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3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

I didnt get it from AMS. The store I got it from did offer to collect and fix it. However I did open and try to fix it myself so doubt it would be covered under warranty. From all the costs I did pay to try and fix it I thought it would be better to get a new one and start again. The new machine is working like a dream!
contact AMS they import those machines, they will be able to assist
 
Would anybody like to swap filament? I've got some sealed Verbatim ABS (Red, Green and Clear)
All are still sealed. Willing to swap for anything you might have.
 
I was browsing around for a fender eliminator or tidy kit for my S1000R. Everything was either too expensive or out of stock. After looking at a few options I realised how easy it could be to print!

I love this hobby!

915rZZx.jpg


edit: It is printed with PETG on an Ender 3 Pro. The bracket mounts to the bikes rear fender, and the 2 blinkers is attached to the bracket. Hopefully it lasts around a year.
 
Put in a glass bed (didn't realise it was so cheap, like R20 for the CR-10s Pro) and some more goodies that needs installing. I'm really impressed with the glass, wow! Once that first layer sits it is ON there.

IMG_3719.jpg

IMG_3727.jpg
 

Be careful with that Micro swiss, unless you need higher temps, it screws up what were close to perfect settings, especially PLA and stringing.
Took me 2 weeks of fine tuning before I got a updated profile that I was happy with. (Also CR10s-PRO)
Also now all your old nozzels are useless( if you have), this uses the MK8 standard (same as the non pro/ender 3)
 
Be careful with that Micro swiss, unless you need higher temps, it screws up what were close to perfect settings, especially PLA and stringing.
Took me 2 weeks of fine tuning before I got a updated profile that I was happy with. (Also CR10s-PRO)
Also now all your old nozzels are useless( if you have), this uses the MK8 standard (same as the non pro/ender 3)
I read about the changes yeah. Will have to thoroughly test. If it messes me around I'll put back the old one.

About the nozzles, that is part of the reason I wanted a different hotend. The Pro nozzles are the odd ones out and sometimes finding them is a massive pain in the butt. Nobody locally has any spares left so I had to order some from Banggood.

Also, don't the all metal hotends have a lot lower likelihood of clogging?
 
Also, don't the all metal hotends have a lot lower likelihood of clogging?

It depends, I ended up with clogging on my wood filament (it ended up I was setting it too hot)
Bigger issue for me is the consistency with PLA (specifically stringing) I still have strings.
I'm not sure all metal hotend and bowden are a match for PLA, but I have stuck with it for nozzle options as you mentioned.
 
It depends, I ended up with clogging on my wood filament (it ended up I was setting it too hot)
Bigger issue for me is the consistency with PLA (specifically stringing) I still have strings.
I'm not sure all metal hotend and bowden are a match for PLA, but I have stuck with it for nozzle options as you mentioned.
Awesome, thank you for the headsup. I might have to bug you once I've installed to help with getting the prints looking good again.
 
Put in a glass bed (didn't realise it was so cheap, like R20 for the CR-10s Pro) and some more goodies that needs installing. I'm really impressed with the glass, wow! Once that first layer sits it is ON there.

View attachment 59805

View attachment 59806
try printing on lokbuild, never needs hairspray, and even abs battles to come loose, no warping on abs either, on my 10s pro im still using the stock build plate, i prefer it over glass
 
I read about the changes yeah. Will have to thoroughly test. If it messes me around I'll put back the old one.

About the nozzles, that is part of the reason I wanted a different hotend. The Pro nozzles are the odd ones out and sometimes finding them is a massive pain in the butt. Nobody locally has any spares left so I had to order some from Banggood.

Also, don't the all metal hotends have a lot lower likelihood of clogging?
all metal hot end and pla doesnt play nice together, wgat i found for cheap nozzles, printordie.co.za has/had a cr-x clone hotend, that is a straight fit, and uses ender 3 nozzles
 
Anybody in the Cape Town Northern Suburbs area with an Ender 3 or Ender 5 that would be able and willing to assist with debugging a faulty screen?
 
Anybody in the Cape Town Northern Suburbs area with an Ender 3 or Ender 5 that would be able and willing to assist with debugging a faulty screen?
Whats wrong with the screen? Not possibly firmware related? Tried flashing a new or existing Marlin perhaps?
 
Whats wrong with the screen? Not possibly firmware related? Tried flashing a new or existing Marlin perhaps?
I hope it isn't firmware. Bought a 2nd hand unit from a guy here on Carb. Screen was working before shipping, but after assembly on my side the screen just stays white. Clicking the button/knob still makes the sound so I don't think it is the mobo. I'm thinking the ribbon cable or the screen.

When you switch it on you briefly see something that could very well be the Ender logo, but then it goes all white and stays that way.

Drove out to stellies for a replacement cable but the guys at Micro Robotics didn't have the right cable. The one listed as in stock on their site is, erm, not the right cable.
 
I hope it isn't firmware. Bought a 2nd hand unit from a guy here on Carb. Screen was working before shipping, but after assembly on my side the screen just stays white. Clicking the button/knob still makes the sound so I don't think it is the mobo. I'm thinking the ribbon cable or the screen.

When you switch it on you briefly see something that could very well be the Ender logo, but then it goes all white and stays that way.

Drove out to stellies for a replacement cable but the guys at Micro Robotics didn't have the right cable. The one listed as in stock on their site is, erm, not the right cable.
USB flash the firmware and see if it helps any. Maybe even a bootloader issue. You can try reflashing that too. You got nothing to lose I reckon. If it's not a loose cable, it's highly unlikely a cable would get damaged during transport. Dislodged...possibly...but, considering those cables aren't exactly exposed as such, I just can't see how they would be damaged.
 
Also - perhaps look at Octoprint - gives you more granular control and options.
I'm using octoprint on my CR10s Pro, quite nice, just have to figure out how to fine tune Z offset when printing has commenced.

Will octoprint work to initiate the leveling procedure?
 
I'm using octoprint on my CR10s Pro, quite nice, just have to figure out how to fine tune Z offset when printing has commenced.

Will octoprint work to initiate the leveling procedure?
How do you initiate leveling? Send through a STL file for bed leveling?

Octoprint repository has tons of bed leveling plugins from what I recall.
 
How do you initiate leveling? Send through a STL file for bed leveling?

Octoprint repository has tons of bed leveling plugins from what I recall.
add g29 to your start gcode after g28

or you can add m420 s1 z2 after g28 and it will read the previous g29 mesh and use that as the bed mesh
 
I hope it isn't firmware. Bought a 2nd hand unit from a guy here on Carb. Screen was working before shipping, but after assembly on my side the screen just stays white. Clicking the button/knob still makes the sound so I don't think it is the mobo. I'm thinking the ribbon cable or the screen.

When you switch it on you briefly see something that could very well be the Ender logo, but then it goes all white and stays that way.

Drove out to stellies for a replacement cable but the guys at Micro Robotics didn't have the right cable. The one listed as in stock on their site is, erm, not the right cable.
is it plugged into aux 3?
 
Would anybody like to swap filament? I've got some sealed Verbatim ABS (Red, Green and Clear)
All are still sealed. Willing to swap for anything you might have.
I do not have anything to swap you but if the price is good I can buy it from you.
 
there is a new z probe plug in, havnt used it yet
Ooooh, I figured something like that should exist. I'll have a look if I can find it. If you come across it, lemme know :D

add g29 to your start gcode after g28

or you can add m420 s1 z2 after g28 and it will read the previous g29 mesh and use that as the bed mesh
Thanks for those hints. I've been trying to find the damn Octoprint wiki, but it looks like they moved it. Just checked now again and they have finally put in a link to their community forums, which is better than nothing.

is it plugged into aux 3?
It was yes. An update on this: found a replacement screen kit. Cable turned out to be fine, but the screen was buggered. New screen works just fine. Just need to detach old screen and drop in new one.

I do not have anything to swap you but if the price is good I can buy it from you.
Not too keen to sell unfortunately. I cannot print with money :p and if I have money the minister of finance will lay claim to it. Swapping avoids all such difficulties.
 

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