3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

[PandaAttack1]

I assume it's still PLA, the bubble's are generally from a high water content in the filament.

So PLA is hygroscopic, absorbs excess moisture and then when you print you will sometimes hear a small "pop" or you will get small filament bubbles.
Pop it in the oven at 50*c for 4 to 6 hours.

Alternatively if it's on every corner, your printer is pushing out too much filament, there is a coast setting, set coast to approximately 0.60mm, it will then coast for the last 0.60mm instead of using the extruder motor to push filament through.

As listed above, that is a good guide too.

Thanks dude will try that.

The blob occurs when a new layer is started. So what the print bed clean, from the first layer where it touches the bed there is a small bloby.

 

[M@tree2]

Thanks dude will try that.

The blob occurs when a new layer is started. So what the print bed clean, from the first layer where it touches the bed there is a small bloby.

Almost sounds as if there is some residual filament being left behind after initial priming...
The Brim should take care of the above though.

So it's not quite elephants foot?
(The first few layers are fatter than the other layers)

 

[AceSwiftShooter]

I require 3 parts printed for a project at work. CPT area.

parts must be strong and be able to handle heat. so whatever material handles heat the best.

If anyone can can assist please PM me.

 

[M@tree2]

I require 3 parts printed for a project at work. CPT area.

parts must be strong and be able to handle heat. so whatever material handles heat the best.

If anyone can can assist please PM me.

PETG is the best bet for heat.

 

[PandaAttack1]

Almost sounds as if there is some residual filament being left behind after initial priming...
The Brim should take care of the above though.

So it's not quite elephants foot?
(The first few layers are fatter than the other layers)

Hmmm, it happens kind of on each layer. Difficult to get a photo with black shiny black PLA on a black print surface. But here is the initial layer:

 

[M@tree2]

Hmmm, it happens kind on each layer. Difficult to get a photo with black shiny black PLA on a black print surface. But here is the initial layer:

Over extrusion, I have the opposite on my printer.
Try reducing your extrusion rate, there are also ridges between your infill lines, if I am correct?

 

[PandaAttack1]

Over extrusion, I have the opposite on my printer.
Try reducing your extrusion rate, there are also ridges between your infill lines, if I am correct?

Ever so slightly, yeah.
Estep adjustment should resolve this? Will go back to the stock estep settings and do a test print tonight.

Thanks for the help bud.

 

[M@tree2]

Ever so slightly, yeah.
Estep adjustment should resolve this? Will go back to the stock estep settings and do a test print tonight.

Thanks for the help bud.

Estep yes, and extrusion rate in your software will fix it too.

In Simplify I have a knob on the right side called extrusion rate, and it works in %, so if you decrease that, so instead of extruding 10mm at 100%, it extrudes 9.5mm, but your EStep is left the same in firmware.

If you are comfortable changing the firmware go for it, else there's extrusion multiplier or extrusion rate.

 

[PandaAttack1]

Estep yes, and extrusion rate in your software will fix it too.

In Simplify I have a knob on the right side called extrusion rate, and it works in %, so if you decrease that, so instead of extruding 10mm at 100%, it extrudes 9.5mm, but your EStep is left the same in firmware.

If you are comfortable changing the firmware go for it, else there's extrusion multiplier or extrusion rate.

I will go back to stock, and in future adjust the profile rather than the printer's actual settings.

I have my first 9hour printing at home now. I am expecting to arrive back with a huge mess. 👀

 

[M@tree2]

I will go back to stock, and in future adjust the profile rather than the printer's actual settings.

I have my first 9hour printing at home now. I am expecting to arrive back with a huge mess. 👀

🙈.
Sandpaper fixes small imperfections.

You are brave for a 9 hour print!

 

[PandaAttack1]

🙈.
Sandpaper fixes small imperfections.

You are brave for a 9 hour print!

Okay, so the default esteps is 93 for an ender 3 pro. I measured and adjusted it when I was having trouble with the snipped nozzle. The result came to 94.25 or something. Guess turning that back down to stock with a working nozzle will solve my problem.

I gathered I am going to be away for at least 9hours from home, mights as well let the printer run. I am printing a cable tray/guide for my extruder. I don't like that is hangs so low over the print bed. All parts needed being printed in one go, I'm not sure how smart that is.

 

[Shampoo1014]

Hope you've got your machine on a decent ups or have checked your load shedding schedule xD

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

 

[M@tree2]

Okay, so the default esteps is 93 for an ender 3 pro. I measured and adjusted it when I was having trouble with the snipped nozzle. The result came to 94.25 or something. Guess turning that back down to stock with a working nozzle will solve my problem.

I gathered I am going to be away for at least 9hours from home, mights as well let the printer run. I am printing a cable tray/guide for my extruder. I don't like that is hangs so low over the print bed. All parts needed being printed in one go, I'm not sure how smart that is.

Yip, that will fix the issue, how did you snip the nozzle?

You can also use the cable stuff the "gaming" ATX PSUs use, that cable sleeving.

 

[Shampoo1014]

@M@tree2 you have some good points about extrusion settings and e-Steps however I just wanted to also point to the possibility of slicer settings.
@PandaAttack1 , what are your retraction settings? From the image you posted a few posts back, it looks a lot like your retraction settings may be out. Printers generally come fairly well calibrated right out of the box and the issue with blobs could be a slicer setting that you need to adjust.
I would suggest printing some retraction tests and dialing in your retraction settings to see if that eliminates the issue.

A note on PLA, as well:
PLA is not terribly hydroscopic. I live down in Durban in an area that has incredibly high humidity and have noticed 0 bubbling or moisture issues in my PLA. I agree that it will absorb water if it's submerged in it or sitting wet for some time however if it is a particularly new spool, you will have probably 0 issues with it. You may need to adjust your printing temps as well, if you are getting bubbling. I remember when I was printing with Mavcon filament, I needed to extrude at around 190 as opposed to CCTree which I print at 220. Big difference.

Even ABS, which I have specifically left out in the open for probably around 2 years has had very little moisture absorbed (And I am telling you, it gets moist here)

 

[M@tree2]

Shampoo1014
Thanks man, always learning something.

I live in EL, so also have moisture issues down here, find it's more an issue with PETG than anything else I have used.

 

[Shampoo1014]

Shampoo1014
Thanks man, always learning something.

I live in EL, so also have moisture issues down here, find it's more an issue with PETG than anything else I have used.

I completely agree there actually. PETG I have also had issues with moisture. Try Nylon xD Moisture is your absolute enemy. PVA is also a mission with moisture.

With regards to eSteps, you generally set them once. If you are needing to change them, then there is another issue somewhere. Whether that is due to retraction, filament, a mechanical issue (Could be your extruder tension), etc. The likelihood of it being the eSteps giving an issue off a fresh printer is highly unlikely.

Always nice to have new people in the industry and I agree, we are always learning haha.

 

[M@tree2]

I completely agree there actually. PETG I have also had issues with moisture. Try Nylon xD Moisture is your absolute enemy. PVA is also a mission with moisture.

With regards to eSteps, you generally set them once. If you are needing to change them, then there is another issue somewhere. Whether that is due to retraction, filament, a mechanical issue (Could be your extruder tension), etc. The likelihood of it being the eSteps giving an issue off a fresh printer is highly unlikely.

Always nice to have new people in the industry and I agree, we are always learning haha.

Just bought a role of PVA, it's sitting in a bucket with lots of that silica stuff to absorb moisture...

Are you running a dual extruder?

 

[PandaAttack1]

I completely agree there actually. PETG I have also had issues with moisture. Try Nylon xD Moisture is your absolute enemy. PVA is also a mission with moisture.

With regards to eSteps, you generally set them once. If you are needing to change them, then there is another issue somewhere. Whether that is due to retraction, filament, a mechanical issue (Could be your extruder tension), etc. The likelihood of it being the eSteps giving an issue off a fresh printer is highly unlikely.

Always nice to have new people in the industry and I agree, we are always learning haha.

Thanks for your thoughts Shampoo.

Retraction is default in Cura, 5mm at 45mm/s iirc. I upped it to 6mm on my last print, and the print and a line missing and no stability.

 

[Shampoo1014]

@PandaAttack1 go and have a look at some of the popular YouTube channels and see what they are running at. The defaults aren't always the best settings. I don't have an Ender (yet) so I can't comment on the best settings I am afraid but generally with a bowden setup, you need to have more rather than less retraction. What could be happening is that you have too much retraction so the filament doesn't get out of the nozzle in time to start the next layer.
I suggest Maker's Muse, Thomas Sanladerer and CNC Kitchen for research. They are immensely helpful and provide excellent advice.

@M@tree2 , we do have a dual extrusion printer but I just haven't had the time to sink my teeth into it yet, unfortunately. We are too busy building new printers and expanding on our business xD
PVA is not too bad to print with if you keep it dry. Silica will do well but I suggest also doing your baking idea before printing anything large with it.

 

[M@tree2]

@PandaAttack1 go and have a look at some of the popular YouTube channels and see what they are running at. The defaults aren't always the best settings. I don't have an Ender (yet) so I can't comment on the best settings I am afraid but generally with a bowden setup, you need to have more rather than less retraction. What could be happening is that you have too much retraction so the filament doesn't get out of the nozzle in time to start the next layer.
I suggest Maker's Muse, Thomas Sanladerer and CNC Kitchen for research. They are immensely helpful and provide excellent advice.

@M@tree2 , we do have a dual extrusion printer but I just haven't had the time to sink my teeth into it yet, unfortunately. We are too busy building new printers and expanding on our business xD
PVA is not too bad to print with if you keep it dry. Silica will do well but I suggest also doing your baking idea before printing anything large with it.

Nice, I'm busy with mine.
The SKR V1.3 is such a pretty board, well constructed.
Dual extruder is just a pain to setup though 😂.

 

[PandaAttack1]

Hope you've got your machine on a decent ups or have checked your load shedding schedule xD

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

SO, failed print...

 

[M@tree2]

SO, failed print...

Stage 6 potato communism didn't help...

 

[PandaAttack1]

Stage 6 potato communism didn't help...

The weekend was fine, cause the power went off when I was home. I immediately moved my z-axis up so the hotend gets away from the workpiece. When power came on I resumed print and all was good.

However, today the hotend stopped and cooled on one of the links I was printing and took the print with it when returning to home. RiP.

 

[valiente]

When your slicer says the print will take 24 hours but you only have patience for 16...

Cura @110mm/s

Also realized that when printing this fast, the initial slower layers causes the estimated Print TIme Left to be stupidly incorrect (Yes, that is 50 hours):

 

[BLaaR]

SO, failed print...

Had two or so prints interrupted, resume print worked pretty well. Was hard to tell where the print resumed. So not to worried about load-shitting.

 

[PandaAttack1]

Had two or so prints interrupted, resume print worked pretty well. Was hard to tell where the print resumed. So not to worried about load-shitting.

I was also okay, but many small parts on the same bed in this dire times seem to be a bad idea. xD

 

[AAAH NUUU BRU]

Yea im putting off doing large prints in case, it sucks :/ got 4 17-20 hour prints to do and cant

 

[M@tree2]

Guys, my printer runs on a 400w UPS just fine.
Given I'm running a 350w 24v supply.
Hook that up to a deep cycle battery and you are A for away.
I have done some quick maths, one deep cycle on the UPS can do at least 6 hours before reaching 80% capacity on the battery.
Feel free to check my maths, but even if I'm out, it's still fine for at least stage 2.

@PandaAttack1
@AAAH NUUU BRU

 

[Riekielouw]

Anyone that could maybe assist?

Im looking for a design that can be printed, that would hold my 2x Dota 2 Aegis of Champions collectables and maybe an nice dota 2 logo on it.

 

[BLaaR]

Anyone that could maybe assist?

Im looking for a design that can be printed, that would hold my 2x Dota 2 Aegis of Champions collectables and maybe an nice dota 2 logo on it.

Like a display stand / box behind a glass window ?