I got the kenwood dmx100bt headunit paired with boston accoutics gta 704 amp pushing
70rms to each door and 250rms in bridgemode to sub.
My sr55 boston accoustics are 75rms a side and 5.25 so fits any car. And thr polk audio mm 8 is 250 rms.
What u guys running. Realy wana do sound proofing next but the costs is crazy
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Sound proofing? I assume you mean sound deadening, like STP sheets or similar? It can make a difference, but not as big as some people make it out to be.
What will make a larger difference is actual sound proofing, to block noise from outside the car - for that you need something like MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) which is not cheap at all. Ideally you'd like to do your entire car, or at least the floor, doors and firewall section. That makes a big difference and will turn your car into a far more luxurious drive and improve the sound quite a bit - won't need to listen as loud etc.
Second Skin Audio make a decent MLV, it is called Luxury Liner Pro and if you think sound deadening is expensive, you do not want to know what this will cost.
Some people use sound deadening to try and seal off their doors, I tried this as well, it helps but rather put the money towards proper door pods. The sound deadening is more to add weight to the panels to reduce the resonant frequency to something less audible / less offensive.
A good example is to think of a bell, like this one which can be found at certain stores:
You press the button down at the top which causes the bell to resonate (rings), now if you dampen it by adding a big blob of prestick and try it again, the sound is different. Now you take your fingers and hold the bell to further dampen it, the sound changes even more. This is basically what sound deadening / dampening is actually designed for and meant to be used for.
So I am running a MiniDSP C-DSP, which my phone connects to via a USB to Coax board (stock HU died a few years ago, looking at replacing it with the Pioneer Z5150bt - was considering the A2150 but I think I want Android Auto actually).
Then speakers I have a Morel Ultimo 12 sub, Peerless SLS 6.5 midbass drivers in the rear (front doors do not have any speaker cutouts, would like to do some custom door pods and fit 8" drivers up front) and then some Pioneer 4" co-axials in the dash which will soon be replaced with some Faital 3fe22 full range drivers in dash pods - the Faital drivers are busy clearing customs so should have them later this week then need to ask my friend to help me out and 3D print some dash pods for me.
Amps I have a Precision Power Phantom 900.4 which is used for the midbass and bridged subs and then some 4 channel JBl which is just being used for the fronts which outputs like 75w per channel. I could bridge the JBL as the other 2 channels are not being used, but, 75W is plenty for the fronts and with the Faital will be plenty once again. They can only handle 20w RMS anyways, so no point really. I have some STP sound deadning sheets as well - boot and rear doors.
