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[Buildlog] DIY 3d printers

Arphaxad_23

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A little background of myself, I’m a avid hobbyist in all things CNC. Simply love it! My long term goal is to diy build not only 3d printers but also cnc wood router, cathode tube laser cutter, cnc plasma cutter and a cnc mill. My journey started back in sept 2015 when I bought my first 3d printer, a clone i3 kit from DIYElectronics. Assembled the kit and got the printer up and running fairly quickly.

One of the first successful functional parts I printed was a filament spool holder (sadly it broke a few months ago, but just shows you how durable PLA truly is.)
Also printed a box to hold rifle casings while reloading. This is still in use this to date!
MD5WuKJ.jpg


With that being said, boy did I struggle with this printer. I never could get prints running for more than a hour or two and then the extruder would grind the filament to bits because the nozzle would just clog up.I gave up and left the printer stashed in the corner of the room and occasionally tried to tinker with it and getting it to work properly. No luck.

Fast forward to Jan 2017 where I finally pulled the trigger and imported a genuine E3D v6 hotend with a titan extruder. It was very pricey, but wow...what a difference that made. Never had a clogged hotend again!
But the poor little printer is still not perfect, especially the heat bed. Its 12V and takes ages to reach 60-70 deg (could never reach 80 deg). A bit of investigation showed the board has way too high resistance and it simply will never draw the rated current. I even considered a external mosfet to switch 24V to the bed, but that won't help much.

The journey did not end there and I‘m not a fan of the cartesian style printers.
Off into the research rabbit hole I went. I decided that a coreXY system sounds great (build plate that moves as little as possible makes sense to me).I decided to venture off and start sourcing parts for a Hypercube Evolution diy printer and printed the parts needed(all in PETG).

Fast forward yet another year (wow time goes by so quickly) I have all the printed parts, mechanical parts, electronics and now only assembly is required.
But wait...that's not the end. I also sourced parts for a second printer. This one is called Voron 2, which uses linear rails and quite an interesting auto leveling procedure. It's also based on Klipper firmware not Marlin and I can't wait to play around with it.

I want to document and share the building process with you guys!

Oh yeah, I also bought a Ender 3 Pro early in jan (esih...CUD)

TLDR; Have a small i3 clone printer that I will upgrade and use to print the ABS parts needed for the two new coreXY style printers I am building. So yeah...I'm documenting my progress here.Stay tuned for updates.

Edit: Added the pic of the casing box. One of my very first prints!
 

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Ok, first order of business. I need to upgrade my clone i3 to enable me to print ABS.
PETG is not rigid enough as I thought initially. I will keep the HEVO parts in PETG for the meantime, but want to print the Voron parts in ABS.

The new x-carriage to mount my E3D titan aero extruder, pancake stepper and inductive sensor for mesh bed leveling.
qwmPuTC.jpg


Here is the aluminum build plate with a 230V silicone heater that will help me to reach the desired 100 deg temps you need for ABS.(I hope at least)
xBbeidd.jpg
aSi22of.jpg


Things on my TO-DO list for the clone i3:
  • Alternative filament spool holder
  • New x end stop bracket. The new x-carriage hits the side before triggering the end stop.
  • Setup Octoprint with klipper on a pi and start testing it on the clone i3 (maybe)
  • Getting a cam for the pi to remote monitor the printer (maybe)
 

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//snip
  • Getting a cam for the pi to remote monitor the printer (maybe)

This is very simple, if you using OctoPi/OctoPrint then any Webcam does wonders - Some reverse proxy magic and I can monitor my Print from anywhere in the world

* The view right now of a completed print from last night
50124
 
Update on the clone i3:
Printed the stand alone enclosure for the ramps and LCD. Slight issue with the ramps/atmega not fitting on the printed stand-offs of the enclosure. I'm sure hot glue will fix it😅

Another thing I should do is to properly calibrate the Ender 3 x,y&z axis step/mm. I did calibrate the extruder steps/mm, correct filament temps and flow. I'm still not happy with the overall dimensional accuracy of the prints. In the past (with the clone i3) I sent fixed (say 50mm) movements through Repitier-Host to the printer and measured the actual distance moved. But I'm thinking to just print a 20x20 cube, measure actual dimensions and change steps/mm accordingly. Thus test all three axis at once! Any tips?
(Prints shown are eSUN PLA at 0.2mm)
1c1UlHO.jpg
SE8aiQS.jpg
 

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Hmmm I really should install my Pi Zero W in my MK3.

Strength to you wish I had the skill to build my own printer
Thank you! Yeah do it, I've only installed OctoPrint on the pi3 to test....and wow, quite nice! I will add one on all the printers!
 
Update on the HEVO:
All the parts I sourced last year. I will be installing a smoothieboard for the HEVO, I'm interested in the smoothieware firmware how it will compare to the well known marlin.
vH9obcD.jpg


And here are the printed parts. All in PETG and was printed on the clone i3. Not happy with all of the parts as I printed with supports (which I didn't need...guess you have to learn the hard way) and can't remove them cleanly🙈
pSoTDqX.jpg


The beginnings of the frame taking shape. This HEVO will have a 300x300 bed and a z-height of 400mm. The reason I like this kind of setup is the bed only moves (very slowly) in the z direction, thus no sudden or quick movements on the print bed itself. Less disturbances on the models being printed.
fWfWI79.jpg
28br9pV.jpg


The frame is 3030 profiles and the bed will be on a 2020 base structure. Think this setup will be super rigid.
WfspeGH.jpg


Notice the clone i3...those horrible LCD mounts, those filament holders kept together with insulation tape:p
CPDKh4E.jpg
 

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Hmmm I really should install my Pi Zero W in my MK3.

Strength to you wish I had the skill to build my own printer

From the OctoPrint site:
"Please note that the Raspberry Pi Zero W is not recommended since severe performance issues were observed, caused by the WiFi interface when bandwidth is utilized (e.g. the webcam is streamed), negatively impacting printing results. "

Should be OK if using wired network or not using a webcam?
 
Update on the clone i3:
Decided I will simply mount everything on a piece of wood, leaving enough space to later enclose the printer alone and have most of the electronics on the outside.
(And decided to ditch the printed enclosure for the ramps and just screw all to the wood board)
HbIoYJS.jpg
exW1Bf1.jpg


With this I designed a few brackets to screw down the printer to the wood. I think it worked out great.
XYluUVg.jpg


I also printed a random x-endstop bracket I found. Works perfect for what I need at this time, although the screws split the printed part a bit 😅
bLbxZfP.jpg


Printed a cable chain for the x-carriage wiring. I love clean organized looking stuff, this now needs to be integrated into the x-carriage since there are no dedicated mounting points.
Mmm...need to still think of an adequate solution.
kL6eD5c.jpg


I found this cool little pcb that have a 6-35V (I think) input and a set 5.1V output with a usb port. Works great for the Pi since I don't have to bother with the bulky psu. (or rather getting another 230V outlet for the printer)
wbchyMy.jpg
 

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I found this cool little pcb that have a 6-35V (I think) input and a set 5.1V output with a usb port. Works great for the Pi since I don't have to bother with the bulky psu. (or rather getting another 230V outlet for the printer)
View attachment 51429

Where did you get this lil thing from?
Working on a project that needs a 12v psu, but I would love to not have a huge power brick for it.
 
From the OctoPrint site:
"Please note that the Raspberry Pi Zero W is not recommended since severe performance issues were observed, caused by the WiFi interface when bandwidth is utilized (e.g. the webcam is streamed), negatively impacting printing results. "

Should be OK if using wired network or not using a webcam?
Except it plugs straight into the MK3 Motheboard via the GPIO pins... and runs its own custom flavour of Octoprint
 
Where did you get this lil thing from?
Working on a project that needs a 12v psu, but I would love to not have a huge power brick for it.

You can get it here.
Keep in mind this is only a buck converter for a 5V dc output. This is not a stand alone psu.
 
You can get it here.
Keep in mind this is only a buck converter for a 5V dc output. This is not a stand alone psu.
Meh, thanks anyways.
I need a small something thats 220v to 12v, but can't find anything thatst the size of your pcb etc, which would be ideal.
 
Meh, thanks anyways.
I need a small something thats 220v to 12v, but can't find anything thatst the size of your pcb etc, which would be ideal.

It depends what you need it for. You can have a look at this psu, 100mmx50mm and is 100W.

Or this, but its only 10W. Like I said...depends what you need.
 
Update on the Clone i3:
Small update, not a lot to really take photos of. I configured the klipper firmware yesterday, and it was not that complicated. Now I need to test and tune the settings.
But...a small detour, this morning I was curious if I could get the steppers moving. So after connecting the endstops and stepper I switched on the power....and...disaster :eek:
I accidentally let the magic smoke escape the 5V regulator on the atmega2560 board😢
niEMd1k.jpg


I'm not too sure what caused it at this stage, my suspicion is that it was the endstops that I connected incorrectly. Will investigate further tonight.

Edit: Yup, I'm a noob... just checked the ramps 1.4 schematic and I must have connected the 5V rail directly to GND (These pins are next to each other and the signal pin on the other side...sigh)
 

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Update on the Clone i3:
I replaced the atmega board, will attempt to fix the 5V regulator on the other one eventually.
So this weekend I finished the Klipper firmware setup and calibration. Here are some photos of the results. I still need to get the z height correct, late last night I realized that S3D setting for auto extrusion width causes alot of issues and creates requests that Klipper sees as unusual.
tQo1y2X.jpg
qX8DZxD.jpg
Ebj8VBY.jpg
IVC6tRh.jpg
zKkrjHi.jpg

Here is how the setups looks like currently.
aBGZPI9.jpg
PSc0py7.jpg


I also printed ABS on the printer. Was nice to finally have a bed that can reach 120deg C. Unfortunately I did not take any photos of those prints, only one had minimal warping on the corners. I'm impressed with the results even though the printer was not enclosed.

But all is still not lekker. I'm struggling with first layers, It seems that at a bed temp that high the mesh bed leveling is not always functioning. Had two prints that the first layer was 100% out of maybe two dozen attempts🙈
But that being said, maybe I tinkered too much with firmware settings and inadvertently messed stuff up. Think I should leave the firmware as is, and tune the slicer a bit...and try another one aswell
 

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Here are some pics of PLA prints from the clone i3
Keep in mind that this was a generic profile generated by S3D, I only tuned the extrusion multiplier and temps at this stage.
ZqnXcLe.jpg
mwfWZW6.jpg
n7hg2j4.jpg


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Clone i3 update:
Got the mesh visualizer working with klipper, and sjo...the bed is warped bad. Almost 1mm lower in the corners 🙈
This is the mesh when the bed is at 120deg C.
2RDgMUn.jpg


So I think I might have screwed things up with this piece of whatever it is to retain the bed heat as much as possible.
But in all honesty I think its not necessary with the new 230V heater. This might cause the flimsy aluminum plate to bow when the corners are tightened too much.
ql3Xbjh.jpg


I think I also found the cause of why I cant seem to get consistent first layers. The mounting bracket for the probe is printed in PETG and with a 250deg nozzle and 120deg bed so close to it, it softens enough and the probe droops slightly.
5pBXGP1.jpg
zRyDmG5.jpg


I'm curious, any of you have an idea where I could source 6mm or 8mm aluminum plates in small sizes like these?
Would also like to machine the top to a better tolerance than 1mm
 

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So my suspicion was correct. PETG not suitable for brackets this close to high heat sources. The photos doesn't look that bad, but remember the weight of the probe flexes the bracket quite a bit when its soft.
gLgT3UR.jpg
mTQKcq4.jpg


I managed to print a replacement part with ABS (On a side note that ABS is over 🙈 3 years old)
Will see how things go now, which me luck
ZJChlj1.jpg
amARj15.jpg


For those using Octoprint, I found this app Printoid to manage things with a tablet. Will give it a try and give feedback:)
 

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So my suspicion was correct. PETG not suitable for brackets this close to high heat sources. The photos doesn't look that bad, but remember the weight of the probe flexes the bracket quite a bit when its soft.
View attachment 53289View attachment 53293

I managed to print a replacement part with ABS (On a side note that ABS is over 🙈 3 years old)
Will see how things go now, which me luck
View attachment 53296View attachment 53285

For those using Octoprint, I found this app Printoid to manage things with a tablet. Will give it a try and give feedback:)
Looks like a nifty app, did you at least get the premium version with all the features? :)
 
Looks like a nifty app, did you at least get the premium version with all the features? :)

I will most likely only buy the pro version, but when I eventually get to testing the app I will give my opinion!

At this stage I want to pull out my hair...damn aluminum plate on the clone i3 is too thin and bowed. Cant get consistent first layers:mad:
 
Clone i3 update:
So I'm have quite the interesting adventures trying to print ABS with this machine. So, all info you get on the web suggests that you need an enclose end a lekker hot heat bed to ensure the filament sticks to it nicely. So I build a quick enclosure for the printer this weekend and my results are contradictory to what I read online.
NU1fbJr.jpg

So here are some of the first prints with ABS (note at this stage I did not have an enclosure)
Think the prints are very nice, but could use some more tuning with the top layers. That does not bother me at this stage, I just want to get the parts done. They are more than functional like this.
xwmRTjd.jpg
JB7Xft3.jpg
NjhACoN.jpg
7nlLkKf.jpg


One of the parts came out with a slight warp on one of the corners
QNZqjhO.jpg
 

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Then this happen:
1G8sgBE.jpg


What a horror sight. This was printed with the enclosure for the first half of the print. Eish...my guess is it was just too warm and the parts did not have enough time and correct ambient to cool between layers. I had the front open for the remainder of that print, and it turned out ok.

So with that in mind, I left the front open for the next print and they were simply beautiful🤤
jn1qrNA.jpg
FWIdYvc.jpg


But the "fun" does not stop there. The first layer is still extremely finicky to get working, even with mesh bed leveling. I'm out of ideas how to fix this or where to look for the cause.
And to top it off, this morning I tried to start a print and the bed failed twice to reach 110deg C...give me a break😭
 

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Small update:
Printing the parts for voron comes along nicely (When I eventually get the clone i3 working...sigh)
Well most of the problems seem to be my fault. Remember I said the bed wont reach 110deg, turns out it was the fan I installed for the ramps and pi cooing...the small breeze that managed to get inside the enclosure was enough to work against the puny 150W heater and it wouldn't heat past 110deg.
liEaSwr.jpg


I also got my proper aluminum plates for the beds.
Two 310x310x10mm for the voron v2.1 and hypercube evo and one 230x230x6mm for the clone i3
I also decided to convert my clone i3 to a voron v1.6 once I'm done printing the required ABS parts. By the looks of it all the parts of the i3 can be salvaged and used for a v1.6
RN0RCRX.jpg
wibVdnp.jpg


Now I'm searching for 230V heaters to source locally. DIY have 300W, but I think it might be 'te lig in die broek' for a 10mm thick plate🤔
 

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Hi all. Update on the Voron:
Damn I'm getting excited now...things are taking shape!
The functional parts printed thus far...all in ABS+ (just saying it gives me a smile considering how tricky it is to print ABS)
M96cQK0.jpg


I'm still waiting for a bunch of items to be shipped to SA, but I started assembling what I can.
Here is the X-carriage:
rermJtZ.jpg
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Here is the mounting that holds the hotend:
FWTJ88r.jpg
 

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Here I mounted the fans with that sexy green accent color piece:love:
vh8XmAx.jpg
Oac99Y3.jpg


And wow...the designer of this machine/parts has done such a great job. Highly attentive to small details such as routing ways for the fan wiring.
Dx4k109.jpg
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It looks damn sexy..wow...I'm drooling here 🙈

(sorry for my overly excited nature here...I feel like a small kid getting a brand new bicycle)
 

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Still waiting on parts to arrive...ai, feels like a lifetime 😭

In the meantime, I'm putting together as much of the printed parts that I can.
Here are the gears. Awesome design I must say, its a standard 20 tooth pulley that mounts into a 80 tooth printed part (I think). Anyways, looks good and fits the belts perfectly.
Q1aYcIC.jpg


Cover for the mains plug
JdUHsdG.jpg
 

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Things are taking shape :D
Some of the parts for the XY gantry. Received the 5mm shafts today, so will cut and install them tonight.
P8vg3s5.jpg
UDBP460.jpg


XOJmJIo.jpg
2Dw4ZDy.jpg


I quickly want to explain how the XY gantry work and why I think its nice. The gantry structure is guided in the Z direction with four MGN9 linear rails(one in each corner) and the motion is achieved with four stepper motors and GT2 belts in each corner. Each corner stepper is controlled individually to achieve a leveled gantry with respects to the build plate. No need for stupid mesh bed leveling to be incorporated into the G code (assuming you got a decent build plate that is not warped). The other advantage that I see is the build plate is stationary and fixed to the frame.
Here is a video for those interested to see more

 

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