Always, always open the file in either 3D Builder (win10 store) or Netfabb first to check for errors. You would be surprised as to the tiniest errors that can just throw the whole print.
I agree on bed levelling. What I do is level too close and then use my slicer to offset the nozzle by 0.05mm steps. Sometimes down to 0.02 to be sure. That way I have now gotten the perfect first layer every time. Also, remember to level your bed when the nozzle and bed are hot due to expansion and contraction. Never touch BuildTak with the nozzle. Will ruin it.
In terms of bed adhesives, I have tried it all. Hairspray, ABS juice, BuildTak, sanded glass, kapton tape, masking tape, blue painters tape; but none compare to what I'm currently using. Two tablespoons of wood glue to a cup of water. Mix it up really good, use a paintbrush and when your bed is cold; paint it on.
I've done maybe 100h of printing on this one layer and I'm still getting perfect adhesion every single time with absolutely 0 warping whatsoever. Put the mix into a sealed jar and you're good to go. The benefits of this mix is that it's water soluble which means that when you take your prints off the bed, you wipe them down with water and the bottom will have a mirror finish if you've leveled correctly. Also, unlike abs juice, you can very easily get it off your bed when it starts building up by simply slapping your build plate in the dishwasher or some hot soapy water. Comes off like a charm.
In terms of using ABS to print, I don't completely avoid it because there are times when it's needed for certain things. For example, I print primarily in PETG (thanks
@Mister Wobbles) and PLA however PLA doesn't withstand high temps and PETG has a lot of flex for thinner parts so in that case I might use ABS as a last resort. I don't like it but it does work. There's a reason that it's been the second most popular filament for years.
Just kind of letting my brain ooze here so I'm sorry for rambling.
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