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CNC - Build Logs

M@tree2

CUD has me already.
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Hi All, as promised in the other thread here's the start of the build log and research log.

Frame materials:
20x20 T/V Slot aluminium 20x80
20x80 T/V Slot aluminium 20x80
Corner blocks
SBR16 + SBR16uu open bearings. Supported Linear Rod
MGN12 Linear guide. Linear Guide
Decided against using V wheels as the chatter and wear when milling aluminium becomes an issue, instead, I will be using 2x supported linear rod (Here) for the Y-axis. Then 2x Linear Guides on the X-axis (On gantry).
For linear motion, ball screws instead of lead screws, much less backlash.
Ball screws do require custom mounting solutions though, so the standard openbuildsCNC machines make use of lead screws and anti-backlash nuts, ball screws also have an efficiency of 90+%, whereas lead screws have a 10-80% efficiency.
Yes, ball screws do require more maintenance, but overall will provide a much better motion transfer.
I haven't quite got to designing the Z axis yet, time has been a little thin.
Proprietary laser cut steel plates as well, for extra stiffening.

Electronics
3x Nema 23 112mm or one smaller.
1.5KW Spindle + 1.5KW VFD.
Arduino CNC board
Arduino Uno
MKS TB6600 Stepper Drivers
1x12V PSU
MKS CD V10, allows the TB6600 Drivers to be used.

I Will update as I go along.
 
Ended up changing to a large form factor corexy 3D printer...

Sorry about that guys, but to do a CNC Properly would have been well over 20k.
 
Please tell me you're going for a Voron 2.4.

I'm so tempted but don't want to delve into the depths yet.
 
Please tell me you're going for a Voron 2.4.

I'm so tempted but don't want to delve into the depths yet.
Nope, my printer makes that frame look like it's made of spaghetti 😂 .
Based a large portion of my design on the Ender 7's top belt system instead, but am using a 20x40mm t-slot with die-cast brackets, as well as external brackets.

Also, a belt-driven Z-axis poses many large issues, mainly how do you stop the gantry from sliding, even if you make sure the steppers don't disengage after a set time.
Also, accuracy starts to become a concern, based on certain calculations a belt can be worse on resolution, especially if you can't get anything smaller than a 16t pulley for the axis (IMO).
For that reason, I'm using TR8x2 lead screws.
 
sadge.

@OP did you consider closed-loop steppers during your research? It does not seem like they are used much, and I'm curious why.They're expensive sure, but are more accurate and offer better torque and speed.
 
sadge.

@OP did you consider closed-loop steppers during your research? It does not seem like they are used much, and I'm curious why.They're expensive sure, but are more accurate and offer better torque and speed.
I have, and that is my next upgrade for my 3D printer, normal open-loop steppers are starting to get to me...

It's generally just cost that puts people off, to be honest...
 
Time for a resurrection !!
:cool:
@The_ONE @Off-The-Chart
So the challenge this time is to build a decent CNC at a decent cost...
Think I have it right so far, will post some pics later.
Building it on HGR20 linear rail along with SFU1605 ball screws...
1.5KW water-cooled spindle.
MKS 3 axis controller, along with TFT.
TMC2160 Drivers, and Nema 23 x 82mm

Budget, weeeellllll...
CNC
 
Time for a resurrection !!
:cool:
@The_ONE @Off-The-Chart
So the challenge this time is to build a decent CNC at a decent cost...
Think I have it right so far, will post some pics later.
Building it on HGR20 linear rail along with SFU1605 ball screws...
1.5KW water-cooled spindle.
MKS 3 axis controller, along with TFT.
TMC2160 Drivers, and Nema 23 x 82mm

Budget, weeeellllll...
CNC
Yay! Its alive!
 
Also for those of us that are looking for linear rail at a decent-ish price, BearingsOnlineSA, had good service so far (fetching stuff later this week).
I'm using HGR20 on this build, due to stock shortages and being one of the cheaper options out there...
Even though it's roughly the same price as MGN12, it has a double-bearing raceway in the blocks, so doubles the number of contact points in contact with the rail itself.


Edit: More info
Also have had a minor setback today, was planning on using 40x40 V-Slot, but that plan went out the window today.
Instead, I have had to switch to PG40 from ModuASM in PE.
The linear rails use 6mm bolts to mount up, and the standard V slot goes up to a maximum of 5mm, hence the issue...

Edit - Update
Received a quote for CNC machining from a supplier that will remain unnamed, for 10mm aluminium the quote came to R19600...
Another supplier for waterjet cutting, given with 6mm alu quoted at roughly R3500, so going with 6mm aluminium, which should be more than strong enough.
 
Last edited:
Time for another post...
Have had some interesting supply chain issues to deal with in the last few weeks, such as Neotronics promising stock and then delaying that into oblivion (read sometime next year), the Aluminium V slot being out of stock, and a few other little issues. We are back on track though and all of the parts have started to arrive, just waiting on some stuff from Amazon.

First of all, I went with water-jet cutting from a company based out of Stellies, LE70 is their name, super helpful crowd and not horrendously priced, aluminium cuts came out really nicely and more than accurate enough, going to be touching up the aluminium with a soft wire brush for purely aesthetic reasons. This cutting and material ran to a total of around R4500.

Linear rails have been an issue, I have used HGR20 and HGH20CA linear rail blocks for the build, a slight overkill but it's what I could get.
Linear rails from BearingsOnlineSA, awesome crowd to deal with, helpful, and very knowledgeable.
Linear rail blocks are from Amazon, nobody had enough stock in the country to fulfill an order of 16 blocks.

Aluminium profile was from ModuASM based out of Port Elizabeth, I ended up going with a 4040 Heavy profile as this allowed me to space the linear rails further apart than a standard C beam, as well as making the ball screw setup much much easier. This will be fastened to the plates with a 4x M6x20mm screws per side per 40mm profile and then also secured with a 14mm middle screw into the centre hole of the profile.

I also ordered the spindle, a 1.5kw water-cooled spindle from 3D printing store, cause I love water-cooling stuff and it allows for a much quieter spindle, which in a garage is always a good idea.

The machine will be running Mach3 software on a USB motion card from Mantech, Mach3 looks like the best option as I don't feel like hacking Marlin to run a CNC and then hacking about with opensource CNCjs and other programs to run one machine, Mach3 is expensive but it is a very stable platform.

The machine will be bolted to the floor via a table made from 40x40x5mm angle iron with the appropriate lattice and cross bracing.
Now starts the fun parts, building the whole machine from the design into real life, fun seeing all the parts coming together slowly but surely...

*****************************************************************************************************
Parts list:
There are some updated renders in the images folder, but low res.

Let's just say budget overruns have occurred, but as with any project of passion that is likely to happen...
That list does not include some bits and bobs such as screws and some other small stuff, I will include some more details in a later write-up with part numbers, quantity, etc...
 

The blocks to mount the steppers are coming out nicely, 130g each, printed in PETG hence they aren't of the best quality...
Also printed on my large format printer, so 110mm/s, and still took 5 hours.
4 walls and 75% infill, have to be strong.
 
What will the workable surface size be once it is completed?
Workable surface area is (x,y,z) around 750, 750, 180. Will confirm with the design shortly.
Confirmed on the render, it's around 750x750, a little more, but safely it's 750mm.
 
Last edited:
Just an update, managed to cut some plexiglass today and was very suprised at the quality of the cuts!
Super clean, doesn't look it on the video due to the protective plastic, but it's super clean!
Learning more about Mach3 and Fusion360 at the moment and dialing the machine in as we go along!


Dust shoe incoming soon!!!!!
Video snip...
 
Just an update, managed to cut some plexiglass today and was very suprised at the quality of the cuts!
Super clean, doesn't look it on the video due to the protective plastic, but it's super clean!
Learning more about Mach3 and Fusion360 at the moment and dialing the machine in as we go along!


Dust shoe incoming soon!!!!!
Video snip...

just ruined my year, thanx a lot :cry:




j/k

good job on going DIY with this
 
Time for another post...
Have had some interesting supply chain issues to deal with in the last few weeks, such as Neotronics promising stock and then delaying that into oblivion (read sometime next year), the Aluminium V slot being out of stock, and a few other little issues. We are back on track though and all of the parts have started to arrive, just waiting on some stuff from Amazon.

First of all, I went with water-jet cutting from a company based out of Stellies, LE70 is their name, super helpful crowd and not horrendously priced, aluminium cuts came out really nicely and more than accurate enough, going to be touching up the aluminium with a soft wire brush for purely aesthetic reasons. This cutting and material ran to a total of around R4500.

Linear rails have been an issue, I have used HGR20 and HGH20CA linear rail blocks for the build, a slight overkill but it's what I could get.
Linear rails from BearingsOnlineSA, awesome crowd to deal with, helpful, and very knowledgeable.
Linear rail blocks are from Amazon, nobody had enough stock in the country to fulfill an order of 16 blocks.

Aluminium profile was from ModuASM based out of Port Elizabeth, I ended up going with a 4040 Heavy profile as this allowed me to space the linear rails further apart than a standard C beam, as well as making the ball screw setup much much easier. This will be fastened to the plates with a 4x M6x20mm screws per side per 40mm profile and then also secured with a 14mm middle screw into the centre hole of the profile.

I also ordered the spindle, a 1.5kw water-cooled spindle from 3D printing store, cause I love water-cooling stuff and it allows for a much quieter spindle, which in a garage is always a good idea.

The machine will be running Mach3 software on a USB motion card from Mantech, Mach3 looks like the best option as I don't feel like hacking Marlin to run a CNC and then hacking about with opensource CNCjs and other programs to run one machine, Mach3 is expensive but it is a very stable platform.

The machine will be bolted to the floor via a table made from 40x40x5mm angle iron with the appropriate lattice and cross bracing.
Now starts the fun parts, building the whole machine from the design into real life, fun seeing all the parts coming together slowly but surely...

*****************************************************************************************************
Parts list:
There are some updated renders in the images folder, but low res.

Let's just say budget overruns have occurred, but as with any project of passion that is likely to happen...
That list does not include some bits and bobs such as screws and some other small stuff, I will include some more details in a later write-up with part numbers, quantity, etc...

Curious why you went with two linear rails on each side axis?

I've seen most of the popular designs like PrintNC get away with one since they're one of the most expensive parts

Also need updates on what you've been cutting :D
 
Curious why you went with two linear rails on each side axis?

I've seen most of the popular designs like PrintNC get away with one since they're one of the most expensive parts

Also need updates on what you've been cutting :D
Hey man, sorry I've been AFK with things being insanely busy on my side

With regards to most other machines out there, they are built on C beam, and for most things it works out okay using one rail and two blocks.
Start cutting non-ferrous metals or anything very hard, and one rail you will start to notice the distortion along the length of a ~1m linear rail, even if it is HGR20, simple fact is that the machine is bolted together, the rails aren't welded to the aluminium slot as such.
Distributing the load over two helps with this, as well as helps to make the whole gantry structure more rigid, which increases the accuracy of the machine, as less flex means more accuracy and less backlash along the path of the machine.

As for cutting, at the moment I'm away for studies and have been for a while, so not a lot at the moment, but I have plans to do the first aluminium cuts now in June/July as well as a full set of mudflaps for my car, cause why not? (Actually can't get mudflaps for a Fiesta in SA). Have cut quite a lot of flat plastic and 25mm plyboard recently, and everything has come out very clean, but still experimenting with feedrates and learning CAM in Fusion360 is a challenge at times😅.

I am home for the next 6 weeks, so will provide some updates as things progress moving forwards, adding a laser cutter to the machine as well, and then a mist cooling system so I can cut non-ferrous metals and get a better surface finish on plastics.
 
Hey man, sorry I've been AFK with things being insanely busy on my side

With regards to most other machines out there, they are built on C beam, and for most things it works out okay using one rail and two blocks.
Start cutting non-ferrous metals or anything very hard, and one rail you will start to notice the distortion along the length of a ~1m linear rail, even if it is HGR20, simple fact is that the machine is bolted together, the rails aren't welded to the aluminium slot as such.
Distributing the load over two helps with this, as well as helps to make the whole gantry structure more rigid, which increases the accuracy of the machine, as less flex means more accuracy and less backlash along the path of the machine.

As for cutting, at the moment I'm away for studies and have been for a while, so not a lot at the moment, but I have plans to do the first aluminium cuts now in June/July as well as a full set of mudflaps for my car, cause why not? (Actually can't get mudflaps for a Fiesta in SA). Have cut quite a lot of flat plastic and 25mm plyboard recently, and everything has come out very clean, but still experimenting with feedrates and learning CAM in Fusion360 is a challenge at times😅.

I am home for the next 6 weeks, so will provide some updates as things progress moving forwards, adding a laser cutter to the machine as well, and then a mist cooling system so I can cut non-ferrous metals and get a better surface finish on plastics.

Its been 6 weeks pay up son
 

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