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3D Printing.. where you guys at!!!

ReaperST said:
And excluding.

Same price as automotive spray filler. Just need to test the automotive one

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Click to expand...

Well, this guy recons primer / filler works "well enough".

Problem is you can't really fill the gaps with small detail prints, example D&D / boardgame mini's but for large parts maybe give the primer / filler a try.
 
BLaaR said:
Well, this guy recons primer / filler works "well enough".

Problem is you can't really fill the gaps with small detail prints, example D&D / boardgame mini's but for large parts maybe give the primer / filler a try.
Click to expand...
Problem is finding that filler/primer here. Only place I have seen it is the one you linked

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Did my first print in awhile. Petg upgrade printer parts. Mk3 to Mk3s. The rest of the parts shipped from Prusa on Friday hopefully I get them today.

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Finally done. Had to print the left arm again as I was not happy with the supports and the amount of ugly surface caused by it. Did a dry fit so now I need to dome some post print cleanup before glue / painting. Pretty big model. Scaled it 50% down from the original , yet it is still just over 20cm tall.

Not sure if it i due to the color, but the right lower leg was printed with Wanhao filament. To me it looks much smoother than the e-SUN used. (white / grey)

EDIT : Left lower leg I mean.




 
Last edited:
Looking insane!! I also find my cctree prints smoother than esun. Was a little disappointed by my esun PLA+ to be honest. Maybe it's just first impressions because I'm so used to cctree.

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Has anyone tried XTC-3D? just finishing up with a print now that i would like to smooth but it has allot of fine detail.
 
Reavs said:
Has anyone tried XTC-3D? just finishing up with a print now that i would like to smooth but it has allot of fine detail.
Click to expand...
It's like fiberglass resin. You have to coat it extremely thin. But you will most likely lose some detail

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This one is starting to frustrate me. Support won't generate for the hair and if you do it manually it goes straight through the thin bits.

58895
 
Reavs said:
it prints okay up to those twists in the hair then breaks them off. Think this one might only be possible with an SLA printer. The only other thing i think of is to scale it up.
Click to expand...
What kind of size are you looking at? Total height?

I think that you could print it but only using custom supports. Your might need to change to a smaller nozzle as well. Maybe .3 or .2 and get your retraction dialed in really well. Thin parts pike that are always an issue.

Another thing you could do is use tree supports. They're more finnicky but they work well if you take some time with them. Otherwise build your own supports in using standard shapes in 3D builder.

What you could also try is cut those whisps off and print her without the hair and then print the hair separately. That way if the hair fails, you can try again without having to reprint the whole part.

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Shampoo1014 said:
What kind of size are you looking at? Total height?

I think that you could print it but only using custom supports. Your might need to change to a smaller nozzle as well. Maybe .3 or .2 and get your retraction dialed in really well. Thin parts pike that are always an issue.

Another thing you could do is use tree supports. They're more finnicky but they work well if you take some time with them. Otherwise build your own supports in using standard shapes in 3D builder.

What you could also try is cut those whisps off and print her without the hair and then print the hair separately. That way if the hair fails, you can try again without having to reprint the whole part.

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Click to expand...

Thanks, i'll give tree support another try. The supports that do work are a pain to remove. You just breathe on it and it snaps the end bits off. I can't recall now but that piece is roughly 10cm tall
 
Shampoo1014 said:
What kind of size are you looking at? Total height?

I think that you could print it but only using custom supports. Your might need to change to a smaller nozzle as well. Maybe .3 or .2 and get your retraction dialed in really well. Thin parts pike that are always an issue.

Another thing you could do is use tree supports. They're more finnicky but they work well if you take some time with them. Otherwise build your own supports in using standard shapes in 3D builder.

What you could also try is cut those whisps off and print her without the hair and then print the hair separately. That way if the hair fails, you can try again without having to reprint the whole part.

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Click to expand...
Definetly learnt some stuff through this post lol.

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Shampoo1014 said:
Always happy to help!
@Reavs let me know if you need some more help :) Got a resin printer if you want to print some of the parts.
Click to expand...

Thanks will do. Went to get some plastic filler and primer from the hobby shop, so i'm now ready to slice that print up into 10 pieces if i need to. Resin printer is next on my list.
 
Reavs said:
Thanks will do. Went to get some plastic filler and primer from the hobby shop, so i'm now ready to slice that print up into 10 pieces if i need to. Resin printer is next on my list.
Click to expand...
Plastic filler? From what hobby shop? I'm struggling to find so I'm using automotive body filler

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I use wood filla xD Works pretty well when it dries. I've already used resin with great success

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Xormac said:
What resin did you use, and from where?


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I actually use a resin that I am prototyping for my resin printer; so it cures in sunlight. You can use any poly resin though. It would work just as well. Prepare to get messy though.
 
Reavs said:
Tamiya putty from Jix hobbies in Menlyn.

image_2211.jpg
Click to expand...

Yip also using Tamiya.

Oddly the putty works great, but the glue from Tamiya does not work at all. Guessing becuase PLA is different type of plastic from model kits. @Shampoo1014 directed me to Q-bond. Only problem is you have no chance to move the parts. Once contact is made its done. No turning back.

So lately I have been using Bostik (lyk soos geel snot). That way I can still manipulate the part in the posistion I want. Then I leave it over night. The next day I perma glue it with Q-bond by letting it run into the small gaps using a toothpick. Or sometimes I just pour from the bottle. lol
 
BLaaR said:
Yip also using Tamiya.

Oddly the putty works great, but the glue from Tamiya does not work at all. Guessing becuase PLA is different type of plastic from model kits. @Shampoo1014 directed me to Q-bond. Only problem is you have no chance to move the parts. Once contact is made its done. No turning back.

So lately I have been using Bostik (lyk soos geel snot). That way I can still manipulate the part in the posistion I want. Then I leave it over night. The next day I perma glue it with Q-bond by letting it run into the small gaps using a toothpick. Or sometimes I just pour from the bottle. lol
Click to expand...

I had the same experience with Humbrol glue. Switched to superglue and buggered up a 32 hour print by not aligning it properly. I've started adding dowels to prints for better alignment. Next I'm going to try and create sort of a bevel between connecting parts.
 
You guys need to git gud with Q-Bond ;) But in reality, as long as you use Cyanoacrylate you will be okay. That stuff is possibly the best to use. It actually gets hot when curing so it fuses layers together very well. I have even dunked a whole print in the stuff before and that is next level xD
 
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