would be correct
 
While researching I found this out as well. Apparently, normal PLA wouldn't work, but in theory, ABS *should* work, as it has a transition temp of around 105 degrees.... and if my CPU/Cooler is sitting that high, I think I've got bigger problems that just some melted plastic on my board
Melting aside, I don't think plastic 3D printing would withstand the pressure. @Shampoo1014 would know FAR more than me.
 
While researching I found this out as well. Apparently, normal PLA wouldn't work, but in theory, ABS *should* work, as it has a transition temp of around 105 degrees.... and if my CPU/Cooler is sitting that high, I think I've got bigger problems that just some melted plastic on my board

Remember that materials start losing strength before melting.

Just ask the WTC.
 
Remember that materials start losing strength before melting.

Just ask the WTC.
I've actually given up on this project guys, just forgot to close lol. Decided custom loop would look much nicer, so I'm working towards that now
 
Bro Intel have a TSi15A tower cooler which is literally a taller intel stock cooler and does wonders. I have mine, but the one clip broke, so if you can replace the clip, you can buy mine no stress. Performance was never a problem with this cooler. had it cooler an i5 6400
 
Bro Intel have a TSi15A tower cooler which is literally a taller intel stock cooler and does wonders. I have mine, but the one clip broke, so if you can replace the clip, you can buy mine no stress. Performance was never a problem with this cooler. had it cooler an i5 6400
Not nearly as nice looking as the amd wraiths, but that's a moot point, since I've decided to go custom loop
 
Status
Not open for further replies

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom