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ECU Remapping

QuantumX

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So I bought a "tuned" car, and I'm looking to take it back to "stock"

My question is do the tuners just "tune" the car back to stock power levels again when asking them for this, or do they actually flash the OEM software file with the verified and unmodified hash as it was originally from the factory?
 
So I bought a "tuned" car, and I'm looking to take it back to "stock"

My question is do the tuners just "tune" the car back to stock power levels again when asking them for this, or do they actually flash the OEM software file with the verified and unmodified hash as it was originally from the factory?
depends who did it, some tuning companies save the cars original file, then load a custom file after. best bet is to check with the company who tuned the car first.

otherwise, dealerships can sort it but its expensive. or go to a reputable company in your area and ask them to pull the car back into standard spec.
 
So I bought a "tuned" car, and I'm looking to take it back to "stock"

My question is do the tuners just "tune" the car back to stock power levels again when asking them for this, or do they actually flash the OEM software file with the verified and unmodified hash as it was originally from the factory?
What car is it. What management? What is the issue with your tune?
 
depends who did it, some tuning companies save the cars original file, then load a custom file after. best bet is to check with the company who tuned the car first.

otherwise, dealerships can sort it but its expensive. or go to a reputable company in your area and ask them to pull the car back into standard spec.

As someone who works with computers it makes sense to me to do a backup of the unmodified OEM software before modifications are made. Like when you have to fix your aunts laptop after a failed update, you do a full system backup image first in case something goes wrong or files get lost along the way so you have the original to restore from. But yeah it seems that might not be standard practice in the tuning industry.


What car is it. What management? What is the issue with your tune?

Its a 2011 Audi A4 2.0T. I'm actually trying to narrow down a issue with the radiator fans that stays on at 100%, and even goes on when you just open the door without the engine running. I've found threads where Golf 6 GTI's (same EA888 Gen 2 engine as my car) had similar issues after being tuned, so I thought before spending more money on replacing fan relays and sensors, or sending it to the Auto Elec, I'd try my luck to get the original software flashed back - and why a "retune" back to stock power won't do; since that will carry over existing corruption in the file.
 
issue with the radiator fans that stays on at 100%

Probably irrelevant bc of the make, but my old Volvo did that, and it was because of a faulty MAF sensor. Why they chose to drain your battery when the MAF stops working properly, I have no idea XD
 
As someone who works with computers it makes sense to me to do a backup of the unmodified OEM software before modifications are made. Like when you have to fix your aunts laptop after a failed update, you do a full system backup image first in case something goes wrong or files get lost along the way so you have the original to restore from. But yeah it seems that might not be standard practice in the tuning industry.




Its a 2011 Audi A4 2.0T. I'm actually trying to narrow down a issue with the radiator fans that stays on at 100%, and even goes on when you just open the door without the engine running. I've found threads where Golf 6 GTI's (same EA888 Gen 2 engine as my car) had similar issues after being tuned, so I thought before spending more money on replacing fan relays and sensors, or sending it to the Auto Elec, I'd try my luck to get the original software flashed back - and why a "retune" back to stock power won't do; since that will carry over existing corruption in the file.
I figured it would be an audi or a vw lol. When you open your door, CAN bus activity starts. ECU is seeing something wrong.

HAve you scanned codes?
Checked coolant temp sensor? P0116 / P0117 / P0118
fan control module
A/C high pressure switch

Go unplug your coolant sensor by the flange and then open door and see if they come on? If different behaviour, your issue lies there. If not. check your fan control module (more likely). IIRC it controls your radiator and A/C radiator fan
 
I figured it would be an audi or a vw lol. When you open your door, CAN bus activity starts. ECU is seeing something wrong.

HAve you scanned codes?
Checked coolant temp sensor? P0116 / P0117 / P0118
fan control module
A/C high pressure switch

Go unplug your coolant sensor by the flange and then open door and see if they come on? If different behaviour, your issue lies there. If not. check your fan control module (more likely). IIRC it controls your radiator and A/C radiator fan
tl:dr

I doubt it's your tune that's causing this. could even be a broken earth wire by the Fan assembly
 
tl:dr

I doubt it's your tune that's causing this. could even be a broken earth wire by the Fan assembly

No fault codes other than the one for the fans. Fan module already replaced. All temp sensors have normal readings. On my previous Audi a fan issue was caused by an invalid temp sensor reading so this was one of the first things I checked.

This issue has been coming along for a while so I've checked what I can, even had SAC check it and they said to take it to the Auto Elec as they can't find the issue.
 
No fault codes other than the one for the fans. Fan module already replaced. All temp sensors have normal readings. On my previous Audi a fan issue was caused by an invalid temp sensor reading so this was one of the first things I checked.

This issue has been coming along for a while so I've checked what I can, even had SAC check it and they said to take it to the Auto Elec as they can't find the issue.
Auto elec probably will sort you out. But there are still a few things you could look at like wiring and water around the ecu tray.

These are all common issues for the B8, discussed on many forums.

img_3356-jpg.13279
 
My mechanic/tuner is in Goodwood, he's the only person I take my car to. If that's more convenient, I can PM you his deets 👌
 
So have a Volvo that's got this issue and its related to the FanModule that goes faulty.
Dealers want about 4k for this and ordered one from UK for R1500.

That might also be your issue and normally the car would keep the fan on if needed after you switch off as the fan module gets power directly from battery and uses the sense cable to determine if fan needs to be on and at what speed. You might find that yours controls one or two fans from the same module as mine. The main fan and the AC one. You might be able to find replacement at GoldWagon
 
No fault codes other than the one for the fans. Fan module already replaced. All temp sensors have normal readings. On my previous Audi a fan issue was caused by an invalid temp sensor reading so this was one of the first things I checked.

This issue has been coming along for a while so I've checked what I can, even had SAC check it and they said to take it to the Auto Elec as they can't find the issue.
Adding to what @solz is saying.
Its possible that the fan module is controlled by pwm signal from the ecu. I know on a w204 merc if the signal received by the module isn't between 10%-100% it will default to 100% speed.
If the module is kaput the mosfets will probably fail as short and thus the fan will run all the time.
Since you changed the module already I would check the signal being fed to it.
Must use a oscilloscope or atleast a multi meter that can read duty cycle
 
So I bought a "tuned" car, and I'm looking to take it back to "stock"

My question is do the tuners just "tune" the car back to stock power levels again when asking them for this, or do they actually flash the OEM software file with the verified and unmodified hash as it was originally from the factory?
AFAIK once the flag is set, it cannot be reset to clear the flag.

Does the car only have a stage 1 or hardware mods as well. If there’s hardware changes, not always possible to just go back to stock.

Has it always been faulty from the time you got it or is it a new issue. A tune, if done properly, shouldn’t cause an issue like that which brings the next question. Who tuned the car. Best to go back to them first as someone new is most probably just going to blame the old tune.
 
Take the car to Andre, he'll explain it all and get it where you want it: Home - Custom Tuning

Andre was super helpful, patient with all my questions, and sorted me out with the OEM tune, thanks for the recommendation. Car actually drives smoother now as well.

Issue persists though, but it was a long shot to begin with. Thanks for all the other recommendations, I'll have them looked in to.
 
Andre was super helpful, patient with all my questions, and sorted me out with the OEM tune, thanks for the recommendation. Car actually drives smoother now as well.

Issue persists though, but it was a long shot to begin with. Thanks for all the other recommendations, I'll have them looked in to.
Yeah he knows his stuff. Glad he could sort the tune - at least now you know it's not tune related.
 
Andre was super helpful, patient with all my questions, and sorted me out with the OEM tune, thanks for the recommendation. Car actually drives smoother now as well.

Issue persists though, but it was a long shot to begin with. Thanks for all the other recommendations, I'll have them looked in to.
If youve checked :
- Fan control module
- Fan resistor
- Relays (Yes this is an issue too)
- Fuses
- Temp sensors

then your only other option is wiring, faulty or non existent ground or break in a wire as Ricky mentioned.
Easy enough to trace, wiring diagram also easily obtainable - test for continuity on the ground wire and signal 12v, test this by unplugging the connector and locating the fuse in conjunction - should be a very simple and straight forward fix.

also check for corrosion or bent pins on the connector plug (female) and corrosion on the module itself (male), this is 9/10 times the issue because people just cram it in like a virgin nun, and it causes shit down the road.
edit : NO TUNE WILL DO THIS
the only time a tune will have this issue is if the parameter is MANUALLY coded onto the ECU to set the fan at 100% by providing a constant 12v. this youll only see in race application and dakar and even then, its very seldom.

Hope this helps
 
If youve checked :
- Fan control module
- Fan resistor
- Relays (Yes this is an issue too)
- Fuses
- Temp sensors

then your only other option is wiring, faulty or non existent ground or break in a wire as Ricky mentioned.
Easy enough to trace, wiring diagram also easily obtainable - test for continuity on the ground wire and signal 12v, test this by unplugging the connector and locating the fuse in conjunction - should be a very simple and straight forward fix.

also check for corrosion or bent pins on the connector plug (female) and corrosion on the module itself (male), this is 9/10 times the issue because people just cram it in like a virgin nun, and it causes shit down the road.
edit : NO TUNE WILL DO THIS
the only time a tune will have this issue is if the parameter is MANUALLY coded onto the ECU to set the fan at 100% by providing a constant 12v. this youll only see in race application and dakar and even then, its very seldom.

Hope this helps

Not so fast there homie, as an example, if you flash an 012M (Polo GTI) or 032HS/HM (Mk4 GTI) file to a 512 (Audi A4 B6/B7 1.8T) ECU the fan control no longer works and the fan runs at 100% DC continuously. The car still runs fine otherwise since ME7.5 ECU's are the same.

That being said a basic scan tool that allows you to monitor live data will tell you exactly what the fan is doing.

Also as for flashing to stock, a stock file is a stock file as long as it's untampered with. If it fits the original ECU part number then it will be as stock as any stock file pulled from that ECU before writing a new file to it.
 
Not so fast there homie, as an example, if you flash an 012M (Polo GTI) or 032HS/HM (Mk4 GTI) file to a 512 (Audi A4 B6/B7 1.8T) ECU the fan control no longer works and the fan runs at 100% DC continuously. The car still runs fine otherwise since ME7.5 ECU's are the same.

That being said a basic scan tool that allows you to monitor live data will tell you exactly what the fan is doing.

Also as for flashing to stock, a stock file is a stock file as long as it's untampered with. If it fits the original ECU part number then it will be as stock as any stock file pulled from that ECU before writing a new file to it.
eh, VW products - all of them are kak anyway.
this isnt smack talk, my bad.

In relation to the fan story, if your tuner doesnt notice that the fan is running at 100% after a tune and does nothing to fix it, then you have a tuner that has no passion and doesnt care for your cars safety and longevity. I know this is going to get some flack but the people ive dealt with have never had such issues, because they take the time to set safety parameters - not just pump out the most KW or NM because "haha car go vroom 1 second faster" and then kak out when you pull into your driveway.
Again - not aiming this at anyone, i was unaware of this and thanks for that info nonetheless. only kak part is, is this wasnt OPs issue :(
 
Its a 2011 Audi A4 2.0T. I'm actually trying to narrow down a issue with the radiator fans that stays on at 100%, and even goes on when you just open the door without the engine running. I've found threads where Golf 6 GTI's (same EA888 Gen 2 engine as my car) had similar issues after being tuned, so I thought before spending more money on replacing fan relays and sensors, or sending it to the Auto Elec, I'd try my luck to get the original software flashed back - and why a "retune" back to stock power won't do; since that will carry over existing corruption in the file.

I had this exact issue on a 2011 A5, it was the fan control module (can't remember the exact name) It was replaced and the issue was resolved. I think it actually sits in the radiator fan assembly if memory serves.

My mechanic is a bit far from Cape Town unfortunately. But if you want to chat, PM me and I'll forward on his details.
 
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